BobsYourUncle

I think in QLD it's more limited - http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/Registration/Registering-vehicles/The-special-interest-vehicle-concession.aspx

Looking for some advice... Both doors on my '74 2+2 don't seem to fit properly. I've attached some photos to show what I mean. The front top corners (of the window frame) hit the car body when closing. It's like the stainless frame isn't the right shape for the door opening? I was under the impression that the doors were the same shape for all models, is that right?

Any ~35 year old car has the potential to require a bit of ongoing work. That said, this one does look to be pretty well built, has great fuel injection (less fiddling than carbies), and it's (IMHO) a bargain at the current price (I'd buy it, but my wife would leave me).

I'll have to have a look at that - I am still using the rubber hoses. Thanks

Hilux brakes (solid rotor type) are on, with new drilled/slotted rotors. I trimmed the dust shield with an angle grinder to get them on. The car stops very well, there's definitely a noticeable increase in stopping power there, but the peddle is a little soft (to be expected - I'm still running the original master cylinder). It's not too bad, and I'd get used to it, but I may look into upgrading the MC at some point.

I think there may have been some differences on US models, some sort of shock-absorber deal? Or was that the 280z? There's mention of it in my workshop manual I think.

Shouldn't be a problem, I've rego'd a few cars in the last couple of years, and all they've ever wanted is the safety cert and completed forms.

That sucks. Does he work weekends, or do you have to wait until next week?

Wow I've been slack lately (well not really, just been doing other things). Good news though, my car seems to be running MUCH better now. I replaced the coil, leads and spark plugs, set the timing using my new innova timing light (that took so long that USPS must've sent via row boat or something ), and did a bit more adjustment on the flat tops. Running nicely, doesn't seem to be missing any more. The new plugs made a big difference. Also, the tappet noise is way down compared to what it was, so I'm pretty pleased with that adjustment. I did shear off one of the timing cover bolts (why, oh why didn't I use new ones...). I'll have to extract that, and I should probably replace the timing cover gasket while I'm at it. edit: and I've still got no tacho - it moves to around 1000 rpm while cranking the engine, but is dead when the car's running. I guess the inductive loop style tacho doesn't work with electronic ignition...

Don't these spoilers need a brace in the center, which should stop them from flexing too much?

#60, matching numbers? http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=10254682&keywords=240z&tsrc=allcarhome&__Ntk=CarAll&__Nne=15&__Dx=mode%20matchany&__D=240z&silo=1011&seot=1&__sid=129694BF1D0F&__N=1216%201246%201247%201252%201282&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&__Qpb=true&__Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Cr=5&__Ntt=240z&trecs=11

My thoughts exactly! There's not much flywheel left there...

I'll try to help (but I may be completely wrong - most guys here know more about cars than me, and Steve should know the mechanical engineering stuff better). A light flywheel will get to high RPM faster, but it will also slow down faster. It has less weight, and so stores less momentum. You'll need to be faster on gear shifts I guess (assuming you take your foot of the throttle). I wouldn't have though it would affect riding the clutch. Again, I'm quite possibly completely wrong. Also, I suspect a stock flywheel is closer to 15-20kgs, they are a real pain to lift from under the car when you don't have much clearance.

It could have been that one - it looked more like a pastel canary yellow, as per the pics in the earlier for sale thread. Later pics look darker, but I guess that could be lighting/cleanliness.

I spotted a nice looking yellow 2+2 on my way to work this morning driving along Reserve Rd, then turning into Abraham Rd (heading to Brisbane maybe?). Made me wish I was driving mine. Plates were NYC-260 (I think) - anyone here?

Sorry, I knew I could get a timing light from supercheap, but was more looking for suggestions of good brands, and what a good one is. I could've been clearer. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll look them up. Valve adjustment was done after studying the various books I've got and some stuff I found online. I'm pretty confident I did it right. The clearances weren't too bad to begin with, they tended to be only a few thou out. Oh, and at work we export all our stuff to the states, so it's nice to be able to take advantage of the strong dollar every now and then (rather than the other way around).

I looked at the two distributor caps I have, the one currently not on the car looks to be in good condition, so I'll put it back on. I'm going to get a new coil and new leads this weekend, and have a look for a timing light. I'll keep updating this thread...

Great news, my Dad's come through for me on the air bleed restrictors for me triples, so it's only a matter of finding some time to put them on now. I think I should work out my ignition issues first though.

Yeah the way I remember it the twin-turbo 300zx blows them away. 260z second? I think it's on youtube... edit:

No, I haven't. I might have to buy one. Where can I get one? Supercheap?

Ok, here's what I know: It's not the original L26, it's an N42/N42 L28. I don't know how many kms it's done. I've done a compression test - 165-170psi for all cylinders. I set the valve clearances a couple of days ago, 0.008" intake, 0.010" exhaust (cold engine). Thanks for your help. Sorry if I didn't come off as appreciative, I'm just asking questions to learn

I don't, no. IF the carbs were out of sync, would that cause intermittent ignition? As understand it (might be wrong), the front carb supplies cylinders 1-3, the rear 4-6. Doesn't synchronising them just makes the front act the same as the rear? I checked cylinders 1 and 5 with the colourtune, both had the problem.

I've got electronic ignition (and I've tried two distributors). You think it's a weak spark? I'll have to measure the resistance of my leads... edit: picked two leads at random, resistance was ~150 Ohms. At first I though that was large, but I googled and some places say 10-50kOhm is ok. What should they be?

I've bought a colourtune with the intention of tuning with my SUs and (eventually) dellortos. I just tried it out, and noticed that there's often no colour (I can see the spark, but there's no colour to indicate ignition). It happens quite often at low engine speeds, and less often (at least that's my perception) at higher speeds. At idle, when there is colour, it's blueish white, indicating a lean mixture. I figure there's always a spark, so it shouldn't be an electrical problem. When I rev the engine, the colour goes yellow briefly then back to blue, so shouldn't be fuel? Unless the carbies aren't working properly at idle speeds... The engine does appear to rev quite freely, but it's idling rough. I think it's timing. If i loosen the bolt that holds the distributor in place and rotate clockwise, it gets better, but only just. Rotating the other way makes it worse. Am I on the right track? Should I just read up on setting ignition timing? I considered getting a new distributor cap and leads, as the ones I have are a bit old and loose, but there always seems to be a spark... Oh, and the engine was warm. I'm such a newbie...

I posted some of this in my project thread, but I thought I should update this for posterity. I did a compression test, which showed 165-170psi for all cylinders. Had a fiddle with my carbies, it seems they were running quite rich. I'm going to adjust the mixture (bought a colortune), and change the plugs and oil and see how it goes. I took the airbox off, and the gauze where the pipe from the top of the rocker cover (some sort of breather?) joins was clogged up, so I cleaned that. edit: And i think this topic should probably be in the engine forum, whoops...