PeterAllen

Is this it? http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/pictures?userid={7DC317B0-8EDB-4B2E-A837-F708D07C9769}&inv=9C67398D46D99D9&userid={7DC317B0-8EDB-4B2E-A837-F708D07C9769}&AlbumId={309A8989-EFAC-4199-BC0D-20A43798D8B5}&inv=9C67398D46D99D9&GroupId={64D7F6E5-FC1B-4926-959F-38050E1ABD0D}&nt=a

Tim - The inspectors will be all over you on this one. Those mounting points are lab tested to ensure ADR standards and you cannot alter the configuration. See if you can get to the rear of the nut via removing some of the trim and roof lining. If you can, drill out the thread and feed a bolt (the same dia as an existing standard bolt) through from the rear and tighten it down with a thin nut. You then have a male fitting rather than the standard female and you can reattach the seatbelt anchor plate.

I have 4 off, 16"x 7.5", rims for sale. I don't know the brand. These will not fit a 240Z with standard suspension which I have just found out... bugger! They should fit a Zed with coilovers or a whole range of cars with a 4x114.3 stud pattern. 30mm offset and 139mm backspace. Pick up only. Inspection welcome. $400. Two reasonable tyres and two unreasonable tyres.

Wasn't this place was it? That's where I got mine. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360203153676&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3AOU%3AAU%3A1123

Thanks, but that's not it. Could it be a non-'72 240Z rack that someone has fitted? Were 260Z racks different?

I'm just trying to refit the steering rack with rubbers I recently purchased. When I removed the rack I noticed the rubber (red) on the larger mount was not making a complete circle around rack. I now find that the new rubber (black) is even smaller. I appreciate that it will spread somewhat when I actually clamp it but it will still be some way short of completely encircling the rack. What's the go here?

Quite some time ago (late 1960s) Mike Gore (remember him) was a car salesman at Liverpool Datsun and he organised a Datsun day at Oran Park. All the Datsun models were available for anyone with a road licence to drive - even the latest 1600. There would be an experienced driver/observer in the passenger seat. After waiting for half an hour swatting flies I made my way to the head of the queue and waited anxiously for the next car to pit. You can imagine my delight when a bog standard Datsun 1000 pulled up in front of me. I had never been around the track but I had been a keen spectator since the first meeting held there. I jumped in and drove fairly smoothly, mostly taking the right line and even passing the 1600 over the dogleg. When we arrived back at the pits after the final lap the observer gave me a scoresheet which was basically 8/10. I was pretty chuffed and kept it for ages but it was lost a long time ago, pity really because I'm going to the Tasman Revival in November and it would have been great to get Kevin Bartlett to sign it again!

Just a reality check. Note the details of the silver Zed. Lot #118 = 1971 Datsun 240Z Coupé Chassis no. HS30-01903 sold for £13,225 ($23,373AUS) This right-hand drive, five-speed 240Z was delivered new to the UK and first registered here on 1st January 1972, making it one of the earliest to reach these shores. The Datsun was immediately exported to South Africa (papers available) and was acquired there in 1986 by the previous owner, who kept the car for the next 24 years and brought it back to the UK when he emigrated in 2006. Totally restored in 1994, it is described as completely standard apart from a free-flow exhaust, ported cylinder head, electronic ignition and a lightened/fully balanced crankshaft. The car is finished in silver with black interior and is described by the private vendor as in generally very good/excellent condition. A 'delight to drive quickly', this Japanese classic enjoys tax-exempt status as an historic vehicle and is offered with current MoT and Swansea V5 registration document. Big Sam on the other hand has quite some history. http://www.bonhams.com/cgi-bin/public.sh/WService=wslive_pub/pubweb/publicSite.r?sContinent=EUR&screen=lotdetailsNoFlash&iSaleItemNo=4655287&iSaleNo=18214&iSaleSectionNo=2#

I have concerns as to the durability of paint applied with common signwriting techniques - please advise if these concerns are unfounded.

I am squaring-off the tops of the door opening to facilitate sliding windows. What then happens is the top edge profile of the windscreen is not aesthetically sympathetic to the revised door opening. I wonder if I could merely paint a faux profile on the windscreen? Provided there was no wiper contact, would it last?

Peter - I like the image of Mrs T (?) knitting - reminds me of Madame Defarge. I can just imagine her yelling out to you, "Le guillotine, le guillotine" every time she spots an invoice for the restoration!

This might be something worth following. http://www.vord.net/cars/240z/index.htm and http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=readersrides&action=display&thread=86608 Not quite Hugo but interesting so far.

Thanks.

Makes perfect sense - thanks. No button on the 240Z

As stated with my earlier question about washer functioning I have never actually driven my car so I don't know how things work. I'm now looking at the blinker stalk and there appears to be far too many wires for merely left and right indicator functions. Does pulling it towards the driver activate the headlights, i.e flash the lights? Are there and other functions? Thanks

If you can get 2 cheap 500kg engine stands and about $150 of steel and ONE case of beer I can help you build it at Loui's place! Seriously. I have just finished with mine but there is no way I would ever let it go. Do yourself a huge favour and take Loui up on his offer. By having your own, with no pressure to return, it will work our far less stressful.

I'm not sure it's worth the effort and the risk of having more metal to rust. If you do go ahead, I agree with Lachlan that you need to roll some ribs into the panel. You really should focus on the frame rails as has been suggested and to that end you might want to give more consideration to full length rails - which can be very easily removed at a later date. Any strengthening of the sills should be in respect of side intrusion (e.g. P Brock crash) where a tubular component would be more suitable. I don't follow the market all that closely but the idea of ever increasing prices for early Zeds is a bit over-hyped in my opinion - never consider them a financial investment.

My apologies if I didn't make it clear. This has nothing to do with commonsense, it is an engineering regulations requirement designed for drivers fitting the lowest common denominator of mechanical understanding and appreciation (e.g. every female member of my family!). My car will be required to have a reservoir of at least 264.2cc capacity.

It is probably true that a large reservoir isn't needed but it is required. If you upgrade the brake calipers you must have a reservoir of sufficient capacity to activate all pistons with all brake material worn away. You need to measure the thickness of the pad material and then calculate the volume all pistons would displace in moving that distance. That volume must be at least matched by the capacity of the master cylinder reservoir.

My 3/72 240Z has never run whilst in my possession. I am moving the wiper control from the steering column to either a toggle or rotary switch on a fibreglass dash. Can someone advise me on whether pushing the washer button on the end of the stalk also activated a short wiper cycle or simply wets the windscreen. Thanks.

Place a copy of Marx's Manifesto in the glovebox!

I haven't tried to get a price here but does it work out cheaper importing into Australia a product that is made here and shipped to the US? http://www.nolathane.com.au/ I might add I wouldn't be surprised if that is the case!

Don't forget 'the Brickies'

I'm after OEM 16" rims I could pick up from a wrecker. I only what to use them when the car is in the garage but I need 16" to clear the calipers. There are a few Japanese makes and some GM, even Volvo, which have the stud pattern, Anyone know specifically of 16", possibly light commercials?

Adrian - I'm very impressed with your attitude and approach to this for a first-timer. I have a couple of comments you may wish to take on-board. If you alter the rotisserie mounts to an axis of rotation 75mm above the bumper bar mounts you will find the shell will rotate very very easily. Also, if you are installing a V8 you might want to consider stronger frame rails with built-in gearbox cross-member mounting points.