Stivva

I will get a couple of photos from the supplier and upload them. He doesn't have a website, I originally found him on ebay US, but he does not have anything for sale on there at the moment. Candy33; was that a pair or a front one (or just rear)?

Should clear a 25 with aftermarket plenum... Not sure on factory

I need a 50% deposit on the bars once we get the 11 (plus my 1)

Got the prices on these bulk purchases. The bars like I have are US$160 for a pair (front and rear) or US$85 each The flat style bars (like cusco) are US$200 a pair (front and rear) or US$105 each. Postage is US$180 for 12 strut braces (US$15 per bar) Anyone interested?

I just had my strut brace delivered from the states and I am fairly happy with the product (read; very happy). I have spoken to the guy who makes them and asked if we could do a bulk order (I am going to order another for the rear) but he can do either or both (front and rear). Would anyone be interested in joining a group purchase (save on postage and heaps cheaper than local buys of cusco braces) I have included a picture of mine so you can take a look at the product.

I am flying down to melbourne saturday morning and driving back up that same day, so if anyone has anything to be bought back up, let me know now. I will be in the western suburbs of melbourne for a couple of hours.

RP7 easy fix. Good purchase mate.

You really could buy one in fair condition and drop a 280zx turbo engine in for that price range. Or even import one straight from Japan. Try Yahoo Auctions

How well does this run? Daily drivable or needs work?

Was that the toolkit from ebay?

I love the centre console! For two reasons. First, it looks fantastic, the quality of workmanship looks unreal! Secondly, I now know a Double Din head unit will fit in the space at the bottom, as I had wanted to do something like this (albeit, not as elaborate as your current setup). Keep up the quality work!

I have been continually working on my front bumper, and it starting to look pretty good now. I have also re-alligned my air dam, but the means it doesn't sit properly against the headlight surrounds. I will need to make a serious bracket and stretch it out by bolting it a few places to have it not flap about. Strange that the mould should be so out of shape. Maybe when it was made the resin dried unevenly (?) Anyway, here is a picture of the bar as of now.

Car looks great Dave. Its a great start for a new project. The engine bay looks quite tidy as well, would love to see a few more photos of this beast.

I have made a new switch that triggers the highbeams through the dip on the combo switch and it still passes trough the fuses, so the fuses are OK. I actually think it is the headlight switch itself. But I have taken it apart and cannot find any broken wires or connections. I am trying to grab hold of a new one to test this theory.

I spent a little bit of time out on the garage tonight and last night. I filled the dents in the front bumper bar and gave it a good coat of gloss black and am now doing the same with the over-riders. I then moved onto the looms for the front repeaters and parker lights, which I tore out and replaced entirely. I removed the switches from the steering column and re-soldered the indicator switch wires together (as the centre one had broken, destroying any chance of indicating). But I am still to solve my headlight problem. No headlights, but everything else (dash and tail, and parker) is working. Strange...

I took the guts out of the drivers door this weekend. My window never worked and the lock doesn't either. So I degreased and washed all the parts from inside the door, sprayed some rust kill and covered the inside of the door skin with 'spray on tar'. While looking at all the parts I had removed I found the regulator and 3 or 4 worn teeth and thought that this was the problem, but the tab above the teeth that holds the teeth together and folded back a few mm, so i bent it back reassembled the door and put in some fresh graphite and 'Perfect' the window works, like a brand new car. I can not figure out the door lock though....

Loving the car so far mate. I have run my leads around the side of the engine like yours, but didn't even think to make brackets up that (cable ties), great work. Can not wait to see the wheels finished and the flares bolted on.

I actually have not done the headers yet. I am trying to decide between cast steel, which is a gunmetal colour or the blue grey like pacemakers. I think the cast steel is the way. I know the chrome paint in cans don't hol up to heat very well. But I tend to use brake caliper paint because it's heat proof like engine paint, but is metallic unlike most engine paint.

I will post up a few more photos after the weekend. I am pulling apart the front end panels for realignment. The drivers side of the engine bay for cleaning and painting accessories. Like the alloy on the black parts (alloy paint) and the booster (gloss black). I have also pulled apart the drivers door's guts so that i can fix the window and lock. But I think I need a new regulator for the window. I love the black engine bay, it is a Satin black enamel paint, but it is a 2pac paint (Paint, hardener and thinners). The paint it cheap and flows nicely from any cheap spray gun. It makes everything inside the bay stand out, like the airbox and fittings. I am taking the paint back in the bay to redo it soon (same colour ofcourse).

I gave the manifold a clean and degreaser and then hit it with a cast alluminium spray paint. It is a 90% perfect match to the cast aluminum that they a made with so it looks great and still factory. I hit the engine and wheels with tyre shine before the photos were taken to make them really shine.

The short answer is yes you can paint them with a VHT vin dye. But if the match is not perfect you may have to dye everything else. If you do en up using a dye on other things (plastic) put a coat of clear to hold the colour on the plastic as dye only sets into vinyl, not plastic and will wear off fast.

Nce car. I had a problem with leaking water in the footwell. It turned out to be loose clamps on the hoses and was fixed simply by tightening. Well done so far and I can't wait to see more. I love the new tiller.

The studio is at work in silverwater, but is unfortunately not available for private hire. I was only able to get mine in there for work use and had these Tagged on the rear of the shoot after the other car left. I am always happy to organize a shoot between friends in a publi place or make a push towards getting one your cars into a magazine which would allow you to experience a professional photoshoot. Dumplings and happy birthday for the May 17 club (or whatever date it was)... Lololol Primer is tough, but I am working on paint.... One day.

Just a quick update. A new photo of the engine bay from the studio this morning. I am really happy with the way it is looking at the moment, but with that said I can not wait to strip the paint off it and put down a new coat of smooth satin black in here. Oh, and I really wish I had that strut brace delivered for the photos I had taken this morning, but unfortunately, nothing has shown up in the mail yet. And a car photo for good measure.

I wanted a s30 for so many years and I finally got one. But I guess I have wanted a Dodge Viper since I was about 12 years old. But as for ultimate daily, a 370z would keep me more than happy.