dalee

Thought i'd ask here before ringing around the Z shops, I am after - Left and right rear interior panels for a 240z (ones in the boot) - 4 standard steel rims (ie ones your spare is on) if you have a couple kicking around from parts cars i'm interested - ash tray from the 71 model - one with the fold up lid Dale

I'll have one of everything please. (anyone know the tatts numbers for this weekend)

Having all three options 1. auto, 3.54dif 2. stick, 3.54dif 3. stick, 3.9dif IMO, if its performance you are after go option 3. The Standard manual dif 3.9, will give you 3400rpm @ 70mph and more go from a standing start Option 2, is great for fuel economy and long journeys, 70mph = 2700rpm, but that cars a bit of a slug off the line. Dale

Sounds like a plan, keep us informed of how it all goes.

Thanks Rod, but its allright, I ended up ordering a new one from Warren at All ZParts in Sydney, just added it to my existing order for the bumber bar rubbers (container as been sitting on docks since 20/7 in Sydney - dam APEC, hope they come soon) Dale

You got me interested , what did you find !!! Photos?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DEEP-DISH-OLD-SCHOOL-WHEELS_W0QQitemZ300146390901QQihZ020QQcategoryZ6782QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I tried a set of 13inch rims on the 240z on Sunday, mate was going to donate them to the z cause, pcd was correct but they wouldn't fit over the standard front disk and caliper. Zed's came out with standard 14inch, ebay buyers beware.

My 11/72 has the lever adjustment and the 11/70 has the rotating dial and silver thingos (technical term) in the cushions. Having both types I personally find the early seats painful, as it limits your ability to put stuff in the back & access the jack bins. Only the purests would notice the difference but, if you want original you need some dial seats. Can take a photo tonight if it helps. My first car way back in 1995 (RIP, 11/70, No 300ish), had the seat dials, but it also didn't have rear bins, so access was not really a problem.

Daniel Moore contact details 98082590 shop 0409167866 mob can't remember exactly were the shop is, just give him a buz He works on zeds all the time

Hi Guys I am after the hot/cold regulator (tap) that mounts on the drivers side of the 240z heater core. Tried Bursons, and all they have is the generic straight through cable operated variety. Unfortunately I can't make it fit, need one with the 90 degree bend in it. Thanks Dale

Sulio will go to an lengths to get some good video of zed's, even in the rain. Great w/end guys, I'm definately up for another one later on in the year.

Sorry George At the moment, um er, yes. :-[its a bit of a mess, havt taken to much so its still complete, only missing - dash is out cause i wanted the heater core - brakes - front & rear struts - fuel tank - all interior - centre console & radio - coil, hoses, wheels, rubbers, b/bars, tail light surround.......... GOOD news is engine & transmission are good (mind you I can't start it) and its being kept in a dry garage.

Thanks Guys Checked the resistor and its alright, the car has electronic ignition (learnt something last night) so it can't be the points. So back to square one with no tacho. Does anyone know what the purpose of the small bridging clip is on the back of the tacho? All mine have a white wire that just does a loop back to the connector, and a small plastic spacer under the bridging clip which the white wire runs through. White does not connect to bridging clip it just appears to be some sorta retainer the keep the wire neat. Any other ideas would be much appreciated, Taking the car down to Flemington for a show-n-shine on Sunday so if anyone else is coming down look out for the red zed and say g'day, most probably I will be parked next to my mates red R31 GST2. Its $12 entry and $12 entry for spectators so if you are looking for something to do let me know. Dale

Thanks guys, found the problem, the red wire had dislodged from the switch on the steering column, bit of solder and it works again. Don't know how I missed it when putting the cover back on, but at least its fixed.

Ok electrics are giving the ............... When the dash came out everything worked fine. Got the head lights working again but had power to the fan and radio all the time, fixed that Saturday so they just ran off accessories. Mounted fuse box connected all heater controls, and no headlights. They will work if i put a wire across the fuse box from the big white & red wire to their fuse. So i think that means the realy is fine. The problem is no power is getting to the 2 fuses for the head lights. It has me stumped. I don't believe I have touched nothing when getting the radio & fan working, I just spliced a wire running from the accessories fuse. Any ideas, on what I sould be checking next? Please help Thanks Dale

Dash back in and the tacho worked, took it out, put it back and spent the next 2 1/2 hrs trying to work out why it will not go. Its not the tacho its self, i resorted to pulling the one out of a z that works, plugged it in and nothing! All up i have tried 3 seperate tachos, 2 are perfect and one plays up above 5000rpm I have tried to find the resistor zedrally mentioned but i am not really clued up when it comes to elecs, and don't have any idea what I am looking for. Could you guys tell me where to look (more sprecific the better), and what to look for! So I can at least rule the resistor out. Cheers from the snow fields in Ballarat

"Interesting" is the only word i have for it. Give me the classic z shape any time

Thanks guys, looks like the parts car will lose a resistor That tacho worked fine all the to 7,000

I went for a run in a mates R32 couple months ago and he had the fully electronicly adjustible suspention set up. Litttle motors on top of the struts letting him adjust everthing, on the run as the road dictates. But at $2500 not cheap

tacho has been fine up until i did the GOR run. Only happens at 5,000 rpm, the needle just goes spastic and bounces from 0 to 8k. Everything below that it all works fine, Pulling the heater core out this weekend and will probably pull the whole dash, get it plastic welded up and tidy up all those wires, so will have more of a look then but I have no idea when it comes to elec stuff. Any ideas!

Went of the GOR run with NSDOC on Sunday, fantastic day for it and great roads. I got a magnificent run from Anglsea to Apollo Bay, only 10km stuck behind people. Up to Lavers Hill back to the bay and out through Forest. They are doing road works out from skenes creek to forrest, widening the road, so it will be even better when they are finished. They have not sealed it yet number of spots there was gravel all over the corners, scary moments, and yea its sign posted at 60, mhp! We were 1hr late on the advertised leaving time into Anglsea, only missed then by 5 min through, and had to catch up in Apollo Bay. Couple of other z's on the run, they turned back early, so I missed catching up with them. No photos, to busy driving.

I need the above front and rear, inc overriders. 2 sets. Does anyone know where to get these in Aust, or do you have to order from the states. Also need the orig top breather hose (braded look) for valve cover.

Lots of photos, check. LOL - friend has already bags my passenger seat, hope they don't get car sick!

Jobs are never ending Sulio, I got a few job done on mine over the w/end Dropped the fuel tank (leaking when full) & found a nice rust hole on the top that had been patched, replaced with another. Chgd coils cause this one looks better (snaped the lead in the process) Who is coming on the GOR run with NSDOC on Sunday 27/5 (this sunday) I am taking my 240z down for a squirt, always a bit of fun. Dale

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Number-Plates-4-Nissan-Datsun-240Z-260Z-300ZX-QUIKZ_W0QQitemZ260112109533QQihZ016QQcategoryZ72527QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Come on sulio, u know u want these!