Alfadog

It's running triple Dellorto 40s. Not having much luck unfortunately The car ran well a few weeks ago before being transported from WA to VIC. I have now: Replaced the Distributor cap and rotor Cleaned up alternator and battery grounds Wired in a temp ground from distributor to chassis Still no luck.

Some more side projects over the last few days, as I'm trying to get it ready for RWC (suggestions welcome). 1. Horn didn't work. Most of you will be familiar with the notoriety of these things being loose, so I was surprised when I couldn't really get mine off! Yanked it off to find it had been 'glued on' using silicone sealant. Quite a lot of it seeped out and in between the two metal contact plates, therefore stopping any chance of them meeting when horn pad was pressed. Cleaned off the silicone and re-assembled, voila, we have horn! 2. Tail lights go on when parkers are on, but not when tail lights are on. I decided to take apart all the stalks etc. to inspect and give them a clean up since the problem seemed to be bad contacts. The way it operates is very clever but basically this part operates with two little plastic knobs suspended by tiny springs that move a wafer thin contact piece across the different points. Over time the plastic deteriorates/wears down. You can kinda see below one of them in particular is quite worn. So I dabbed on some superglue to the top to build it up again (these things are TINY!) Re-assembled... voila! We have tail lights again. And here are the stalks cleaned up. Cleaned this up with warm water, soap and a toothbrush. 3. Also cleaned up the stainless steel sill plates as they were really in need of it. Used a steel wire brush and lots of degreaser to clean it up. I had to resist getting the metal polish out... these were more a satin finish from factory, not polished. If I was brave I'd have a go at beating out the small dents but this metal is so thin I don't trust myself. Anyway looks a million times better already.

One of the big problems was intermittent cranking! Investigated a lot but in the end was a pretty straight-forward fix. 1. Bought a multimeter, checked battery. Good healthy 12.5V. The +ve terminal had electrical tape over it, so took the liberty of replacing the terminal and putting on some caps to protect them in future. 2. Checked the battery ground, and cleaned it up anyway. Was ok. 3. Bought a remote-starter kit from online but while waiting for it to arrive found out this trick - remove the ignition wire and use an insulated screwdriver to bridge between that and the power terminal. This effectively closes the loop and will start the ignition. This worked a charm - and showed that its not the starter motor as suspected since its new. 4. However what this did show was the female spade connector from the ignition was pretty damn dirty. So I replaced this just in case, but it wasn't the issue either. 5. Next up is the switch itself. The keyed ignition is made of two parts - the key barrel and the switch. Often the little tongue gets bent so the connection isn't quite lined up to where it should be. Didn't seem to be the case for mine. I also had the same problem trying to switch on the engine directly from the switch, so it's not the barrel. It must be the switch or the wiring... 6. Went down to the Z Shop in Glen Iris and finally got to meet Lyndsay. He was very generous with his time and knowledge - and wow what a huge workshop it is. I bought a 2nd hand switch from him and tried it out. No luck unfortunately... so I took a look under the dash. 7. I found this discreet looking black box. Doesn't quite look right - so opened it up and surely not a stock Japanese 70's bit of kit! This is a Dynamco immobiliser. I'm going to hazzard a guess that this is part of the problem. 8. I carefully took apart all the electrical tape holding the thing together and tagged all the wires before cutting the immobiliser loose. As you can see it was a bit of a mess under there. 9. No more immobiliser. I was ready to be disappointed - but put the switch and barrel on and tried again with the key to see what would happen. SUCCESS! Cranks without any issue. Problem resolved. While I was at it, I restored the ignition key barrel surround. Ignore the fitment of the plastic encasing - it appears I am missing a few screws.

Hi all I've been posting a few help topics so thought I better introduce myself and the car. Brief History: The S30Z has got to be my all-time favourite car. Sure there are others more beautiful, more exotic or even more ground-breaking however at the end of the day the Z simply does everything it was designed to do so well, and plays such an important role in the history of Japanese cars and sports cars in general. My first car was a silver 1970 240Z purchased back in 2001. Still remember its VIN - HS30-001031. Good times were had. I cleaned it up a lot, fixed up some of the tired mechanicals, fitted an exhaust and stereo and that was about it. It was really this car that started my obsession with classic Japanese autos. Owned the car for about 3 years until I acquired an immaculate 1-owner Datsun 240K 3 years later which forced the sale of the Z - but that's another story!! Here's a pic of the silver Z. The Search: I have spent the last ~2 years without owning a car at all, while focusing on home renos. When I started looking seriously again about 6 months ago I was considering an R32GTR, an early step-nose Giulia or a 240Z. In the end I figured the R32 could become very expensive and not that 'fun' to own, the Giulia would be gorgeous but I knew all about Alfa ownership as my dad has had a lot of them... and as I found myself scouring the net for Z's for sale more and more - the choice became clear. I looked at a few cars, but in the end have bought a nice white 1971 car from WA owned by a member on this forum (original build thread). A lot of the 'big stuff' had been done, but by no means was this 'finished'. Spec: Engine: Original L24, rebuilt in 2013 50thou over size flat top pistons Bored and decked block Reconditioned E88 head - Larger valves, new guides, new seats and seals fitted Performance Camtech 702 cam fitted with double valve springs ARP Rod bolts New Oil Pump, Water pump, starter and reconditioned Alternator Rebuilt Triple Delortto DLHA 40's Petronix Electronic ignition Alloy Radiator Other Mechanical: New Bushes fitted throughout Arms and subframes sandblasted and painted New Steering Tie rods Reconditioned front brake calipers R200 (? ratio) diff Body: Full body Respray in 908 White New window seals Shaved front and rear badges Interior: Mostly original - pretty tired and missing a few bits!

Yep! In Australia it was standard on the 240Z. This particular operation I thought was just on the "earlier" cars?

Hi all Seems I've got a few electrical gremlins - most I've figured out but not so sure about this - facts are: - 1971 240Z with 'pass button' highbeam flasher on end of indicator stalk - High beams do work when lever pulled towards driver - High beams do not work when 'pass button' is pressed - A single black wire is hanging with nowhere to go, as shown below. Help please? I have taken the indicator unit off and had a look but very tricky to get inside where that pass button operates! Not going to go taking it all apart unless I have to.

OK I took a step back and decided to check that it's a spark issue - pulled a plug and tested it - all was well. As HKSZ suggested the plug seemed fouled again though so pulled them all and gave a quick once over with a copper brush. Then it started first time again, easy. A bit hard to keep it alive when cold but pretty normal in my experience. However what isn't normal is the carb backfiring every now and then, even at idle. Idle seems to get slower and slower until it dies. Does that sound like a timing issue to you guys?

Thanks guys. Car has not been sitting for a long time, I drove it home from the depot and it ran OK but not great (occasional carb backfire, stumbling under load). I don't know how old the battery is (can't find markings on top) but seems ~3-5 yrs. It's 520CCA. The coil is one of these Pertronix 'flamethrower' units, 3 Ohms. I haven't touched the timing... sounds like now might be the time to learn how. Got to get it running first..

All, Recently purchased a 240Z from interstate and now having a few troubles actually getting it to start reliably. First it was only cranking intermittently - after a bit of investigation found it was a dodgy immobiliser. Removed that and the issue is solves - but still not quite right - think I'm not getting spark. Car has a Pertronix elec ignition set up and a 3 Ohms coil. Ballast resistor has been removed. I cleaned and regapped the spark plugs (changed from 0.039 to 0.043 given the elec ign) and was able to start and drive it, however it stuttered and carbs backfired a bit. Now maybe it was a fluke but I can't get it going again. After attempts to start, it does smell like unburnt fuel so I think fuel is being provided. I have so far: - Checked voltage at battery - 12V - Removed the red Ignitor wire from the coil positive terminal and connected a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery directly to the red Ignitor wire. Attempted start - no dice. - Measured the voltage at coil when key is in the 'on' position - 10V - Measured resistance at coil - seemed to settle at 4.5Ohms - Checked dizzy cap - one of hte clips was broken so have temporarily secured with zip-tie! - Replaced distributor grounding wire - Tried to follow the instructions at this site however they say "Rotate the magnet sleeve in front of the module" - however I can't seem to do this. It only budges side to side a smidge. One thing I have noticed is that the wiring doesn't seem to match the Pertronix installation instructions. I have 2 wires from both the +ve and -ve terminals of the coil. Also note I have a wire that is hanging loose near the distributor that is leading to nowhere! (As a side note, I seem to have a few electrical gremlins. Windscreen washer doesn't work, wipers dont return to horizontal, tail lights go off when lights switch from parkers to headlights, horns dont work) - all to be fixed in good time! First is getting it started though Any other ideas? I am running short now...

Thanks everyone for the suggestions- I recharged the battery, cleaned the plugs and changed gap from .039 to .043 (it has a Pertronix ignition), and it started! The real test will be if I can start it from cold again. And then I've got to get this thing tuned. It does not run well.

Yep interested in meeting the Melb folk and show the new z (if I can get it going!)

Hi all I eventually found the cause of an intermittent starter issue (crappy immobiliser), but now that I can reliably crank the engine I can't get it to start. Engine is L24 with triple Dellortos. No choke is hooked up but I figured it should start with a few pumps of the accelerator first. However, it just doesn't seem to want to go. Is there a trick I'm missing?

I'm in need of a VIC roadworthy certificate asap, however my carbs have filters on without an airbox. Simple question - any chance of a roadworthy without an airbox? From what I gather, answer is no. More complicated question - what's the way around this for aftermarket (triple) carbs? I figure it might be possible to find a stock airbox and try to modify it to fit? Any ideas or previous experiences would be appreciated!

Hm I could be mistaken but they look like standard S31 mirrors to me?

Welcome! Your previous posters look great. Looking at these, I am guessing you're going for more a 'fun an interesting' than 'anorak' vibe, right? With this in mind, I think it would definitely be more interesting if you included some of the key S30 models worldwide, not just US. In particular, the Japanese domestic market were treated with a wide range of models from factory which were not offered anywhere else. Google Fairlady 240ZG, Z432 and Z432-R ! You could even do a police car like you did with the Maverick.

Thank you Jamie for your courtesy, patience and flexibility! It's not easy selling a car interstate. I picked up the car from the depot yesterday and babied her home. Boy it's great to be back behind the wheel of a Z. As I knew, there is still plenty to do with this car, so will be becoming more active here soon I expect. Here's a picture after arrivingly safe at home. P.S. I would be happy to recommend CEVA Logistics to anyone needing transport. It was $780 from Perth to Melbourne (enclosed on train) and car arrived quickly and most importantly without any damage!

wow! Also, what are peoples' experiences with these? Anyone tried them? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271285568194?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Or you could buy 2nd hand and get it repaired ... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-Nissan-1973-240z-rear-bumper-/281305652878?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item417f1f9e8e

Uhh yep, consider them sold (to me).

Everything about that car is so wrong... :/

Looks like a 2+2 judging by the space between door and rear wheel arch..

Nah some of the 2nd did too. But those flat-tops ain't right! Looks like a lot of work

Very cool! Doesn't look too bad at all - cheap way to get into a very unique car. Just a pity it's not a coupe.

Alan's 260 sure does look amazing! A really great job you've done mate. However, I am really after a 240 and willing to spend between 15-25k depending on condition.

Still wanted

I never understood why people would spend that much time & money on putting a GTO kit on a Z and then ruin it with stupid tail lights like that...