Rod F
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Everything posted by Rod F
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Hoi hoi, Merry Christmas. Does anyone know what the stuff is that's used underneath cars to seal between joins (from floor panels to the subframe, for example)? I've seen it on newer cars, it seems to be white and applied with a gun (like silicone). I want to seal up some spots under my Z car where water is likely to enter and rust. I also wanted to use it on the inside of the door skins, to bond them to the reinforcing bar, as the original stuff has let go and the skins flex and rattle. Cheers!
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I've got an input shaft from a Z gearbox if you wanted to borrow that.
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I'll try and make it as I missed the Mt Buller one
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PM sent Sco
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I wouldn't mind the EFI setup if Webbered_six doesn't take the whole thing.
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I got a few, good range of cars, some later model Z's and also some very nice Prince Skylines, even a station wagon!
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Sounds good, i'll try and make it and have a look.
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Haynes manual states following for clearances: (Cold) Inlet: 0.20mm Exhaust: 0.25mm (Hot) Inlet: 0.25mm Exhaust 0.30mm As Sulio mentioned, you just need 2 spanners and feeler gauges. Cheers
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That's great! I've always wanted someone to do this. Interesting what the combustion flame looks like.
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I'm currently using a rust converter that you allow to dry, then wipe over with rags damped in methylated spirits, then water, then wax/grease remover. The converter leaves no traces of rust (no red colour left, just grey steel) and the 3-stage wiping removes all traces of converter (you'd think at least) Maybe that'd work?
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Well, tonight I removed the rest of the floor from the rear mounting bracket. I found using an air chisel to be quite effective in carving through the factory spotwelds. As you can see, one of the brackets has cracked quite badly. I welded in a new section of metal for that. The other side will need checking, I might be able to get away with just welding it up.
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I think some people on this forum have used Stewart Wilkins Motorsport and Black Dragon Automotive in the States.
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I started work on it yesterday, so far have cut out the old floor and tidied everything up. Need to make some patches for extra areas as well. Photo's show the old floor, and what happens when you simply weld a new sheet of metal over an old one - rust. I also peeled back some sound deadener to find some there as well. I've removed the rear seat mounting brackets and need to remove old metal from them as well. They also needed fixing as they have cracked.
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If you have a proper hydraulic jack to support the gearbox it'll make things much easier.
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Thanks anyway Pauly, i've managed to find some newies
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Thanks Pauly, PM sent. Hey Evan yeah that's a good idea, i've been to them before, just past Rooks rd I think near the Ford Dealership. That idea about the seat belt mounting plates sounds interesting. Don't worry about powerdercoating, but having them made from scratch would be great.
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I've never done a conversion myself, but i've taken gearboxes in/out a few times. This weekend might be a bit tricky though, i'm meant to help the olds install a rainwater tank
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Ok, so most of this stuff is pretty rare, but surely someone is wrecking a Z of some sort and has the locking nuts for the rear struts? I need a set so I can install Koni's i've bought. If anyone can help, or knows of alternatives it'd be much appreciated. Cheers
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The sprocket is one-piece, enzo means chocking the chain, then removing the entire sprocket from the camshaft and rotating the sprocket and reinstalling. A new chain shouldn't be slack, are the guides and tensioner worn down? Decking the cylinder head too much can also lower the camshaft and cause issues.
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My 240Z has a generic straight through, came already fitted when I bought the car. Maybe there are different heaters? Do you want a photo Dale?
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I've ordered a floor pan from Rare spares for $138 (I think), got two quotes to chop the old floor out and weld new one in, one was $400, the other $1200. I might give Zworx a call. If they can't do any better, I might look at doing it myself. I did some practice welds yesterday so i'm a bit more confident but still have the reinforcing arm under the floor to worry about, as it's a bit banged up. Cheers
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My later model 240 has a lever adjustment
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Yeah i've got a MIG, but no gas. It does work (sort of). I've only done a bit of welding before (on external panels) but for this job I don't want to stuff it up - it's my ass on the line (literally)
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Greetings, I'm after the following if anyone has them: - drivers side window glass - drivers side door latch mechanism - front discs (mine are on minimum thickness) - horn contact swiper on steering column - locking nuts that hold the rear shockers in the strut tubes (x2) - mounting brackets for 260Z retractable seat belts Thanks!
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I finally attempted to fix the drivers side floor last weekend. Unfortunately when I tried to weld in a new patch the rest of the floor blew away, it's just too thin. So, i've decided to replace the whole floor with a new one. I'm going to get some quotes this weekend from restoration shops to get an idea. I'm guessing someone else has already done this, what sort of price did they pay, and what was done? I'd probably buy one of those Rarespare ones and then paint and sound deaden it myself. Thanks,
