BobsYourUncle

Is it an auto? If so, I think you need to remove the bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate.

I don't think anyone here is denying climate change, just questioning the impact of human civilization on said change. The climate is always changing - it's been both significantly cooler and significantly warmer in the past than it is now. Of course it'd be ridiculous to suggest that mankind has no impact on the Earth's climate, however the magnitude of this impact is still being debated. It's a shame that something that should be a scientific discussion turns into something resembling an argument about religion, with words like "believer" and "denier". Personally, I think we're rushing into this, and think that the carbon tax is a socialist wealth-redistribution scam that will cost jobs and harm our economy. FWIW I've done a PhD (though not in a relevant field), and have read some of the literature.

I've got a fluid leak that seems to be coming from the piston area of the rear left 280zx caliper on my 240z. I guess new seals will be required. Can anyone help me out with part numbers? Is there a kit available, and if so, where from?

I've got one here - http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,10644.0.html

My car (72 240z) doesn't have that rubber strap, or the provision for it. It just has two spring hangers attached to the underside of the car. Is that normal?

I think I know the answer to this, but I'm going to ask anyway to confirm - without the handbrake mounting brackets securing the handbrake cable (ie with the cable swinging in the breeze), the handbrake won't work, will it?

Bump - carbs and pressure plate sold, open to offers on the rest!

Looks all right to me... want to paint mine?

You get what you pay for, so it depends on how good a job you want. I've had a few quotes for my car (240z, sounds like similar condition to yours), ranging from $2500 to $12000. The $12000 guys would do a $12000 paint/body work job, I have no doubt of that having talked to them and seen their past work. But on a car that's only going to be worth $20k or so, it's a lot of money (but will probably last much better than the $2500 job). Make sure you look at their past/current projects, and I'd talk to guys who are experienced with old cars.

Thanks guys, I'm now sorted - Paul from zbitz at Walloon is fixing me up.

Thanks - I'm waiting to hear back from someone else who's a bit more convenient for me, but I may take you up on that - I'll let you know. If anyone has just the mounting straps, I'd be interested to hear from them too...

What sort have numbers have you been quoted so far?

I want to go back to the stock fuel tank in my 240z - does anyone have a 240z fuel tank and mounting hardware lying around, preferable in the Gold Coast/Brisbane area?

Yeah that would be the sensible way to go...

I've been quoted $6500 to get an rb20det conversion done by a shop that's done it before, including supply of the engine (+ new belts, seals, plugs, water pump), custom sump/pickup, intercooler and piping, exhaust, mod plate... Based on the research I've done I don't think I could do all that myself for less than $5k... I guess that's something else to think about.

I think it's the sump of the petrol patrol that ran an rb30 that's used? Isn't the diesel rd28 sump quite a bit bigger?

Seems like one of the major hurdles for this conversion would be the sump/oil pickup... what's the situation there? Is anyone (locally) selling suitable parts, or would you need to go custom, or ship something over from the US?

but is the improvement worth it? The wiring for the rb20 is quite complicated, even using the stock ecu/loom, isn't it? hmm I don't know...

Ok, so so far the majority opinion is RBs need more more money spent to be worth while, and that on my budget the L28 is the way to go. Thanks everyone.

*puts on flame suit* I'd like to think this isn't just another "I want an RB, can I do it for $10.50?" thread. Today my mind wandered to the thought of putting an RB20DET in my 240z, and the more I thought about it, the more sense it started to make. I want my car to be a daily, take me to work and back vehicle, so reliability and fuel economy are coming into this somewhat. I know everyone would usually say go the rb25, but my 240z project is already engineered in Qld for an rb20det (it's benny's old car). I've currently got an F54/N42 L28 with triple DHLA40s in it, but triples probably aren't the best choice for what I'm after (or are they??). It was engineered with stock brakes , but now it's got hilux fronts and r31 rear discs. I guess my question is, doing most of the work myself, can I do this conversion for $5k or less? And is it worth it? I figure I can get an engine, gearbox and loom package for around $2k, then I've got to budget for mounts, tail shaft, cooling, piping, modified/custom sump, fuel pump, surge tank, new fuel lines... anything else? I'd run the stock ECU and stock internals, I'm not looking for crazy performance... I suppose the alternative is to inject my L28. I suppose $2k or so would go a long way in this regard. Would installation complexity be that different? Fuel efficiency and power would still be worse though... I'm after opinions as well as facts, any input would be helpful

Couple of parts I forgot about: - Brand new N1339 brake shoes, suit later model 260z (check yours first, my '74 2+2 needed different ones) - $40 - Standard 240z brake master cylinder (I think these have a flow restrictor of some sort in them, this has been removed in this one) - $50 I can post photos of these if needed.

It's looking great - I really like the louvers on the hatch. They're 15" wheels, right?

More pics

I've got some parts that I no longer need, so buy them and help finance my build! - Mitsubishi electronic distributor, suits L24-28. Needs a clean up, but was working fine in my old 2+2 - $100 NLA - Round top 240z carbs + manifold, have been cleaned up and had a kit but through them (by benny, not me) - $400 Sold - 240z front rotors, a bit of surface corrosion (as you'd expect), but they've still got plenty of meat (~12mm thick) - $100 Sold - Exedy clutch pressure plate, brand new (OEM equivalent) - $30 Sold - 240z front calipers, need a clean/kit/pads - $50 Sold - 260z factory sealed headlights (from '74 2+2), working when removed - $20 - Brand new N1339 brake shoes, suit later model 260z (check yours first, my '74 2+2 needed different ones) - $40 - Standard 240z brake master cylinder (I think these have a flow restrictor of some sort in them, this has been removed in this one) - $50 - 260z 2+2 automatic gearbox (has torque converter, but no flex plate) - free, come and get it before it goes to the dump next weekend

There's a couple of guys running LS1s on here, maybe have a look at their project threads?