BobsYourUncle

Thanks guys - I'll have do up a drawing and see if the guys in the workshop here can make me a set.

Anyone?

I've got a query regarding the sleeves people are using to reduce the 2mm air bleed holes in emission dellortos. How long have people been making them? The full length of the hole in the carby? Cut at an angle at each end to fit flush? Or is that going overboard?

Got a delivery today from http://stores.ebay.com.au/alfa1750scarburetorspartsstore. Very good experience, gave me a bulk discount on all the stuff I bought, and was able to supply parts that weren't listed in the store. Highly recommended. Won't be long now my triples are set up

I just bought a bunch of parts and jets from a guy called alfa1750 on eBay US. He gave me a bit of a bulk discount and very reasonable shipping costs. Edit: he also was able to sell me some parts that weren't listed in his store, very helpful. If you want I can pm you what I got and how much I paid. I also need the air bleed reducers, does anyone have a drawing of them? I might be able to get the mechanical guys at work to make some up. 2nd edit: just realised the first post was back in may...

Turns out I hadn't re-connected some of the wiring properly - connector wasn't in far enough. As for the handbrake issue, turns out my rear brakes are stuffed (hadn't checked them since buying the car until now). Drums are at max inner diameter, shoes looks sad. Now I've got to weigh up the pros/cons of new drums/shoes vs rear disc conversion. A simple replacement would be quicker/easier/cheaper, but not as good (how much better? I'm putting hilux (solid rotor) calipers on the front).

heh I need to work on my searching, didn't find those posts last night. Thanks.

I know people here have ordered from these guys before, so maybe someone can shed some light on this for me. Is the only way to contact them via phone? I can't imagine that'd be fun with the timezone difference, especially if they call back in the middle of the (our) night. You can order online, but it'd be nice to be able to check freight prices before committing to an order. How have people gone in the past? How are they to deal with?

Yeah it's hard not being able to drive it. My daily is a 91 lancer, 1.5L auto, very boring...

Cleaned out the garage today, and took the change for a couple of photos. With the sun out (and from a distance), you can hardly see the (many) imperfections (or the fact that it desperately needs a clean ) Speaking of the cleanout, is there any market for auto transmissions, or should I just dump it?

Well, the conversion is complete, had a test drive this afternoon ;D All seems to work well. Just have to give Warren a call for some rubber parts. In the process, I did discover a load of issues: * the dash is broken - tacho doesn't work, fuel gauge doesn't work, oil pressure doesn't work, backlight is very dull. Speedo, temp gauge and amp gauge work. * indicators don't work * the handbrake doesn't do much, the car rolls backwards on my driveway with it fully on. Is this likely to be cable tension? I think I've stuffed up some of the dash wiring, everything was working (except the tacho), including indicators. I also bought one of those new chrome bumpers from the guy on ebay, I'll have to fit it and post some pics. Also need to get some stuff for my triple dellortos (no one has replied to my post in the sticky thread in fuel systems ). Aside from that, damn I've missed driving my zed :, and the manual is much better. It also starts waaayyy easier (don't pump the acc pedal, no choke) - starts like it's EFI, kicks in straight away. I'm quite proud of myself really - I hadn't even changed the oil in a car before my 260z. I've learnt heaps.

I got it off. I had tried spanner + hammer, in the end I used plenty of penetating oil, braced myself on the front of the car, and pushed with my foot/leg. I googled loctite freeze-n-release, looks pretty nifty - where can you buy it? Haven't seen it at supercheap (not that I've looked I guess).

It's the outie

I made a mistake in my first post - meant to say I can't get the filler plug undone. So there's no alternative?

As the title says, can you fill the gearbox with oil via the hole for the shifter? I can't get the filler plug undone. I'm sure I've read this before, but I'd like to confirm...

I looked at the repair manual and figured it out - the two female connectors (yellow/black wires) are the starter inhibit switch wires, the two males are for reverse lights. And yes, the starter inhibit wires would make for a good kill switch...

Went to start the car, and discovered I seem to have an electrical problem. I didn't pay any attention to which wires were which when removing the auto, so I'm not sure which ones are the starter inhibit. Seems there can only be 2 options (as there's 2 male and 2 female connectors). With one combination, everything works up to starting the engine - there's no starter motor. The other connection should therefore be the starter inhibit, but I connect them to each other, and the started motor comes on when the key hits the 'Acc' position. I didn't investigate further, as the powers that be came outside and told me very sternly that I'd spent too much time on the car today and it was time for dinner... Is this a simple/common problem?

I'd tentatively say ground it on the body - if you run a wire from the -ve terminal on the amp from the amp (in the back of the car?) into the engine bag, you might end up with a noisy ground connection, which could cause noise in the audio. I'd go as short a ground wire as possible to a good electrical connection to the body. The +ve connection can go in to the battery, as I'd say the amp would be internally regulated - a car's 12V supply isn't very stable, I'd imagine the amp would be internally regulated. For what it's worth, while I am an electronic engineer, I don't know much about audio or automotive systems, so take that all with a grain of salt.

Which piece? The slave cylinder/clutch fork rubber? The gear stick/transmission tunnel looks like the first pic in this thread: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2675.0.html Step 5 in the tutorial says it needs trimming for 280zx boxes?

Update: gearbox is in, things I still need to do: - trim hole in transmission tunnel to suit the shorter 280 box - re-attach drive shaft and rear sway bar - remove leftover auto fluid cooler lines from radiator - plug (vacuum?) hole in manifold - top-up gearbox oil - see if it all works :-\ I'll also need to track down the rubber piece that covers the hole in the gearbox near the slave cylinder before I do to much driving, as well as a rubber surround for the gear lever and a knob of some sort.

Another site I go to that has a similar section has a sticky at the top of that particular forum with a list and links to all project threads. Could be sorted by active/inactive or car model, but that would take some effort by someone to collate it all.

Thanks yes the dowel pins are lined up correctly.

The last page or so of this thread is just me asking questions, but I guess that's what it's for. I've loosely bolted up the clutch, but I want to check - at the moment there's a gap between the clutch and the flywheel where the bolts are - that is, I can see the bolt thread between the clutch and the flywheel. I assume as I tighten these bolts to the required torque, this gap is meant to go away as the the clutch is squeezed onto the flywheel?

Embarrassed to say I didn't think of that In the end I braced it with a metal bush from my old brake pedal, it was just the right size to sit between the teeth on the flex plate and the little dowel pin on the block. Did the same thing to bolt on the flywheel. Although I have to take the flywheel now, I didn't think it through and kept the round flat plate that was used like a washer for the flex plate, and now the bolts foul on the clutch pressure plate

Right, finally got some more time to work on the car, and straight away I've got another question... How do you remove the flex/drive plate? I can't figure out how to brace it to stop it turning. Tried a big bolt through one of the torque converter bolt holes, but that just warped/cracked the flex plate. How do you brace it?