maddos

Could the AFM not have been directly compatible and cooked your ECU?

Hi Peter. The voltage regulator they refer to in the manual is actually internal to the gauge. Try doing a swap if you have a spare. Mine went a couple of weeks ago.

I might be driving down Sunday morning to watch the racing at Wakefield.

Running much quieter now. Haven't checked the timing yet or valve clearances but it's on my to do list. Took for a drive and there's a small noise which I'm not sure isn't a bearing. Will take a/c belt off tomorrow and see how it sounds. Thanks again Pete. Now just need my extractors welded up properly and I might be game to do the drive to Goulburn Sunday.

Just about got it all back together tonight. The family's getting back from 10 days away and I'm pretty keen to spend some time with them, especially the wife. Hopefully tomorrow night she'll be ticking over with less chain slap. For those interested, the slack side chain guide I removed and replaced in what I thought was the original position is most likely my problem. Pete got me to adjust hard up against the chain then release tensioner which was cable tied up.

Think I'll cruise down on the Sunday to check this out. Was hoping to take the zed but with the grief I'm having putting engine back together may be a little optimistic taking it on a couple of hundred kilometer round trip test run. I'll have to take the wife's Murano instead to keep with the Nissan theme.

here's what it sounded like when I first reassembled.

That look better? Restores your faith in mankind when a total stranger actually calls YOU up to help with your problem. Can't thank you enough Peter

They say a pictures worth a thousand words so here's a short story. Here's some pics I took yesterday prior to reassembly. And below are some pics I took today when investigating. Hope you can make it out ok. From what I can tell everything appears as described. Hope something jumps out from the pics. Send me a message Peter if you want me to give you another bell.

Okay, briefly. I've been steered towards timing chain noise after a short checklist of other possibilities. Something I neglected to mention (Peter) was when I went in for the second time I removed the slack-side chain guide ::)don't know why thought it would make easier to put chain on or something. So after our conversation I pulled out the old How to rebuild.. Tom Monroe. I know, good time to start reading after the fact. But noticed it sounds kind of critical the adjustment of this. I thought I installed as removed going by bolt marks on guide but could have been out a bit. Could this also be a contributing factor?

Just had a good chat with Peter Mac. Hopefully I can get it back on track with his advice.

I have got the engine back together and running but I stuffed up along the way and hope I haven't created another problem. When i first put the head back on I had the timing chain marked to the sprocket so as not to mess it up. However I stilled managed to. What i did was put the sprocket back onto the cam onto number 1 when it came off number 2 when I pulled apart. Prior to firing engine in this first attempt, I did a compression test to make sure everything seemed right. Compression was fine and engine turned over fine without any issues. I then completed putting everything back together and fired up. Ran fine but sounded like a diesel around the head area. After thinking about it overnight, I removed the tappet cover which is when I noticed my error with the cam sprocket. As I was trying to rectify, I managed to forget to put my chock back in and so began the whole process of timing cover removal and we all know what a long story that is so won't go into it. Second time round did the same thing turned engine over to check compression all good. Fired up again and I swear it sounds too noisy around the tappets. Hoped it was oil related so went bought new oil (same HPR30 as came out previously was in it) still sounded fairly noisy. Took for a test drive and drive and accelerated fine but could hear a tapping noise at cruising speed. I'd put foot on clutch while cruising to hear tapping go when engine revs dropped. I didn't touch anything on the head when I removed it only gave it a bit of a clean up and had no noise before pull down so don't really suspect tappet adjustment is the culprit. What I am wondering is if when I had the sprocket incorrect would there be the possibility of bending valves when I couldn't near any contact whilst doing the compression test? I'm hoping if they can't physically contact when engine isn't firing that they can't have been damaged when engine was firing. Please someone put my mind at ease.

Very informative Yosemite. I noticed this on my 1/75 model also having the later dated belts.

Do these numbers mean anything on the end of the cam?

Beautiful isn't it. Wish I had a bit through every pot.

Roadworthy done today so time to take a look.

I was hoping not to hear that I started it yesterday and no steam but didn't warm up fully. Just need to get it roadworthied before I do anything serious as my rego is due in a fortnight. This always happens around rego time

Think they have a + - adjustment on rear to adjust speed. Can you get at it from below after removing fan vents like the 260's?

On my way home from Wakefield a fortnight ago my car overheated in the last half hour of the 4 hour trip. Let the engine cool for half an hour and topped up with probably 5 litres of water. Ran the last half hour home with no problems. Checked radiator level next day and was probably 2 inches below full. At the time was blaming a faulty radiator cap possibly letting a bit out at a time as when I was giving it a wash when engine was barely warm noticed it bubble a little into the overflow bottle. Tonight took it for a drive into town 10 mins each way for pizza (not important). When I got home started looking at the oil pressure/ water temp problem which had decided to start fluctuating at Wakefield. Manual suggested if both varied, problem is likely voltage regulator inside gauge, so swapped gauge. Checked radiator water level again and was about 2 inches down again. Topped up again and ran engine for probably 15 mins while checking gauges. So now to my point after this long winded (for me anyway) tale. When running engine, my exhaust was extremely steamy and didn't seem to get any better. I pulled all the plugs but they all looked perfect. Checked oil, again perfect. Checked water level in radiator after cooling for about 5 min but was still full but didn't overflow any when pressure released. Put this down to water still being hot. So my question is, has anyone heard of (or had experience) of the head water jacket leaking straight to the exhaust somehow without leaving any other trace?

Fat old 260 2+2 with all the mod cons (a/c etc) Wakefield 1:22 dry track Bridgestone ER300 205/60/15 L28 with standard zx EFI. 3.54 diff. Mates 260 2+2 running the same day. 0.04 seconds faster Yoko 195/65/14 not sure cheapos L26 with british su's 3.9 diff.

You weren't at Wakefield today were you?

I've entered a supersprint event at Wakefield Park tomorrow. It's an invitational by the Lotus Club. I nominated the 2+2 for Marque Sports Class C due to the efi on the L series motor. Received the confirmation the other day and my and another 260 2+2 are entered in the N3B class which I assume is non-marque class. When I checked out the cams eligible vehicle list http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/02_race/c.%202nd%20Category/RA18_Group_2B-2F_EligibleVehicles_Q111.pdf noticed pretty much all zeds are included. Is this a ploy by the inviting club to keep us from running in their "exclusive" marque? My mate questioned the organiser when he was checking his entry and he pretty much said marque category was for lotus and jaguar and the like. I'm not expecting to win any categories or anything and not going to fight this all the way until I see justice done. However these events count towards points for my local car club and seems like the organising club just decide which category to put you in.

The thing i find strange is the different lengths. I hadn't noticed difference in the sumps but haven't compared them side by side either.

Thanks Pete.

I was just giving the 260 an oil change and noticed dipstck sits a bit loose in the hole. The engine is an L28. I tried a swap with the dipstickout of the L26 (which did fit better) and noticed they were quite different lengths. The original one in the L28 has P6500 printed on it and is almost an inch longer. The one in the L26 has E3002 stamped on it. From what I could find on the net the E3000/1/2 seem correct. Anyone have any idea if the P6500 is correct for an L series motor.