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sexual_sushi

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Everything posted by sexual_sushi

  1. You can get that same bullet style mirror with a longer stalk. Look on ebay for tex calissics. I think the longer stalk are marketed at minis or mg's or something. Not sure how it looks on the car though....
  2. hmmm i made need a kit not sure yet... ill let you know
  3. 2" su's with a day to go (no manifold). Fairly cheap at $102.50 atm http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120477398793&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
  4. hey mate I'm at work and can give you an in depth answer, but I'm sure you'll get some good advice soon. But I would just say, unless you are doing the panel beating/rust work yourself, it will be a lot cheaper (not to mention easier) to buy a fairly tidy car already done.
  5. linky: www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Misc/70R&T.zip (right click, save target as)
  6. hey mate, my emails my username @hotmail.com. If you send it through I can host a link from my website...
  7. I haven't read through all the posts but thought this might help.... http://everydaydriver.com/episodes/370z-350z-300zx/ My parents own a NA z32. In my experience, I would say they are a very comfortable and fun car to own. Solid gearbox and very solid handling. If you can get a reliable one, you'll be laughing. If you get one with a few issues, you'll be selling body parts to pay for it The aircon on my parents car went and they had to pull the whole engine to work on it. Most parts are pretty expensive too. Their airflow meter was playing up. I think it was $800 for a new one or $400 for a reconditioned one. They ended up buying a "new" one for about $600 I think but it turns out it was a reconditioned one that broke only a week or two later. I would say go for a NA as opposed to the twin turbo (less to break/replace and less stress on the engine over the last 20 years, also they are cheaper to buy). Also the "bogans" that would be more likely to flog the car would usually go for the twin turbo versions but that's just a very big generalisation. And try to find one without the t-tops, just looks better IMHO. I suppose the upshot is that they are so cheap now that the money you save on buying it can go towards maintaining it. Parents car (+photoshop) <a href="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Misc/Z32.jpg"><img src="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Misc/Z32_Small.jpg"></a>
  8. If you want to learn everything you can about SU's, order the video from Z Therapy in the states (you can get it direct from them or through black dragon auto). Well worth the money. It will teach you how to pull apart, maintain and tune them. Steve and I have the video, a carb sync tool and the colortune spark plug thing and between all of that we can get the car running pretty nicely.
  9. Forgot to mention there was a tab attached to one of the fuel bowl lid screws on the front carb. It said aud291 which I have found out is the identifying code for the carbs (assuming htis is correct for both carbs, who knows what the previous owner has done) So I found this page http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/SUCarburettors/SUCarbMenu.htm It lists aud291 as coming on: austin 1800 mk II automatic 1968-70 hs6 aud291 wolseley 18/85 mk II automtaic 1969/71 hs6 aud291 So hs6??
  10. I jsut found this http://www.heritagegarage.com/catalog/fuel/9.htm which are parts for twin HS2 mini carbs. This lists the damper as auc8103 but doesn't list the fuel bowl lid part number. So I'm 99% sure my carbs are HS2's.
  11. These seem to be 1 1/2 inch British SU's (i just took the filter off and measured the throat from there, is this correct?). From searching the part numbers I can see on the carbs, I think the carbs are HS2's? The part number on the fuel bowl lid (aud9203) led me to this http://www.auto-part.com/britCatalogs/su/SUPage.asp?index=SU/&model=2&page=43 Which lists it as a "lid - float chamber" for the rear. However this is on the front carb as well. And as you can see in the pictures my fuel bowls are both on the front side of the carb, on the front and rear carb. The damper part number (auc8103) isn't listed for the hs2's though, it's listed for the H2's I have ordered a rebuild kit from black dragon for the later style round top su with the different front and rear carb (I ordered assuming I had the 3 screw round top hitachi/su's, should have checked first :S). These have the needles, seats, gaskets and washers etc. Do you think this will work with the British style carb? I doubt it but you never know. Also, from diagrams, the British float looks similar to the Hitachi float. Does anyone know if this would be interchangeable as well? Cause I was just going to order some from Black Dargon as well. If not I will need to order at least the floats and probably a rebuild kit for them anyway. Does anyone know where I can order British parts from? I'll try Progas in Brisbane http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=5478.new;topicseen#new but does anyone know of any good online or Australian stores for British su parts?
  12. And here is a backup of Simons website... http://web.archive.org/web/20060824083452/http://www.240z.id.au/
  13. That's my plan as you know. Apparently the flat top needles are good for a stock engine because they don't run as rich (su's generally run rich if you believe what you read on the interent ) Edit: Ahh I'm not taking into account the l24 to l26 to l28 thing. I'm running an l26 and so aren't you steve? But like you mentioned, new needles might be good due to wear etc. I'm going to try the flat top needles first. Anyone else know some facts rather than the speculation we are throwing around?
  14. I called Carb and Gas looking for floats and they put me onto Pro Gas aswell. Pro Gas couldn't get the floats but gave me a nissan part number (16061-k1407) which turns out to be wrong. I ended up getting "loose" floats and upon researching looks like they are for 1600's and some 2000's. These are a float like the shape of a hockey puck and don't have the pin/lever mechanism that the standard su's use. I'm planning on making a thread about my carb issues (have a few questions) but I'll probably be selling these floats if anyone needs them. I'll put em in the classifieds and then on ebay.
  15. I can't remember, was your car 2+2 or 2 seater? You can order 2 seater ones from black dragon when we get our stuff. ANother alternative is to get some stainless steel bent up. Cheap and looks good. If you can find some pics of SImon DeGroots sills, thats what he did
  16. Just because he is supplying a hard to find part, it doesn't mean he should get special treatment. After reading these posts I would stay as far away as possible UNTIL i heard a recent positive experience. And from what I can tell anyway, this guy isn't making these carpets, he's buying from another company so he is just the middle man. Also, I thought there were rules about businesses posting things on this forum? If Stuart would like to donate to the site and prove that his business has improved then I'll be here with open arms. I'd be even happier if he could organise molded carpets as quite frankly, piece carpets are horrible. Sorry to be quite rude but I don't find your responses to the issues acceptable. I think Ebay has its flaws but there are definitely ways to get into contact with people. And the quip about Supercheap etc? The difference is they either have those items in stock or you can order them in and they will tell you it will be here tomorrow or in 2 weeks, not leave it to you to contact the supplier to see what went wrong. If you don't have something in stock, you need to tell people upfront that there could possibly be up to a 3 month wait on it.
  17. cheers brad haha scando you saw me, I'm just as white as you tassie boys. The joys of working in a room with now windows
  18. Hey mate what parts did you need? I'm home at my dads shed this weekend so I'm raiding my spare set of flat tops for the needles. I'm in Brisbane though so would be best if you were after small parts...
  19. Haha it's all good mate, I started doing a few last night and got on a roll I didn't actually do anything to you car at all, i was just quickly editing the brightness/contrast and some of the colours. We'll still have to go out and do a proper shoot now that I have my lens back
  20. oh that picture of the time was from a different run, Garvice's time was the 14.7, the other guys time hadn't come up yet
  21. Here's a couple of pics from the weekend just gone (I'll upload a couple from Greg's hosue later) <a href="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/40th_Ani_001.jpg"><img src="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/40th_Ani_001_Small.jpg"></a> <a href="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/40th_Ani_002.jpg"><img src="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/40th_Ani_002_Small.jpg"></a> <a href="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/40th_Ani_003.jpg"><img src="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/40th_Ani_003_Small.jpg"></a> And here are a few of Garvice at the drags... <a href="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_001.jpg"><img src="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_001_Small.jpg"></a> <a href="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_002.jpg"><img src="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_002_Small.jpg"></a> <a href="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_003.jpg"><img src="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_003_Small.jpg"></a> <a href="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_004.jpg"><img src="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_004_Small.jpg"></a> <a href="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_005.jpg"><img src="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_005_Small.jpg"></a> <a href="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_006.jpg"><img src="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_006_Small.jpg"></a> <a href="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_007.jpg"><img src="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_007_Small.jpg"></a> <a href="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_008.jpg"><img src="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_008_Small.jpg"></a> <a href="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_009_Small.jpg"><img src="http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Events/Garvice_009_Small.jpg"></a> You will be able to click on them to download a bigger version but they are currently uploading, should probably take about 30mins
  22. Here's a link to the video. I got a download of it from somewhere, can't remember where now... http://revision3.com/systm/laserscan
  23. Yeah there are a few variables that effect the final quality of the piece, mainly the quality of the video camera you use and the fine-ness of the laser pointer. I wouldn't use it to scan a model and go 'ok it's done', I would use it to scan the model in and then use it as a 3d reference when modelling your car. If you had the space, ie a big enough shed, you can scale it to scan your actual car which would be a lot more accurate!
  24. I've got a video on how to make a DIY 3d scanner using a web cam and a laser pointer, would be perfect for the 240z model. I'll find it when I go home
  25. Yeah I've got a couple of pics, not my best work as I was more focused on socializing (it's like high school all over again) I'll get them uploaded asap, just got a bit on atm. I still have to upload Garvices pics from the drags the other week :S Yeah I'd like to thank PZG302 for the nibblies and extractors and dat2kman for the tour as well. I can't wait for your excel sheet with all the gearbox info, it will be very handy. It was really good to meet Scando as well, all really nice blokes who seem to know what they are doing Oh and dougbye, I saw your cars pics on Dr Dattos flickr page, make sure you get some uploaded! Good to see another tidy zed on the road And thanks Greg for the bbq! It was a good weekend overall but I'm paying for it now, all sunburnt and sick haha. I need to get outside more...
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