Thomo260
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Everything posted by Thomo260
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This is also a good read. A lot of info on this site aswell but it's mainly for running doubles. http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/inglese/inglesetuning.htm
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G'day Sam and welcome. Just had a look at the eBay listing and it dosn't look to bad in the other pics. Nothing a bit of time and detail can't fix. Simon
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Emulsion tubes are very tricky. Stick with what the carb comes with cause unless you have unlimited time on a dyno then don't bother as the differences can be impossible to detect with out the dyno. You wont know what idle jets they will need until you get it running and do the testing to find out if they are to rich or lean. You really need to have lots of different size jets on hand when tunning. Can get very frustrating if you don't know what you are doing. Where are you located? East side of what?
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A lot depends on your venturi size. But if you are running a size 36mm, then I would start with a main jet of around 1.50 and air correctors of 1.90. That will get you running. Then spend time fine tunning and have Patience.
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I will be there for sure. Flying solo.
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From the album: Thomo 260 2+2
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From the album: Thomo 260 2+2
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From the album: Thomo 260 2+2
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From the album: Thomo 260 2+2
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From the album: Thomo 260 2+2
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From the album: Thomo 260 2+2
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I have just done this work with the wet legs in my 2+2 and found when emptying out the old crap that was in there (they varied from 250mls to 330mls) I settled on 400mls each for front and rear. Combined with the lowered King spring that were fitted at the same time the difference is fantastic. At first I thought it to be too hard but after a few drives it is actually not as hard as my VZ C'dore with FE2 susp.
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Scoota you idiot. Yeah Ariel Atom. You just beat me.
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Drives great. Doesn't skip into the lane of oncoming traffic now . The auto trans fluid in the wet legs combined with the King springs work well together. I have only done a string line alignment atm, but i am usually only a mm or 2 out.
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Got a quick pic today when i went for a spin. Will have to get some decent shots tho. Very happy with how the wheels sit under the gaurds but i need to roll the front lip just a tad.
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And i forgot to add that the springs are all in the car and the wet legs have been redone. Ride hight is perfect dropping it 30mm all round. I am waiting for the tyres to turn up for the rims before I post a finished pics.
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Have got a price for the pinch weld/door seal. I can get it for $9.00 p/mtr so all you would have to do is tell me how much you want and I can post it off. Postage cost will vary. 10 mts will do both doors and both rear hatch windows or 7.5 for just the doors, BUT you should measure yourself first to be sure to be sure. Cheers Simon.
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Just trying to organise a couple of thing but I plan to be there. Got other halfs Xmas breakup the same day and got to off load a couple of kids. But all good at this stage.
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:-\ "finish the trip with a day at Symmon's Plains which I have booked for 16/2/10. 9th Tues Catch boat accross to Tassie 6.30pm 10th Wed Drive to Symmons Plains for Race Day $120- per car Then White Sands Resort" :-\ I must have read it wrong aswell. Or did I?
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Very neat. Just wondering where you got the front spoiler from? or was it already on the car?
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Yes mate will be definitely there. I sent Craig an email to make it official.
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Some pics of how it looks now. Still waiting on new springs to arrive so for now only the diff and tail shaft is back in.
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Will get prices and let you know. I did a group buy with similar product on Ozdat for the 1600 and it was half the price of Clark Rubber. Stay tuned.
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Yep, sure am. Only got the diff and trailing arms to blast then paint. I have had the apprentice on the job today, he is good at getting in where my hands don't fit.
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Well I have finally made a start on getting the rear end refurbished and detail it a bit as I go. Lowered King spring going in and will be fitting the Riken rims that I got off eBay for a bargain.
