PeterAllen

It physically pains me to say how much I paid for the brakes and wheels but I'm happy and that's the important thing. Note: the suspension is still to be powdercoated. Woza's bracket fitted but rear main caliper still to be mounted

A couple of questions if I may: "Brake test is fine" - Could you elaborate a bit on this. Was this a visual and/or road performance examination? Retractable seat belt - Was your car originally fitted with retractable belts? Are you required to have similar belts, ie. both fixed or both retractable? Are fixed belts no longer acceptable? I bet you slept well last night! I am happy for you to PM me the replies if you prefer or give me a contact number. Thanks

I couldn't figure out how to add another photo to the previous post - so here is another picture of the front bracket.

Based on my own experience here are a few basic points: Two x engine stands = $50 each - eBay Steel for mounting brackets = $75 - steel supplier Extend the height of the stands by 300mm Bigger 4" castor wheels x 6 off = $45 - eBay Use existing mounting points on the shell (see photos) Make centre of rotation 75mm above the bumper bar mounting points. Paint red - critical for success! (edit) Forgot to add. To mount the shell all that is required are two mates and a carton of beer!

I've just spent most of my wife's saving on importing a fibreglass dash from the US and having it converted to RHD (the freight was twice the cost of the dash!). It's not the standard configuration as you can see from the photos. The conversion resulted in a little extra weight and I would now like to have a mould made so I could make a lighter version, but the cost of this whole exercise is just becoming too much. If 3 others were interested in this dash at $350 I would have a fibreglass shop make a mould and pop a few out, including a lightweight one for myself. Anyone interested? ... PLEASE.

I knocked one up quickly and cheaply that did the trick.

You are probably right. I was wrongly thinking more about my own 240Z is raising those issues. Most of my upgrades have been to 260Z/280ZX items, so considering you are starting with a 280ZX you should be right. Sorry to raise false alarms.

Why not a Viper V10! Oh, course you realise that with a bigger engine you will need a rearend to cope with the power and torque. Oh, and brakes to pull it up. Oh, and a master cylinder to handle the brake. Oh, and ...etc, etc.

1310 grams, actually! PS. I get the joke.

Woza - You might want to update the HydridZ thread with this request and/or group PM the HybridZ members who have added their names to the list.

Just an observation about the mounting of the other Zed on the rotisserie. Mine and others were mounted with the axis of rotation about 75mm above the bumper mounting points - it is a near perfect balance and allows one-hand rotation of the shell. It could be that the mounting bracket on the set up in the photo is mounted the wrong way around. Just trying to be helpful.

I had mine done 12 months ago. I had quotations from $1000 for sand blasting to $2500 for plastic bead blasting. The reported big concern with sand blasting is that an inexperienced operator can overheat the panel and cause it to stress relieve and warp. When you strip the shell you find there are not too many large panels anyway, i.e. no door skins or front mudguards (fenders). My decisions was to go to a place that was known and recommended by guys who had already restored cars. You also need to consider having an etch primer or the like applied straight away. I was going to have mine soda blasted but they could not apply a primer. The hassle of taking it to another place for priming with the risk of rain, or acidic hands being rubbed over it, made me choose a one-stop place. I went for the $1000 sand blast and prime, and I couldn't be happier. Rust damage in the usual places - poorly repaired previously. Must have removed 10kg of bog! (edit - Ignore the title of the second photo - it is a photo after blasting but before I removed the gearbox mounts)

I think this is the modification David is referring to. Note: you may have to remove some metal from the lower control arm as well (see arrow) so first check that it does not contact the crossmember before driving the car.

The fact that someone does not having complete command of the Queen's English does not warrant ridicule. A bit of tolerance and understanding is required. When you look at the standard their President has set over the past eight years I think 'bigblockfred' has done good! Now, back to selling this car.

I swore I would never submit a post of this nature but sometimes when the limits are overstepped action is required. The posts by Lurch and MR240Z on this thread are an embarrassment to both themselves and all the responsible members - grow up both. Where is the moderator? ... Oh sorry, he's the main perpetrator!

This whole reference to 'Arizona' is a misnomer. The Arizona Z rear kit is comprised of Wilwood hats, Wilwood rotors, Wilwood calipers, s/s hoses & mounting brackets. The only Arizona Z bits are the mounting brackets which are replaced by Woza's brackets. There is no need to buy the 'kit' from Arizona Z at all. Don't pay for something you don't need. Having stated that, Dave is the cheapest known supplier of the Wilwood parking caliper to Oz and may be the cheapest supplier of Wilwood items generally to Oz, and possibly US customers.

Your statement could create some ambiguity. Make sure you understand that the Wilwood items are NOT included - they are your responsibility. (edit: Nothing comes here from the US and is then shipped back as part of Woza's package)

Make it a rule that if you are going to work on your car do it properly. DON'T knock it off with a hammer and punch, use a 'C' spanner available at any bike shop or specialist suspension place. Check the OD as they come in different sizes. Also, even with the suspension on full extension there is still plenty of spring pressure. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Koni-motorbike-shocks-C-Spanner-NEW_W0QQitemZ220333105229QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories?hash=item220333105229&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Does anyone know: - where I can get one for an early Z, or - if someone has a mould? I want to modify it, so one in any condition will do. Thanks

Don't know if this will help or add to confusion. I have 3/72 240Z and it has the lighter in the dash and nothing in the console. The instruments are imperial (MPH etc). I got the car in bits so there is no certainty it's the original dash but I'm fairly confident it is. Also, on the dash below the lighter there is a similar shaped indentation which has a tumble lock - like a small ignition switch. Anyone know what that's about? Have a look at the car on the '240Z Dump or restore' thread - may help.

Sir Jack, 40+ years ago I would skip school and go to Friday practice of the Tasman round. It was easy to slip under the fence and wander through the pits. I have a great collection of 'slides' from those days, including some of the Ferrari and BRM. I couldn't resist so I took a sickie today and went out again - FABULOUS!

Interesting thread here on metal v aluminium brackets. I know they are referring to the front brackets and this is under race conditions, but you may have buyers just wanting them because they are steel. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139794

It would need to pass the test in table LG2 on page 13. http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP5_Section_LG_Brakes_3Feb2006.pdf

If you are old enough to remember these cars and close to Sydney, I suggest you get out and have one last look. I suspect they will be off to the UK and USA, or the Gulf, on Monday. It's $20 for a catalogue and that lets two people into a viewing - well worth it. http://www.bonhamsandgoodman.com.au/auctions_catalogues.php?auction=280 Just a tip - wear on old shirt, that way you don't need to worry about your saliva dribbling! Here are some photos I took today.