2+2er

Nice work, just dont leave anything the boot and floor it.

If she's on the road by then which I am seriously hoping she is, I'll be in

Always good to see another 2+2 on here

Mondays are terrible at for me. Where does Sulio work?

I couldn't find a better spot for this so here goes. In my 76 260Z 2+2 when i performed this upgrade (280zx alternator in, voltage reg out), I found that the alternator was not charging well until it got to at least 2000 RPM. when I tried to measure the voltage on the blue wire (switched 12V power via the warning light) I found it was bouncing between 12 and 0 volts. Its only now that I'm repairing the water fuel and oil gauge voltage regulators that I realise the blue wire is fed power from the oil gauge voltage regulator and only receiving an average of 5 Volts (5 volts according to the info i found on the net). this results exciter circuit in the alternator not functioning correctly as its needs 12 Volts. When I manually apply 12 volts the alternator functions as it should. I believe the answer is to take a wire from (join to) the Black with white ignition wire that powers the coil and old engine voltage regulator when the ignition is in the on position and combin it with the blue warning light wire and connect to the L terminal on the alternator ( I hope to confirm this on the weekend). ............ : ------- : "S" :.... | ....: : | : : | : "L" :...: I searched hi and low but there was no mention of this in any of the conversions I read. I hope this saves someone from a trip to the auto elec :)

Put me down for a set

Good stuff! I think its safe to say you are no longer an amateur with the carbs.

xa1973 has mentioned a good method, don't need to machine the head before reinstalling it if its not warped and or pitted, 320 grit (of finer) wet and dry will prepare it nicely for a new gasket.

Its not looking good I'm about to ad a compression tester to my toolkit but have to move this weekend. I suspect your friend might be right about the head gasket leaking and a compression test is the way to go.

this is the setup on my 4 screw round tops.

the plug gap is easy to check with a feeler gauge and should be .8 - .9mm. The plugs will probably be dry, black and have sooty deposits if the carb(s) is running rich and is most likely the cause. What oil did you use in the dash pots? RE the pistons, the Youtube video suggested you try swapping the pistons between the two carbs first to get them both falling at the same speed. Some one may have mixed them up.

sorry, I just re read your post and realised the backfire was at idle and not while opening the throttle. Is the backfire happening in the exhaust or through the carb(s)? Have you cleaned the sparkplugs and check the gaps? They can foul up when your mucking round with rich mixtures and are the only other component you would have altered during the swap. Also, if your vacuum has change it may have effected the vacuum advance on your distributor.

I did some time in an engine reco shop and there can be problems with the cam binding if the head has been over heated and the towers are not re installed in the same order. Always mark each tower and base with a centre punch before you remove them and you should be fine, however it was good practice to only remove the towers when absolutely necessary. Shims are mainly used to maintain the timing (distance) between the cam and crankshaft. An adjustable cam timing gear will do a similar thing only better.

A sticking needle will cause backfiring, is it from one or both carbs? Did you align the jets at anystage?

I hit up Clark rubber and look for something you can cut to fit the steering column. no idea about the hatch parts though.

Good stuff, can wait to see the pics and video. My colortune arrive on Friday so I'll be tuning mine latter today with it. What needles did you end up using?

I used to drive a light rigid truck and a lady (elderly) once accused me of running a red light and scrapping the front of her car. The police made it clear that "hit and run" would put me in court had it of actually happened. The issue was dropped quickly when the truck was examined, the old lady mistook the green straight light as her turn arrow. Make that fool pay for doing a runner!

Thanks Sexual_sushi, I used a dremmel with a semi-fine sand paper bit on the rough stuff and autosole on the rest with buffing bit and a rag. Its true that you can find 2+2 parts cars more easily but no commercial guys I've found will hang onto the parts that don't interchange with the 260Z and 240Z. I don't know if any one else has had this problem but for the life of my I could not find a hazard switch. I had to combine the switch out of a 280C and the plug from a 120Y to make the one you see in the attached pics.

On my 2+2 its a bypass solanoid. From what i can see on the AU wiring diagram, it is the AU version of the interlock system that activates when the engine stops turning over in the event of a crash to stop fuel in case it fuels a fire. it gets power from the ignition key position (green wire) and the earth (Yellow and Green) comes from the water temp relay and the alternator relay in series. If both relays are activated, the bypass solenoid is activated (earthed) and fuel from the pump output is directed straight back to the tank.

Hey Lurch, my anti virus (avast) picked up a Trojan with that link you posted. "http://www.auspirit.com/au/aspirit/productdetail.asp?ID=22"

Try Lurch, he had some bits for a 2+2.

as I have been replacing parts and trying to fill in the blanks where previous owners have removed and lost various parts, i noticed it was hard to find good pictures for reference so I have labeled a bunch of shots below for any one facing similar issues.

A threat for 2+2 part specs would be very helpfull indeed or at least the ones that differ from 240Z and 260Z parts. I took me ages to get the right driveshaft. Thanks All Z Parts for that one.

WARNING! When changing the front lower control arm bushes, you must remove the shell from the arm. My energy suspension kit said to leave them in and I killed a set of bushes forcing them in Picture of the offending part below

I just got hold of a repair kit for $50 from: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-Carburetor-Repair-Kit-1969-8-71-39-5063_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6763QQihZ009QQitemZ190300207064 The needles are N47 and M49, it suite the 71 240z round top carbs. I have never pulled an SU apart but started to on sunday and found they where very easy to dismantle, clean, change out parts and reassemble. I completed one on sunday and am part way through the second. i found in one of the float chambers that someone had replaced the float locking pin with a nail Your flooding problem will almost certainly be due to an incorrect float level. The video idea is great. I will try and get some footage while I have the second one apart.