thehelix112

There is fuel in the tank isn't there? If it was running happily a month ago I would suggest filling it up as much as you can, then spraying fuel into the SU's to get it to fire/crank over a few times. I'm not sure how long you cranked it for, but it could just be that the fuel in the lines has evaporated/drained back to the tank. Dave

Sid, I am lazy as hell. That manifold was only ever a temporary measure so I just did what seemed easiest. The manifold makes less difference IMHO on a turbocharged engine as the air is being forced into the manifold, thus the pressure differentials that occur when the valves open are smaller, and consequentially, the deviations and waves equalise faster. I think anyway, haven't really spent enough time thinking about it. Dave

Nice work Matt. Keep it up. Dave

Its ok, I am debadging the car and smoothing everything at some point anyway. Dave

Thats good advice. I lost one of mine somewhere around 115mph down the 1/4 at Heathcote. Dave

You need to know the offset of either the rims, or a KE70 to work that out. The stud pattern is the same though. Dave

Lead on Mc Duff! Dave

My car won't be at datnats mate. I was going to try and do a rush rebuild to get it there, but I have decided the next time it sees the track it will be prepared properly. No more half-assed preparation stuff. And the idea of 25psi, PI, my driving, and no cage doesn't thrill me. I like being alive. Dave

Nice one Lurchy baby. Come do mine when you're done. DId you hand sand down to metal? Or blast or what? Dave

I really don't like 240hoke's Z myself. ZG flares look haphazard and are overdone. Not to mention the grill, the black bonnet, the red centres in the wheels, the rubbish brakes, the unducted brake ducts in the front bar, the front splitter that looks like it couldn't support a peanut. Not meant to flame anyone, just my personal preference. Dave

I have two requests. 1. L6 Kamearai timing kit. http://www.kameariengineworks.co.jp/page6.htm 52,500Y 2. Grit-tune L6 girdle. http://www.grit-tune.com/part.html (part way down on the right: http://www.grit-tune.com/img/part_004.jpg) 60,000Y Comes out to around AUD1200 by my calculations. Let me know if this is possible and I will see if I can sort out getting you the money (I am in California ATM) Dave

I got an XF 65mm T/B and welded up an adaptor that flares (from the local exhaust shop) from the 65mm down to the L28E intake manifold size. Seems to work ok. Obviously required a cable conversion as you can see (longest throttle cable known to man!), and as a further word of warning, if you are running EFI, make sure you DON'T get the t/b with the large rectangular switch-type TPS, next to useless. Dave

http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7489 DIY manual knock sensors, for the set-and-forget. Thats what I have done. The headphones are amazing, you can hear the valves opening and closing and ANY detonation straight away. Electronic knock sensors are of relatively limited value I believe, though at the same time I am sure they are evolving and improving all the time. By the time the sensor is sure its detonation you could have a broken engine, esp on a highly-stressed race engine. I'd say tune it safe, use good fuel, and forget about it. Dave

On a side note. They look suspiciously like Koni adj camber plates and upper strut tops. Was it hard to get a full range of movement on those slotted holes? Dave

I'm about 50% sure my car will be ready by then. Being overseas blows. But I will be back for it, atleast as a spectator if nothing else. Dave

What he said. Dave

Yes I've done it. Axle stands will be apples, and I used an el-cheapo jack to lower the box down. Don't forget to get a piece of wood appropriately sized to jam under the rear of the engine or it'll tilt over backwards (the mounts are way forward of CoG). Luckily my turbo is only 1" from the firewall so it didn't tilt far. Good luck, Dave

The yanks have the right way to go, both. Stroker and turbo. Dave

Didn't forget the two small bolts that go into the top of the timing cover did you? Dave

One day. Dave

Simon, Haven't started yet as I am doing a bit of travelling about the place. With gf's family in California ATM. Plans are not over the top: cam (~230 deg @ 0.05) valve springs to match, balance, o-ring block, forged pistons, arp rod bolts and main & head studs, bore/hone appropriate. Should be enough to let me run 25psi or so. Hope to be making somewhere over 300atw with that setup. Dave

Simon, Great to hear. I'm hoping to be able to really lean on my GT35R after a rebuild. Should make for some interesting power figures. Dave

What I believe Lambs is referring to is the fact that on most of these boxes the bell housing is one piece that extends down, covering the gearset, to the rear extension housing. Swapping the gearsets over using whatever bell housing you like is relatively easy I believe (I swapped my S14 71C gearset into a 280z bell housing). So it would be relatively easy for someone to put a 280zx gearset into a 240z/260z bell and say ``look the plug is on the right, its a `good' gearbox''. If it were me I'd be selecting 1st and counting the number of rotations. 2.9:1 is the `good' gearbox ratios I believe. Not too sure if those ratios had the `good' synchros or not and I CBF looking it up atm. Dave

300hp? Planned redline? Got how many heads for porting development? Will definitely be a weapon if you can get it done. Dave

I would, but Joe knows what I won't, stupid oil pumps. Dave