Sirpent

Thanks David You have a very keen eye there and as always on the money, the moustache bar no longer becomes the main insulator for the differential but rather a carrier for the suspension so will be solid mounted. Nevertheless it will still carry the diff and yes the diff has a rear mounted insulator held in place by a single bolt to the diff cover and dual bolts from the insulator to the mounting point which in this case will be the new carrier design, while the front have an isulator mount either side, so the entire diff floats so to say within the cradle. By using the new carrier in this way also, distribution of suspension forces are now spread across a wider area namely the rearward rails rather than the 2 drop brackets from the cross beam between them. I think it will work nicely as a package especially once I introduce Arizona rear control arms to the mix. Cheers John

Sorry Rough thumbnail, but think it will convey what I'm thinking Cheers John

Nice work Peter. Once again, the exchange of idea's on this site never ceases to amaze me. What did you think about the cradle concept I'm working on Peter? I think the M86 diff I picked up is (I'm sorry to say) probably a better option than the Holden set up. Cheers John

Thanks for the info, Will definitely follow up on the avenues you mentioned, but please don't think that I was going to install the box and clutch as is, I only wanted to use what I'm getting for fit up purposes and have already spoken to Peter Mc about what needs to be refurbished on the box and diff before final installation. Cheers

OK Yes I can understand the trepidations about using a spacer, however we are not talking a massive thickness here, think in the realms of 10-15mm's. If it was lets say a 40+ mm situation yes I would agree, however the centrifugal forces acting upon the mounting bolts using such a thin spacer would be negligible and I doubt you would see a catastrophic failure. Even LS1 transplants using earlier style transmissions utilise spacer plates so I cant really see an issue, and I say this as opposed to a cut and shut of 2 bellhousings to create a seamless fit, that's would worry me a hell of a lot more to be honest. Cheers John

Benny I will be using the Holden flywheel in conjunction with a spacer to offset the belhousing adaptor I want made up, this way I can use off the shelf and aftermarket gear moving forward. Cheers John

UPDATE Secured my T56 6 speed box today out of a VX SS, comes complete with bellhousing, flywheel, clutch assy and tailshaft, should be here from Hervey Bay in the next week so the drivetrain is almost complete and will be awaiting the motor later next month. Now can anyone recommend a good CNC Router mob who can produce an adaptor plate in Melbourne? Cheers John

I think any award to be honest, Give some of the newbie's including myself something to aim for

Well Done ! Think there should be a thread thats locked where pics of all awards won by forum members is posted.

Are Witch burnings still legal anywhere? I shouldn't talk considering my blasphemous ways.

OEM was always stippled blck finish

Hi David You have a very valid point regarding the tailshaft length and this is something I also put to jay as a concern, as he explained with the Shelby Cobra replica's they do utilising similar hardware to what I'm proposing, their tail shafts are only 22 cm's long but assured me that using universals was a sound option, nevertheless I will be heading down to see him and discuss this in person. As for the Benz tailshaft it would be pointless as I will now be using a manual T56 rather than the speedshift so if i was looking at modifying any sort of OEM item it would probably be a BF tailshaft, all hypothetical at this stage but I wanted some basic alignment info first up. Peter At this stage all I will be doing is coming up with a cradle design in a mock up stage to see how well the diff can be placed within the constraints of the rear area and in relation to the control arms, what I am envisaging is utilising the moustache bar as a suspension mounting and fabricating a new beam from which I will then run a web structure down to the rearward control arm beam more or less creating a single structure. From that point forward I will run 2 horizontal beams to the forward facing control arm mount therefore creating a cradle off the original mounting points. The idea then is to use these beams as the bases for the side mounts for the M86 diff mounts. At the rear I will use the factory mount that bolts to the diff cover and have this bolted to the new rear moustache mount. The idea is that this moustache replacement will look similar to a C4 Corvette set up as per attached. If it works, then I can have the engineer go over it and advise what final modifications need to be made, a lot easier than trying to convey ideas and concepts. As far as the adaptors, yes it has been done and he has offered to show me when I come down. Hope this all makes sense. Cheers John

Hi David Just getting back to you on this, I spoke to Jay at M@S Drive Shafts today, these guys do most of the mod work on custom cars this side of town and have been around since Noah to discuss the tailshaft scenario and requirements in my Zed. Jay custom fabricates tail shafts and installs them in Shelby Cobra replica's that use the diff and box set up I'm going for and his basic response was that the way they are set up in these cars is to have the diff and box yokes aligned perfectly down the drivetrains center line but to offset the diff either 5-10 degrees above or below that line. As far as joints are concerned he recommends going with universals and having adaptors made up to mate to the diff and box yokes and guarantees I wont have any issues at all. Thoughts anyone? Cheers John

Thanks guys....... I have had a number of difficulties of late of a personal nature and the transit has had to take a back seat which is annoying as all I have been able to do it tinker with other cosmetic items in the meanwhile and that in turn has probably left a lot of you wondering if not imagining that I'm a bit of a "Dreamer and Gunna" I'm now also on the hunt for a T56 box as oppossed to a Getrag which the feelers have gone out on and hopefully somewhere around September/October I will be calling on some of you to come help with the chassis upgrade so as to get this jigger into its new home. If I can get past these hurdles the body work doesn't phase me at all and from there on in it should be a more steady course and progress. Once again, thanks to you all for putting up with my rants and at times inconsequential updates, promise to make the thread a more exciting read in the coming months. Cheers John

David ! Love the new Avatar by the way !!!!!!!!!1

David, All correct, and I realise that, so will have to look at the alignment strategies that a Falcon or Commodore use and then decide what goes between the box and diff, at this stage I just want to mock up a prelim cradle to see overall fit then fine tune a final version once the motor and box are available for trial fitting, all in all I think the package should work nicely though.

AT LAST It's official, motor should be here at Melbourne Docks on Friday 17th of August !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! To celebrate I went out and purchased a diff today, I decided after much thought surfing and consolation, (Thanks Peter Mc and Peter Allan) that I will be installing an M86 LSD diff used in the BF XR6 Turbo's and picked up this 30,00K diff, ratio is 3.46:1 So this weekend I have some reason to get to work on designing and mocking up a new cradle assy which will support the diff and firm up the rear suspension, I chose this over the commodore equivalent due to the mounting arrangement. Cheers John

If only they would put it into production, complete with the front mounted "Flux Capacitor" LOL Just goes to show that the boys as Broardie can go one better than a Vette or Mustang.

Porn

Not to mention having his nails painted and straightening his hair.................. So quickly we forget.

Hi I checked all the wiring diagrams I have and couldnt see anything with the color codes you have posted BUT ! I did find this on the net for a 1974 260Z http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/74_260z_manual_wire.gif Hope it helps

Welcome Buddy Cheers John

"SHEXY"

Way to go Mike ! Looking forward to the video when you have time.

Hey Thanks Mike I think you can see what I mean now about the loss of the lip effect and how they seem to get lost in the process, however the overall fit looks good and Im pretty sure that by retaining the hosuings and then using a contrating clolos to the body work for the entire rear garnish they will look pretty contemporary with the rear looks of the car. Cheers John