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It was visible in the additional photos on Photobucket and the link was included in the ad.

Body colour both sides. Engine side looks different as it has a rust preventative coating on it but it is blue underneath.

I could easily do a patch job and have it registered, but I think it deserves better than this, and it just means someone has to go to the trouble to remove whatever has been done to hide it and re-do it properly - admittedly at some stage and they might prefer to drive it for a while before embarking on this. I have someone looking at it later this week, so will see how it goes.

No offence taken. So, assuming the rust repairs were done, it is not a $15,000 car - even as original as it is ? Or, is originality not important to most buyers ? If so, this would be unlike most classic cars where originality is preferred over restorations.

All shown on the link below.

Agree with that, but cannot get a RWC without doing the rust repairs, so it is catch 22. I did consider doing a patch job just to get the roadworthy, but decided against this as I believe it should be done with metal and not bog. Maybe that is what I have to do, but to be honest, I think it is the wrong approach. I guess to turn this around, if I do the rust repairs, what is it worth ?

Curious as to why there has not been any comment or phone calls. Is my price too high ? Based on what I have seen sold, I don't think so, but interested to know what others think.

Model: 260z 2 + 2 Location:Sydney Item Condition: Good original Body: Rust? Worst in the dog leg left. Small spots in other areas on body. None in engine bay, battery area, chassis rails or underneath Mechanical: Running well, but unregistered since 1988. Has new front/rear wheel bearings and top mount (no clunks). Brake master cylinder also reconditioned. Mileage: Less than 97,000 km Price and Payment Conditions: Looking for offers above $10,000, but willing to discuss Registration: Unregistered Extra Info: Complete with service records from new, tool kit and original spare tyre. New, correct seat covers and carpets Pictures:More pictures available at http://s1188.photobucket.com/albums/z418/Datsun260z2plus2/ Contact Details: Craig 0414 230 966

I have one for a '74. Don't know if they are the same.

Got a working radio, faceplate (silver edging worn off), but no knobs. Have some new, similar knobs that you may be able to modify. $50 seem reasonable ? I'm in Sydney. Send me a PM.

Warren at All Z Parts has brand new ones on the shelf I believe.

Noticed today that my temp gauge goes to maximum temp when the car starts to get warm. It is not a short as it goes up progressively - it just doesn't stop. I took the ring off th sender, but couldn't get the actual sender out. Is there a trick to it, or just rusted in there ? Of course, it could also be the gauge, as I noticed also that the oil pressure goes to max, and doesn't come back when idling. Any thoughts ?

I am in a car club - several actually, and that is how/why I have historis/club plates. Where did you get the idea I wasn't ? What I did say was that there is no checking done by Qld Transport when you renew it, but the clubs themselves are fairly strict on it.

I also have Vic historic plates, but these vehicles are in the corresponding states most of the time. With the new Vic system, it is no problem as long as the log book is filled in - different story with Qld.

I agree. My link to the forum is set up so it goes directly to unread posts, and I rarely venture outside of reading those.

If the engine was rebuilt, and by someone reputable, they would have used/applied the correct engine rebuild lube, and assuming they did so, there should not be any wear on the cam lobes from some initial starting - even if the oil supply was low. Was the cam replaced during the rebuild ? Even though out of warranty, it may be still worth going back to them. It should be obvious that the engine has not been run, or had just a few start ups. It is possible it has a spun bearing at the front of the crank, which is blocking the oil hole, but unlikely. It would be worth spinning the oil pump with an electric drill to see if you are getting oil pressure and distribution.

I just renewed two QLD registered cars and did it via BPay so no need to prove membership of a club. However, in Victoria you do. The renewal papers must be sent to the club to confirm that you are a financial member.

I have a few a cars on Qld historic rego and some on Vic. The changes to the Vic system is a step in the right direction, but since I drive the cars in Sydney, I have never been stopped. The Qld system is more expensive and more restrictive, but as stated, you can have personalised plates, so it does make it less obvious. I have never been asked by my insurance company if they are registered as normal or historic.

Hi John. Did you get my PM about the diff ?

Some of you may have seen my post where I was looking for a diff for my '74 260z 2 + 2 auto. On the assumption that mine should have been a R180 3.54, I purchased another diff that came out of an '81 280z, with the "K" marking. Turns out the old diff in mine is a R200 with 3.92, and the diff I have bought is an R180 3.54, but with the CV joint style attachment. Question - can I fit this diff by finding a couple of half shafts from a 280 ? Will there be a problem with the length of the half shafts - too short, too long ? Should I just resell the R180 and look for a R200 centre to replace mine ? If I go back to what should have been an R180, I will then need to get the half shafts as well, as I presume the length is different than the ones I have for the R200.

Is this still available or sold ?

Help ! I bought another diff, but it is the wrong one. Mine is the dirty one. It says 392, which I presume is the manual diff, not auto, so maybe someone swapped it at some stage. Anyway, I need a 3.54:1 from a '74 260z or similar to the one below (dirty one). Martin offered me his but it is still in the car for another few weeks, and since the car is now sitting in the drive without a diff, I need to move it soon and don't really want to put the old one back temporarily. Anyone need an auto diff for an '81 280z ???

I've got a few that are on the list but it depends where and when it is being shot. Most of the cars are in Sydney but a couple are in Brisbane.

Anyone have a spare R180 for an auto they would like to sell ? I am in Sydney so would prefer it to be here as freight would be a killer. I might also be in Melbourne over the next few weeks so that might also be an option.

Daley's has a brand called SEM, which is very good. There is also a vinyl cleaner prep spray, but you can use Prepsol. http://www.daleys.com.au/contact