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Hi all, Held on to these in case I bought another Z but the way prices are going I can't see that happening unless I win Powerball.....sooooo not likely. At this stage it is an EOI as I really don't want to sell thejm but if someone wants them and is willing to offer the right money I'd let them go as I have a number of other projects that could use the funds, otherwise will make a great piece of garage wall art. Best contact is 0403783392 as I'm not here all that often. Thanks

Yes Paul, still for sale at this stage, 0403783392

Yes it does, so they're ready to drop straight in and bolt up, that alone should make them worth at least oooohhh a million I rekn............sorry haven't been here for a while

Even though I sold both my Zeds some time ago I still have some parts that are left over and therefore surplus to my needs at this stage. I'm open to offers, yes I have a figure in mind but would like to see what people might think they're worth as I have been out of the scene for a while and prices do fluctuate. The seats as far as I know, and as I was told when I bought them, are genuine Bride fixed back race f/g seats, I just barely get in them so would suit someone with a small to medium build frame if comfort is important.

0419383759

Romeo I don't really have many pics. Brabham I'm looking to sell with extras at this sateg, if it sells without I'll put them up separately. Thanks

SOLD

http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/05/old-meets-new-rocky-autos-rb30-powered-fairlady-z/

Looks like it still currently is http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/71-Datsun-240z-great-restorer-all-rust-exposed-/190673688082?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item2c65099612

I know it's been on their for some time and I have no issue with selling something you have available for sale, it's actually illegal to advertise a product that you do not have or mislead with your description, also it's against ebay advertising guidelines to advertise a product falsely. I'ts basically the same as a phishing email where you get people to deal with you under false pretences. The other thing that I found fishy was how he was debating whether or not to buy back the wreck of a car that he had advertised for $35K for a mere $4K when he had another body that he could have easily transferred all the parts. Like I said initially he was trying to sell it without actively selling it, it's like letting you think it's your idea "Oh wo is me, what shall I do?? Such a dilemma"................."Hey I'll take it off your hands". I had an accident in my Typhoon last year and the insurance company deemed it a financial write off, first thing I asked was can I buy it back, they said yes and I didn't even pause. Besides it's now been pulled by the look of things, when I checked earlier it wasn't their anymore.

unless he's a friend of yours then I think you're thinking too much, besides the guy only joined to 'tell' us about it, kind of rude I rekn, not to mention dodgey

No I'm not going to buy it, does that mean I can't comment or post on the subject?? :'(

In all honesty between 15-20 would be a realistic price, closer to the 15 though. This all depends on how quickly you need to move it, so the quicker the cheaper. I think people need to realise that the crazy silly money that was going around 4-5 years ago has disappeared, these cars were getting 20 then so to ask 20 now might be a bit much. That's not to say you might not get it so if you want give it a go but remember it might be sitting around for a while. One of the guys here has a pretty shmick 260 that's been going for a while and he's dropped his price a couple of times. Wothout having seen full exterior and interior pics I can only guess that it's a daily or regular driven car from your description which means stone chips and maybe some faded paint. You did mention that the tailgate has some cracks in the paint, probably more due to the previous paint work thatn anything else but this means that there could well be more waiting to show its head. By no means am I suggesting that there's anything wrong with the car but in a daily/regular driven condition 14-15 might be closer to what you would get. I recall a white 240 a few months ago around Werribee going for around 17, it sold but even at that price it was their for a while, also I just had a quick look on carsales and all the 40'z on their are around 18-19 so if you need to move it then putting it in for 16 would certainly get you some attention. Oten it's easier advertising at close to your bottom dollar so that prospective buyers can feel like there still getting to haggle you down and feeling like they won, very important quicker sale. So if you'd be happy with 15-16 then put it in for around 18, oh and if they want to go further then start removing things like rego or any add ons like wheels, they soon come around. At the end of the day though if people are coming up to you then ask them what they'd be willing to offer, if it works then go for it.

Also here is a link to the current ad, all I did was follow the one in the 'ebay thread', they haven't changed the description since before the car even got here but there is definitely no mention of any damage, pretty clear it's the same car http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1973-Datsun-240Z-Blue-M-Coupe-/280763192731?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item415eca559b&clk_rvr_id=286973060052

Etiher way it's false and misleading advertising and I'm pretty sure that fishing ads are illegal in Oz, could be wrong.

Oh and if again some of you think I'm being harsh then just remember that this thread was started July 17th, that's 5 months ago and yet the car is still for sale on ebay. The bullshit'o'meter doesnt go doo doo doo doo for for nothing you know

Far more relevant than the jibber jabber going on here is why is this car still on ebay with no mention of damage and being described as 'immaculate'. Plus considering it would most likely have been converted to RHD why then doesn't the owner buy it back and source an RHD shell and transplant what's usable while sourcing all the other bits to finish the car off. I'm at a loss to understand how the owner doudous is asking what people think while at the same time still obviously owns the car or else how do you explain that the ad has been on ebay this entire time. Sorry but my bullshit radar seems to be peaking today.

I find that difficult to believe these days, most people are pretty well educated when it comes to older cars these days seeing as every home and just about every phone these days have the internet. As for the pricing I think it's more a case of hiding in plain sight, keeping it at the lower end of the scale makes it seem like a bargain and easier to fish with. I could be wrong but I highly doubt it.

^^AGREE 100%^^ Mate unless it has to be an S30 you could find a Z31 Californian Turbo for that or even less if you look around, later model, heavier (reinforced) shell, better performance and look good in the pearl white with bone leather interior. But if it has to be this shape/model then walk on away from this, my biggest concern is the reg plates which indicate to me that the current owner probably hasn't owned it very long and is just trying to get rid of a bad decision they'd made. Or they have had it for a while and simply did a 'Slap Up Sally" to move it. As others have said regarding price $8K is high, something like this would go for around $5K< without reg and because you're transporting interstate you need to consider it unreg'd as you'll have to get it through local roadie. Going through the "goodies" reads like a ricers shopping list I guess and would be more at home on the front door, again it's almost as if they've slapped on/in a heap of bits to move it. You don't go putting in and replacign so many bits without spending some money and time on the bodywork. The description of the rust as being "tiny bubbles" is laughable, the rust on the door looks about the size of a fist, so either theis persons a giant or has no idea. Oh and if this person is a member here then they should be ashamed for trying to move such a POS at this price with a description that clearly shows them as a shonk. Am I being a bit harsh?? Only if you think that trying to profit off the back of good honest cars is right.

Soda blasting should actually be washed, that's right water, right off and right through the entire car, then baked dry, garnet is one of the best. Also soda does not clean rust as effectively, walnut shell is another option, never used it but would be softer than garnet. Then their is also the recyclability of garnet, as lomg as you cleaned all the grease off first.

It all comes down to how you treat your car and how it is kept. If you plan to leave it outside alot, then go the 2 Pak finish as it will outlast Acrylic by a mile, however if you plan to keep it in a garage most of the time and really only bring it out occasionally then the Acrylic might be a btter option. Also you mention I think you want to do it yourself, unless you hire a booth, I really wouldn't advise using 2K in an unventilated environment. As for going with an enamel, they tend to need alot of maintanence.

Ok first thing, if you're going to bare metal finish the car then forget Soda Blasting. Secondly, and more importantly to all those looking at doing this, the soda used is actually an alkali with a pH of around 8.4. What's this got to do with anything you ask, and so you should. Unless you get absolutely all the soda residue cleaned off your body before you start the moment that stuff gets wet you can say goodbye to all your hard work. It will start to eat away at your precious metal faster than you'll find and repair it, it usually seeps through under the paint work as it's sealed underneath and you'll notice bubbles pretty quick. A good fine/medium garnet is the best solution. Even if you're only taking off one layer, which is where the soda comes into play, you need to make sure to wash/clean and dry the whole car before you start any prep work. But if that's all you're doing then I'd still suggest either an orbital sander or vibrating sander with some 180/240 grit paper and a little bit of elbow grease. my 2.2 cents

10 mm tops only needs a few degrees.

Hey some warning is better than none at all, and besides I'm sure you could set a different pressure at which it came on. And ye they are idiot lights, coz most idiots don't know what they're for, take it from someone that used to tow alot of cars because people had no idea it was a bad thing when the light came on, that's why they're called idiot lights. I had one lady who had not only lights on the dash all light up but buzzers going off and she kept going, even when smoke started pouring out from under the bonnet she still kept going, till the car stopped. It was the so called "idiot light" that saved me and only did a pump instead of potentially doing a complete engine and box at the drag track in April last year, if I hadn't noticed it at the staging line I would have really made a mess of things. That's why most flash rather than just stay on, if yours doesn't then make it do so, you could also put a buzzer on the system to make sure you don't miss both, a buzzer going off at the same will make you look. Oh ye and at 6500rpm if you didn't notice a skip in the beat, hmmm it would be much easier to pick up something wrong with the engine at higher load rather than idle/puttering around.

Humidity makes the greatest difference to how quickly surface rust will appear.