hunterzed

I'm not sure if it was ATF that I read about. But it was supposed to descale your fuel lines etc. It may have been on hybridz that I read about it. I know you could just use injector cleaner. It was for a discussion point at work on mythical remidies for cars.

Hey mate. Its coming along nicely. I'll be home this Thursday. I might come for a drive to have a look and bring a couple of presents for you.

Hi guys, I remember something about adding ATF (not sure if that is what it was) to fuel to clean / flush the fuel system and clean injectors. I can't find the tread on it again. Can someone point me in the right direction or refresh my memory on what it is that people have been using in their fuel to clean the fuel system? Cheers Steve

There was a thread on hybridz for these guys with one of the workers from the place that makes them posting up pics. The original was made by his boss for himself and sought interest in production kits on hybridz. It practically has a roll cage incorporated in the shell of the car and is double skinned in most places. The new lamborgini is a complete monocoque composite shell as well with no metal chassis except for some of the mounting points.

Thanks mate. How's the car going? Is it on the road yet?

Hey Mate. Where abouts are you? I might be interested if you're around NSW or you're really good a packaging.

Where abouts are you located. I have 2 that you can take for free. Not sure of their condition. They came out of an '80 and an '82 and have been sitting around for a couple of years. I'm located near Newcastle in NSW.

The car is going to be a street car but not a daily driver. So weight reductions aren't a priority. More about comfort and functionality but I would also like to do something outside the norm on this build. So re-shaping consoles and the dash aren't out of the question and are more along my line of thinking. I'm thinking of grafting in a different dash that has a centre console that moulds into the dash unlike the crap setup that it currently has now. I guess I just need to do heaps of measuring of cars that I like the dash setup and see if I can find something that looks good and will fit without massive modifications.

G'day guys. I'm building up one of my 280zx's and I'm trying to think of some ideas for the interior. It will be driven fairly regularly so it needs to be livable but if you guys have some styling cues and ideas on how to change the interior around that would be great. I'm just talking about colour and seats either. Cheers Steve

Honestly Scotty. If you're after the L28ET then just get this one and change the ECU and engine. You'd be able to get these a lot easier than finding an L28ET already to go in a 2 seater. You should be able to use all of the bolt on stuff that will come on the car already like the manifolds and wiring lume. For a couple of hundred bucks you can get an F54 engine ready to go. You could even as these guys to see if they can source a P90 head to send over with the car if you're worried about compression or just use dished pistons. Have a chat to Simon (luvemfast) about how it is to live with for things like insurance and rego etc. You'd confuse the hell out of the local insurance companies. haha. Just my 2c. Steve

Hey all. Thought I'd start my build up thread for my 1982 280zx. As most of you know my first one saw an untimely end with as part of the recent spate of idiots running into zeds. Its almost been like a contagious disease. Well I did a run down to Melbourne and saw glen and picked up a shiny heart for my new project. I'll get some pics of the shell that I have on my next break but here are my plans for starters. I'm going to eliminate the crome and drip rails around the windscreen and side glass as well as smooth the rear end similar to simon's 280 but with a few differences. As with most I'm still thinking about the rear tail lights. I may just french them in a little to smooth the look. Still thinking of the front end as well. I'd like to come up with a more modern front bumper. I need to jump in the car and go visit Ben at Otomoto as well to chat about some ideas and get some goodies. I'll update this thread as I can and I promise to get plenty of pics as I go along.

It would be fine. As long as it lines up well with the pulley system and that it spins the right way and it should be cool. Just make sure that it is up to your requirements for current draw. If you aren't putting extra accessories on it should be fine.

I guess a bypass tap would work too if was plumbed in properly. Any way here is a link to a guy called dave (twozeds) on the newcastle zeds forum. He's the guy that bought the alloy radiator. http://newcastlezeds.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1264058850 And here is a pic of it fitted in his 260z Steve

13 row should be fine. Depends on where you're mounting it though. I ran one on my 4.2 turbo diesel patrol race truck under the bonnet scoop and it worked fine there.

One of the guys up in Newcastle bought one of the cheaper radiators from the states and says it works a treat but I'd be running an oil cooler as well for your engine but thats just me.

These books are very good. There are one or two typo's in there though like the head stud torques I think is one of them and there are one or two more but they are fairly obvious when you see them.

I got both of those books off ebay. Just a word of advice though. Check their feedback. I had a bit of trouble with a supplier from the states. I had no problems with suppliers from the UK though.

Thanks Scoot3r, I'll be down there in a couple of weeks picking up an engine so I'll have a look then. Steve

Hey Simon, good to see there wasn't too much of a problem with the box. At least you'll be back up and running fairly soon and fairly cheap too. Good luck. Steve

Are you talking about the Crank Angle Sensor sensor?

This link has no doubt been posted before but here is a quick guide to reading your plugs. http://www.xenons130.com/plugs.html Steve

No worries. I must have misread your post. I was under the impression that you thought his figures were low.

As the title says. I'm after the complete rear end from a 5 stud Z31. From the sub frame to the hubs including the brakes and diff. If anyone has one let me know. Cheers Steve

Ohms is resistance so the low numbers are a good thing. The higher the reading the more resistance you have in your leads which means you have less spark being delivered to your plugs.

Check for faults and obvious stuff first before spending the coin. Have a look at the posts on the inside of your dizzy cap for corrosion and wear as well. Clean them up with some emery paper if they aren't worn too much. Otherwise you may need a new cap and rotor. Steve