hunterzed

Thanks heaps for that. Not trying to hijack the thread but this helps me out heaps too. Some good savings to be made by getting the right stuff the first time round.

240sx. Or you can checke out kameari in the states for their stroker kits. They do the whole lot with either an LD28 crank or if you're going to race it then you might be more interested in the fully counterbalanced crank or even the 85mm crank for an L32.

If you run L28 block bored .120 with Ld28 crank, L24 rods, KA24 pistons, N42 head and 1mm head gasket you'll have a compression ratio of 11.33:1 and with a 2mm gasket you'll get 10.14:1 with a 3098cc displacement. Thats straight off the engine calculator. With P90 head you can expect around 1.58 drop in compression. As I said though, straight off the calculator.

P90 will drop you compression so you have a larger range of pistons available to fine tune your compression but the N42 head has the largest vavles out of the 2 and is a lot easier and cheaper to modify and get a hold of. To get the same gains out of each head the P90 will cost you more. Most people go for the P90 head to leave them with more options such as a turbo later on. N42 is a better option in my opinion anyway. But everyone has an opinion. Just to qualify my thoughts. I haven't used a P90 head. This info is from some of the other members here, such as PZG302, (his comments found here http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,5835.0.html) that have used both and are now sticking with the N42 head. So take this info for what its worth.

I can relate to that big time. I bought a 280zx by chance and after only having it for 2 months I now have 3 of them plus spares from another doner car. Doesn't this site qualify for ZAA status?

You can get away with using the N42 head on a stroker. Has better flow and larger valves as well. You just need to use the dished pistons and maybe a larger head gasket. You'll have a compression ratio of around 10:1

I just spoke to Brad from Spool again and I'm pretty interested in the RB30 stroker crank now. The kit is going to be around 6-7k total. Not cheap but it'll be a pretty awesome set up. Especially if I use an RB 25 or 26 head on it as well. He has an RB26 head for sale on his site for $5700. A lot of work done to it but I think its a bit too much for what I'm after. I'm chasing a good strong street combination to start with. So I'm thinking that an RB34 would be a good start. The kits won't be available till next year. He has 2 cranks in country at the moment and he is just waiting on some conrods before he builds an engine to test the combination. Gives me time to save up.

I couldn't generate enough interest across a number of forums so I'm now going down a different route engine wise. It'd be pretty cool to keep within the same engine family for this car but I'm now going to look at other alternatives. Thanks for your imput and advice. Cheers.

Thanks for your input guys. As far as tapping into the intake pre turbo for vacuum is that there is no vacuum post turbo. Well not when its under boost anyway. I'm still learning how it all works properly so I can come up with a plan that suits and that I understand myself.

Just thinking about the routing of the hoses. I'd have to tap into the intake pre turbo which isn't a problem but I was thinking about moving some of the vacuum system to clean up the engine bay a bit. The only thing with using a vacuum pump like the one on a diesel alternator is that I'd need to use a storage canister in most cases, especially if I were to use it on a track. The 280zx also uses vacuum for the fan/air con system.

G'day guys, I'm looking to turbo my L28 and one of the things I'm trying to nut out is the vacuum. Has anyone used an alternator of a diesel that has the vacuum pump as part of it to provide the vacuum? There are a number of alternators that will bolt straight on with this attachment. Cheers Steve

The engineering and custom fab in that thing is phenominal. Especially when you see that he has built it in his own shed. I'd love to have the know how and tooling to creat something like that. Not to everyones taste but you can't deny the genious of it.

Talk to the RTA. If your car is regoed then they can match your chassis number to their records and go from there. I'm not too sure of the full process but they shold be able to help.

Weather they work or not isn't in question from myself at least. Just the legalities and what it can mean if something happens. I've also seen them used on off road racing cars where vehicle abuse is a standard thing. lol

Yeah thats some of the stuff that I've heard about them too. Thanks for that spawn. I've been emailing Brad and although he was a bit hesitant to start with he has come around and if there is enough interest then he is happy to take it further. He has also said that if there are some design changes that we'd like to make then we can do that in the tech drawing stage of the process without a drama. I've already put my hand up for 2 of these cranks so we just need to get another 4 or so people that are keen to get one of these and we should be able to convince him to get some made up. I realise that they are not cheap but they would still be much better value than some of the ones on the market at the moment which are few and far between. Here are some pics of the L28 rods that he has available now as well as some pics of one of his cranks and some of the pistons.

If you have an accident and the accident investigation guys or the insurance company prove that you have illegal modification that have contributed to the accident (and this is easier to prove than disprove) then you can be held criminally liable for the consequences of the accident which could include Manslaughter or even murder if you had previous knowledge that the modifications were illegal and did not rectify the problem. If you want to risk this then it is entirely up to you. You have to weigh up if the possiblity of going to jail against the look of your car.

Yeah it would be between 4.5k and 5k for the set. It's Spool Imports that I've been chatting with. Here is the link. I've heard a few good things about these guys but I really don't know that much about them. But they are interested to help develop something if the interest is there. So that is what I'm trying to guage. I'm not trying to make any money out of this just trying to expand our choices with the cars that we love. Here is the link to their web site. http://www.spoolimports.com/default.htm

Brand spanken crank based loosely on the LD28 crank with any modifcations that we need done to it before manufacture such as better oil feed etc.

Ok. Just got an email back. If we get 6-10 serious guys then a 4340 billet crank would cost around $2500 - $3000. Which is a pretty good price when you compare it to others like OS giken.

G'day guys, I've just had an interesting chat to a company that makes after market engine parts that are based here in Australia. If we get enough interested people we might be able to convince them to produce a kit for the L28. They already have a kit for a couple of nissan 4 cylinder engines and they retail for about $3250 with the cranks only $1700 by themselves. The kit includes: Brand new stroker crank 2 piece forged crome moly 'H' Beam rods all ballanced with ARP 2000 fasteners Forged pistons all ballanced and all the rings and pins Like I said. They don't make them yet but they do make L28 'H' Beam conrods and if we get enough interest they might consider making the crank.

The P90A head is only really good if you're going to run boost. Some people like to use them on stroker engines as well to bring the compression down. If you're not doing either of these then there are easier and cheaper ways to get the performance. Ie the N42 head has the larger valves and is much easier to get a hold of (I have 4 of them) and you can get pretty good gains out of them with minimal work.

Well if its a rev related problem instead of a speed related problem then there is something not right with the drive line forward of the gearbox. If it was just a loose exhaust it would happen over bumps and other times at random. Check your harmonic balancer and your gearbox mounts as well. Also check anything that is driven by belts to see if they are out of whack. Where is the noise coming from? Is it up near the gearbox or down near the back of the car. Check all your exhaust mounts as well as shaking it from both the front (at the bottom of the down pipe) and the rear of the exhaust to try to replicate the noise. If all this comes up with nothing then you may need to just make some adjustments on the exhaust until you find the sweet spot again.

Check your engine mounts. Have you noticed that power has dropped or is that still the same?

I was unlucky enough (or lucky depending how you look at it) after racing 4wd's for a couple of years to learn how to fit windscreens myself. You save heaps of money and you know the job is done properly. You need to remember that these guys aren't there to fix your rust problems. They are only there to do the job that you're paying them for. Ie. to fit a windscreen. Most of them wouldn't have the tooling to do minor rust repairs or preventative rust treatments. If you have some concerns when you take it to them then ask them to call you if they find anything that may cause problems and have a plan of attack ready.

This would be about the same effect as spacers. The other thing with this is that you will need an engineers certificate. When I was racing I wanted to run bead locks. (On a 4wd) and you can't put a continuous weld around the entire circumferance of the rim as this will creat a weak point for the rim to crack. The rules don't specify whether you weld on the outer or inner part of the rim. To be honest, your best bet would be to upgrade to 5 stud struts. Much easier to get engineered and will give you way more options for rims. You'll also have way more brake choices as well and not to mention coil over options. If you have an accident with spacers or modified rims you will NOT be covered by insurance. Unless you can keep it real quiet. Might not seam like much to think about but insurance comapanies will look for any way out of paying that they can find. You might beat them but it'll cost heaps in litegation. Just my 2 cents.