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gilltech

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gilltech last won the day on May 17

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  1. Good luck with the Kia Sportage door seals, I was looking a year back and couldn't find any stock anywhere.
  2. That's what I thought. Not my definition of 'original'. Reminds me of a Zed I went to see many years ago. It was advertised as a 260 2-seat but had 240 panels and parts, an amalgamation of two cars. Wasn't for me.
  3. Interesting, I like the colour. Better priced now. Being picky perhaps but I wouldn't call it 'original' seeing as the original motor has been replaced with a 260 motor complete with flat tops. Why? Are new / repro consoles available for the '71? And is that front bumper off a '73? Looks wrong...
  4. Ditto what AndBir and others are saying about black paint on the seat brackets and anywhere which isn't covered by carpet or trim of some kind. All so no body colour shows through. Pretty basic black slop it is. As per my early RS30 too, the black circles above the strut towers are behind the ventilation perforations in the plastic trim panels. There was a discussion thread earlier this year in which HS30-H and others clarified which panels were secured to or sitting on the shell, and which ones weren't, when the shell was painted. IMO Nissan did the minimum required and the easiest/quickest to suit them. We can do far better with repaints as those such as C.A.R. and others on this forum are demonstrating.
  5. Can you put up some pictures? Maybe it's much the same as the earlier cars, ie. 240/260/280Z.
  6. I've collected quite a number of '70s-era road tests of various S30s - by British, American and Australian car magazines - and the 'near 50/50 weight distribution' is often mentioned. But I have yet to find it in Nissan's own words as it were. Still looking!
  7. I don't know that Nissan made parts available for the wet legs, apart from the gland nuts, as they offered their own inserts... CAF might know... Is one 'stopper' still intact, can you have a new pair machined up in a matching plastic or nylon, or maybe better yet in aluminium? Talk to a machine shop. Or some friendly DIY person with a lathe in their home workshop... There has been talk on this forum previously about spring non-capture when installing short springs to lower the ride height. Some didn't seem concerned, as you say just don't get airborne! - one even suggested wiring the springs in place; but others including myself considered it a safety issue and surely not roadworthy nor insurance compliant. Not to mention a PITA during front end maintenance. You say 30-40mm, that seems a lot - I once tried King Springs lows on my 260 and they were barely captured at one end and too short by about 12mm at the other so I didn't proceed.
  8. Am not surprised. HK would surely not be an ideal place to keep a classic car, thanks to a mix of salt air, humidity, fairly high rainfall, and, so I've been told, for the better heeled who live in elevated areas 'up in the clouds' with all the airborne moisture that that entails.
  9. I'm not clear what you are trying to do? Replace original damper assemblies with KYB cartridges? Or replace old KYB cartridges with new ones? IIRC, although it's been many years, once you unscrew the gland nut the original damper 'guts' or cartridge as applicable just slide up and out. Both will be, or should be, dripping in oil, as even self-contained cartridges are installed in oil to provide heat transfer.
  10. Trying to help. Have looked through much of the S30 data I have collected over the decades for that elusive 'official' S30 front/rear weight distribution info and no joy as yet. In various data charts I have, the weight distribution cell, if there is one, is blank. The JAF 260Z 2+2 homologation info provides probably every dimension and component weight one would ever want, but no front/rear weight distribution figures. Maybe Nissan never published the figures, and it's been owners who have had their cars measured for their own purposes? FWIW, the JAF info states total weight of the 2+2 with normal equipment, water, oil and spare wheel, but without fuel nor repair tools, to be 1,110kg (2447 lbs). Almost 200kg heavier than an early 2-seater. Guess you'll have to find an owner of a stock 2+2 to help as you say. Your engineer would have fun assessing an old 911, which I understand to be around 40/60...!!!
  11. That's a bit harsh. People on this forum are generally very helpful, IF they have the right information. I doubt if many if any have felt the need to have their car weighed front and back. The Zeds are generally known to have roughly 50/50 weight distribution, either wheelbase. With some variance depending on live loads such as driver, petrol etc. AFAIK and my understanding is that a barely wet 240Z is likely 51/49 front/back, but that reverses with a full tank of gas. A 2+2 is a bit heavier and a touch more at the back, but that can be offset by a big lump of A/C gear up front if fitted as many 2+2s in Australia were. So why don't you get your engineer to base start with the 50/50 scenario and then calculate the effect the V8/trans weight will have in place of the i6/5-spd's weight. Info on USA forums would indicate there's little in it if the V8 is alloy. The unanswered question remains: what variance (%?) will he accept?
  12. Well that went well... But a 1938 BMW R71 Nice...
  13. Curious. If the engineer wants to use distribution percentages as a determining factor then has he said what margin of difference will constitute a pass vs a fail? I believe the Zeds are generally considered to have around 50/50 weight distribution, which alters rearward depending on whether there is a driver and maybe also a passenger included and how much fuel is carried.... Info posted online by those in the USA who have done the alloy LS1 & T56 substitution for the Datsun i6 and 5-speed indicates there is little between those engines weight-wise. Also that the only slightly heavier V8 sits further back than the i6 which further helps its case. PS. would Kennards or the like have scales for rent by any chance? With the car sitting dead level simply weigh one wheel at a time. Would be interesting to see what the difference is at each corner...
  14. Ditto what Gav says. The blue or black enamel shrinks over the decades and falls out. Even if new they aren't that good - I have 3 NOS ones in dry dark storage where the clear coating over the blue enamel has yellowed so the chrome in the centre area looks gold. Meaning they would have to be stripped before using or they would look odd. FWIW, of the ones I have there are two versions, one being less rounded at the corners than the other. But close enough.
  15. Nothing silly about that idea. Something of a close diameter to the wheel hub that will push on, firmly, maybe add a dab of silicone sealant to hold it in place. I don't think any of the old school alloy wheel centres, like Cheviot or ROH, would work as they are designed to clip into the hole.
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