Aaron Neubauer

Does anyone have a usable LD28 block and main caps on Aussie soil? I suspect its a very slim chance but I figured I'd ask. Cheers

Selling my used LM2 single WBO2 sensor data logger. Comes with OBD2 cable and spare extended weld in bung. I previously used this for data logging and tuning my SU carbs and my Megasuirt MS3X on unleaded pump fuel. The power supply has been modified for a permanent install and the original socket plug is included in sale. $350 ono. Located in SE QLD and can post at buyers expense.

I'm selling my faithful MS3X on V3.0 board with knock module for $500.00 ONO. Located in SE QLD. I can post at buyers expense. The ECU was wired and configured for sequential fuel and direct ignition coil drive for a distributor based ignition with two WBO2 inputs on my L28 stroker. The distributor driver is a BIP373 ignition driver internally triggered by Spark A from the MS3X. It comes with remaining unused wires for harness kit, the two DB connectors and as much of the custom harness wires (no sensor or actuator connectors) that I can salvage. Reason for selling is I was able to obtain an Emtron ECU at a good price.

Well its been a while! Here is a high level summary of what has happened since the last post: Tanks Inc PA4 fuel pump installed in the shallow part of the fuel tank without any welding Ended up upgrading to a Megasquirt MS3 CPU, MS3X expansion module and internal knock monitor - full sequential fuelling and retaining L20Et dizzy converted to full cable throttle debugged a number of items with the EFI and added sensors to allow for more compensations with fuelling calculations I've tuned the fuelling tables while keeping peak timing ceiling at a conservative 30 degrees until the knock sensing is tuned. The designed third harmonic of the manifold occurs at 5500rpm and you can definitely see the effect in the fuelling maps and the way the car picks up from 3500rpm. It serves as a little bit of validation for Whitleytune's design. Next stop, dyno runs on the same dyno for comparison!

I think I fixed it

Hey guys. The ITB manifold has arrived from Whitleytune. It's a mad bit of kit. I will just leave not safe for work photos here for now..... If you want to see the youtube update use the link in my the signature

A little more has happened with the EFI build. Dual lambda sensors is what! I had planned to run dual lambda sensors on the Hitachi SU carbs if I had not the opportunity to work with Whitley Tune and the sport injection setup. The goal now is two injector banks with target AFR maps. I run a Zstory 6-2-1 header and I decided to locate the sensors at the collector of the primaries to mitigate the risk of air contamination through a joint. Its probably overkill but it seems sensible to have the most accurate reading possible if I’m trying to have the most accuracy target AFR map for two banks of injectors the MS1 V3 allows me to have. Cylinder 4-6 location was easy! The collector is located in the space between the gearbox and transmission tunnel. This one was near vertical which is the optimum orientation. Cylingders 1-3 collector is tucked in behind anything and I could to find an orientation that I was happen with to manage heat for the sensor and the wiring so I located on the side of the collector. The sensor and wiring is just in front of the gearbox in the space behind the sump. Its not completely horizontal but I’m confident its still in a good location. Innovate Motorsports recommend 24” from exhaust and these are about 35”. I’ve had an LM-2 for more than ten years and I plan to install a DLG-1 if it ever gets here (understandable shipping delay). Matt welded these bad boys in (MYS30 build). I am in his debt . Cheers guys!

Thanks mate, good to know!

Time for some Megasquirt ECU mods! I had configured the MS1 V3 board for ignition only. Some additional work and mods are needed to make it fully armed and operational for EFI. In the process I broke a leg off one of the current resisting devices for the injector banks I will have to buy new ones from DIYautotune as they are hard to get with the hole to mount on the heatsink. Thats really all that is left to complete on the ECU. In summary I've added: second WBO2 sensor input second Nissan optical trigger input fan relay control 2 wire IAC control shifted the launch control input 5V tach output There isn't many standard configurable pins left in the DB37 harness now.....

Porting can fix any flow problem though there is heaps of wall thickness in any SU manifold to work with to improve flow path particularly at cyl 1/2 and 5/6 divisions.

I think mine is an E46. Only match ported supports 201.6rwhp.

So, stock 4 screw round tops can support at least 201.6rwhp. There may be some debate over how the dyno calculates hp but there is a decent increase from the last dyno in hp and torque from essentially a tune to the fuel and ignition. Tune is super rich which could be fixed with different needles like TF but I wanted to get a run in in case QLD requires a lock down to manage the pandemic. I’m super chuffed. When I set out to home build the L28 stroker motor all I wanted as 200RWHP with triple Webers. I think I said that years ago in this build log in fact! To think I could achieve that with the standard carbs is amazing! I’ve attached the 2017 dyno sheet and the 2020 sheet. I can now get back to the ITB EFI swap knowing that it is likely to only make more power!

Use the promo code AUSZCAR for a discount on shirts. Any profit left will be donated to the site. Same designs are at Redbubble which are AU based. https://www.redbubble.com/people/BuiltOnPurpose/

@gav240z haha! I can at least confirm an increase from 170rwhp....

Dyno day! Round tops are back on. Its off to visit the same dynometer I ran back in 2017 for a complete comparison. The car made 170rwhp then. I hope the fixed exhaust, programmable ignition and tuned carbs will make an increase. If I go backwards I will be a sad panda. Results TBA....

I think Whitley Tune have something in development that will work with the strut tower regarding filtration. Running a shorter intake would be out of sync with the intake air harmonics for my engine specs. Probably wouldn’t have a sweet spot. If I have to drive around without filters I will haha

Hahaha thats gold!

**Gav, I wasn't sure where to post. Please shift if necessary** Hi all. A side hustle of mine is some super dorky T shirt designs in particular the "is my cardio" theme. Designs cover 240Z through to 370Z and a bunch of other models. To help support the site I will donate 50% of profits from any shirt sales. For transparency that is $2.00 USD per shirt sold as a donation and currently no sales I think influenced by the pandemic. From memory shirts ship from US. If this is problematic I could put them up on Redbubble which is AU if people feel more comfortable with this. Links below to the shirts if your interested. Examples attached. https://teespring.com/driving-240z-cardio-wht https://teespring.com/driving-260z-cardio-wht https://teespring.com/driving-280z-cardio-wht https://teespring.com/driving-280zx-cardio-wht https://teespring.com/driving-300zx-cardio-wht https://teespring.com/driving-350z-cardio-wht https://teespring.com/driving-370z-cardio-wht

I hope you are all well considering the state of things. Time to see if the ITB setup will fit! Whitley Tune has sent me a 3D printed runner, ITB and trumpet of cylinder 6 to test in the engine. Cylinder 6 was identified as the critical runner in a RHD drive car and it turned out to be. I use the stock battery and I’ll either relocate the battery or change to a smaller more efficient battery. There is about 10mm between the bottom lip of the trumpet and the battery. That’ll affect the performance of cylinder 6. I’m not sure that I will be able dyno the twin SU setup without holding up the EFI build with everything going on. We will have to see. Link to Whitley Tune’s information doc: https://uploads-ssl.webflow.com/5bad6feacfdca44aacb6ee99/5e76ba431ede366a96b6d8ae_WT Sports Injection.pdf

Hey all. Not a lot has progressed on the 240Z. Only a bit more refinement with the ignition map on the Megasquirt really. I’m almost happy enough to hit the same dyno to see if my tweaks pay off. I have had the suggestion of swapping out the SB needles to TF needles which I am contemplating but I want more logged data to inform my choice. With the time away from working on the car it has given me time to think. I’ve decided to convert to EFI. I’m excited to be working with Whitley Tune as a guinea pig for a future ‘Sports Injection’ kit for the L6. I’ve got a 3D printed test runner, throttle body and trumpet to clearance in the car. End to end it’s 410mm based on a third harmonic of approximately 5500 rpm. It is suitable for a second harmonic of approximately 7700rpm but I doubt building a head for that is in my capability but I might swap cam and work a head to be as efficient as possible for the third harmonic. Throttle bodies are Ø50mm straight bore butterfly. Have a look at the video below to get a feel for the runners, they’re a lot bigger in real life. The Megasquirt MS1 is pretty underpowered and can manage two banks of batch fire injectors at best. I will wire a bank of injectors corresponding with the banks of primary runners from my Zstory exhaust manifold using dual WBO2 to run closed loop target AFR maps. Ignition will remain as the 12-1 trigger disc L20ET distributor with MSD 6AL. I may change to COP at a later stage as an experiment but for now, if it isn’t broke don’t fix it. I am at a cross road for fuel supply. I have a Bosch 050 I had planned to use in conjunction with a surge tank and existing Holley Red as a lift pump. I have seen a few in tank EFI pump options. Has anyone used an aftermarket in tank pump? I’m interested in any experiences. The tank will come out for rehabilitation anyway.

I've heard of an RB30 CAS fitting an L series distributor but seeing it is finally proof. How much modification did you need to do to fit?

Its been a long time between drinks! So the L20ET dizzy is back together and the car runs. I've been working on a safe ignition map good enough to run on the dyno as part of the 200rwhp experiment. I'm pretty chuffed with the map. It feels torque when the cam kicks in. Total advance is 36degrees. If I had some dyno time and a proper knock sensor I reckon I could get 40 degrees to work. Anyway, heres the update video!

So I tackled the one task to do with the optical dizzy swap that I had procrastinated. I swapped the turbo oil pump drive spindle with the engine still in the car. The swap itself isn’t hard just a little awkward. I threw the process into a tutorial style vid ‘cause I thought it might help someone....one day.... I got in contact with Mori-san from Kameari Race Works about a substitute for the missing splined collar on the dizzy and a newly manufacturer collar is on its way. Once the collar is here there is no excuse stopping the final ignition tune!