RB30X

Guys I have some gear I’ve collected that I need to move on due to project changes etc, and I have to pay back the missus 'some of my money she lent me' to buy this last car. Make offers for multiple items. For what it’s worth a lot of this stuff especially the aluminium parts look great after sand blasting (see *) so if you need a part or two and would like to buy it once sandblasted let me know. Sandblasting will incur a $30/hour fee. 2 x 280ZX inlet manifolds with or without efi gear including injectors and rail $50/each (bare) * 1 x separate injector rail $10 L28 dizzy (no cap) but including mounting base $100 3 x L28 exhaust manifolds $5/each F54 block $50 L28 sump $25 N42 head (complete) $150 L28 rods and/or dished pistons L28 timing cover * L28 oil pump * L28 thermostat housing with sensors $10 * L28 90’ deg oil filter mount * L28 idle pulley & adjust mechanism $10 2 x L28 starter motor $30/each 2 x L28 ignition coils $20/each 2 x 280ZX alternators $30/each 2 x 280ZX & 1 x 240Z clutch master cylinders (rebuild reccom) $10/each * 280ZX headlight surrounds $25 RB30E block $9.95 RB30E head (complete) $50 RB30 rocker cover $30 RB30 oil pump $20 * 240/260Z battery inspection covers $15/each 280ZX 25 spline stub axles $50 280ZX 25 spline companion flanges $20 280ZX 25 spline CV half shafts $50 260Z 2+2 fuel tank $40 280ZX fuel tank $40 260Z 2+2 rear control arms $50 260Z 2+2 55mm rear struts (complete) $70/pair 280ZX front struts $50/pair 280ZX rear struts $40/pair 280ZX rear control arms 260Z & 280ZX front rod and control arm thingys $10/pair 260Z dash vent thing $20 3 x 280ZX & 1 x 260Z radiators $40/each Radiator shrouds 4 x L28 clutch fans $5/each 280ZX rear brake calipers $40/pair R32 rear calipers and pads $100/pair R31 rear calipers with brackets (unmodified) $100/pair 260Z door arm rests $30/pair 260Z 2+2 door cards $30/pair 260Z 2+2 inside cover for rear light panel There's probably other stuff but that's all I could see on a shed tour today. cheers

At the end of the day mate, 240 or 280, you're doing up a Zed and its not going to be cheap. Some second hand stuff can remain decent quality, some stuff gets old and that is where you buy new replacement parts. If you want a cheap car to do up you're on the wrong forum.

what happened to the efi?

Have a look on the ID plates of those cars, it should have the auto code. Look for 3N71B or 4N71B. I've got two valve bodies here waiting for the first person to put their hand up.

Here are some photos of the fuel cell install. Before I had a quick read through that link I knew I would have some work to do to get it approved (fuel cell is the only thing that does not have a mod plate). I'm not sure about the angle thing regarding the back of the car protecting the cell. I've seen a lot worse than this though. Take note of the ugly drain cap of the appropriate size to drain small birds out of the fuel cell.

Here are the pics of exhaust config and gearbox mount.

To get around the headers on my car they had to add an extra uni and knuckle joint which looks the same a the factory one, so I can't imagine they'd be too hard to find.

Benzed imported some 280zx front and the guy never bought it, hit him up.

please don't think those prices were real. I made them sound as rediculous as possible and the total was more than the individual prices on purpose. in all seriousness, how much would you pay for a bumper to be sent to you from townsville qld 4815. its only a couple of bolts to undo, considering i've just removed the diff, CV axles, stub axles, engine head, timing cover, auto valve body etc. The bumper sounds easy. You can see it in the pics on the first page.

Don't forget to put oil in it.

Ha, whats wrong with my 7 inch RHS shifter. Funny you mention that Peter as I've already priced a shifter stick from Holden at $130, then ordered a Hurst shifter with a white ball knob with the T56 pattern. How did you get stung? I'll grab those photos today for you. The wheel well has been removed for the fuel cell but non of it has been approved yet so I'll be looking into the rules a regs for that. The wheel well and original fuel tank did come with the car though if I ever need to put them back in. I honestly don't mind the coils where they are, but did look into nicer covers and relocating them when I had my Clubsport. As far as power, I had similar mods in my Clubsport, mafless tune, K&N filter, extractors (4>1) and twin 2.5 exhuast which made 249rwkw. So depending on how healthy this engine is 220-250???

Well a spring is replaced inside the valve body to increase the fluid pressure obviously. And between the two halves of the valve body there is a seperator plate. Enlarging certain holes in this plate is the key to all of lifes mysteries. DIY?? Well it can be done from home if you are sent the stronger spring to replace and a template to enlarge the holes yourself, although pulling apart and putting back together the valve body isn't for the faint hearted. I was only thinking $100 exchange for the shift kitted valve body. I send you one and when your done, you send me yours to modifiy for the next person. Or, if you want a DIY option I could look into that. Any shift kits sold would see a donation to the site of course. Any other questions?

Hi guys, here is some info and pics of my new Zed. Build: 71' HS3010567 Engine: LS1 5.7L with a mafless tune, and block hugging headers (4>2>1) Gearbox: 6 speed manual T56 Diff: R200 LSD 3.45 gears. Z32 CV shafts Brakes: Z32 fronts and rears Suspension: Coil over conversion, spring rates and dampner details unknown. Fuel system: Alloy fuel cell, Carter lift pump, surge tank, Bosch 044 fuel pump, fuel reg. Plans at this stage is to go over the car and fix up wiring. The dash isn't connected so maybe some aftermarket gauges for speed and revs might be able to get signals from the LS1 pcm. Maybe a new radiator, then there's nothing really stopping me from attending a motokhana. Re-install the interior as it was kind of all thrown in at the last minute. New carpets and vinyl. I've got a new weatherstrip kit from Black Dragon to go on. A rear spoiler. Still lots of things to do but certainly closer to being RWC than my other one. New paint job one day, but I love the white. Hopefully one day it will look like this.

Ok. So to perform this conversion or swapping of valve bodies you do the following. - Pick up a service kit from Repco or somewhere which includes a new bottle of trans fluid, a new filter and pan gasket. I also recommend running an external oil cooler if you live where it gets hot. - Jack the car up, handbrake on and shifter in neutral. - Undo the many bolts around the pan (sump for auto). Take note of how they aren't very tight. This is how they should go back on. - Have a container ready to catch the fluid. Unfortunently there is no drain plug for this so it gets messy. - Once the pan is off you should see this. -Take note of the two pins from servos/solenoids on the passenger side of the trans (yellow arrows). They stick into the valve body and one may fall out as you remove it. Also, take note of where the shifter linkage sits in the selector rod. (red arrow) These pins and rods must go back the same way. - Undo the following 10mm bolts highlighted with the yellow lines (read on first). Do not undo the ones in red as this holds the two halves of the valve body together. These bolts are different lengths so make sure you record or remember where they came from. - As you undo the last few bolts the valve body should just fall out (don't drop it). Here is where you find out you haven't put it in neutral. (don't put it in neutral with no bolts holding it inside your trans). - Remove the old filter by undoing the smaller 8mm bolts, as well as the one 10mm bolt with the nut. Ensure this goes back on the new valve body same way. - The you get the modified valve body and install it the same way you removed the other one. Ensure the pins slide in to their holes as you insert the valve body and the shifter linkage sits in neutral. - New gasket. trans fluid and you're away. Clear as mud???

Looks interesting. Don't think that driver really suits the car, but.......

I found out some good news today for auto owners. The 280zx i was stripping was an auto and I never really took much notice of it until today. It turns out that nissan has used the same jatco auto throughout the nissan range from around this era, the 4n71b and the 3n71b (4 speed and 3 speed). The reason this is good news is many years ago I was involved in the development of a shift kit for the 4 speed which has the same valve body as the 3 speed. The goal was to strengthen the internals of the auto to increase lifespan behind an increased horsepower engine, especially the turbo. The shift kit for these valve bodies stiffens up and reduces shift time by increasing fluid pressure and the volume of fluid required for each shift. the result is a smooth firm shift, not a harsh shift, and otherwise normal operation. I have personally installed at least ten of these 'shift kitted' valve bodies and sold about 20 on an exchange basis (its easier to swap valve bodies yourself than install a whole shift kit). Does anyone know what auto came out in the 240 and 260Z's? Hopefully the three speeds are all the same. Now what I'm saying is if you have an auto Zed (can't afford to swap to a 5 speed) and want to increase its life span while improving performance, and have basic mechanical skills, you can install a shift kitted valve body into your auto yourself. I'll have to see how much interest there is in such a thing as I know most of you have manuals but I still have all the parts and information required to produce such a product from back in my Vl turbo days. I can transform the valve body I removed today from the 280zx auto and work from there. As far as cost goes, I'll have to see what existing kits go for these days from places such as Keas and B&M or if they're still available. If you're interested let me know or ask questions here.

Best of luck in your quest, I'll be watching and drooling. Will triple carbs physically fit on an RB twin can head? Strut tower wise I mean.

Very nice. I bought a Nikon D5000, but hardly know how to work it yet. And yours?

I do apoligise. I've spent many hours recently replying to people, removing parts to take and send photos of, only to have people offer me sweet FA for the part/s regardless. I know this is a for sale thread and you have every right to enquire but you got me at a bad time. There are some gentlemen on here that are a pleasure to do business with as they understand how much effort on the sellers behalf there is to remove the part/s, package the item/s then organise freight and they offer and pay accordingly, even organise the freight themselves. Then there's other people who can't comprehend that and want to pay $2 for an engine or front bumper and have it sent halfway across the country for $5. I'm just going to remove the diff, axles and head off this car including intake manifold and its going to get crushed, even the F54 block.

What would you expect to pay for a second hand bumper including frieght to Canberra from Townsville QLD? $20?

Go for it. I didn't buy those cars they were for sale. All that is really salvegable from this car is the bumper itself and I can't see you actually paying for such a 'non rare' item to be shipped down to Canberra. I've had enough of people wasting my time with these parts.

STOP SNIFFING PAINT

- Radiator Grille $185.95 - Bumper $234.70 - Bumper Face $89.99 The whole lot $600

Hmm, 280zx, you could always go champain, or you can't go wrong with white.

Define rooster eyed?? The Zed I've just bought is toeing in on the rears and was wondering how to adjust this.