thehelix112

The redline shockproof gear oil is supposed to be the bees knees but its not a silver bullet. If your tranny is knackered then its knackered. The redline stuff wasn't enough to save my FS5C71A from destruction unfortunately. That being said I'll still be using it. No idea on tranny rebuild prices sorry. I suggest you ring around. Good luck. Dave

Lurch, Just wanted to post a massage here, but alas, Sven didn't quite fit. I hope I am there, but I doubt it as my box is blown and I'm going to the states in the intervening period. Enjoy, Dave

I still prefer the two-tone black and white one. That zed looks mean as. What pic is it based from? I'm tihking of having a play with some stencil arts shortly, going to use that zed as my first one. Dave

Too late. I put a 3" unmuffled (track only of course) system on and went to do some tuning yesterday. Went to boost it in 3rd, and I now have a broken box. How sad. I'm going to look at an RB30 5-speed adapted to L28 bell housing as a temporary measure. Dave

Thanks Gav. Does anyone happen to know what times/MPH sinisha was running? I saw an 11.9 pass but missed the MPH. That thing motors! Dave

Anyone here get along to the NDSOC drags on the weekend? Dave

Nah lets do it sooner rather than later. The gearbox front bearing is starting to make some noise and it'll be a while until the RB25 box goes in. Care to make a date and I'll get my 20psi tune done. Dave

Good point. My point was that it shouldn't be overly surprising if my car spits something. Dave

Am I the Dave you are referring to Sulio? If so then, yes, the goal for my car is a pure track car. Its obviously nowhere near it yet, but is getting there slowly. This will involve a full tower-tower cage soon enough, so yes a rear strut brace would only be a temporary measure. Ideally I would love to have my car finished for the next nationals, but I'm a slack bugger and I can't see that happening. Dave

My car looks like a sack of poo, and is running standard gearbox and diff, and now I'm making excuses - but of course I'm up for it. Dave

Because not all cars are the same. Manufacturing tolerances have come a long way in 30 years. Dave

Yeah thats where the battery was. Now in boot (obviously). I never really asked Rollo why he put the turbo there, I just liked it because it gets it out from directly under my intake manifold - and NICE and close to the passengers brake line. :S 280zx CVs are unlikely to be up to the job for anything more than a little while. They are the tripod style CV vs the Z31 6-ball type (or so I've been lead to believe). Methinks customs for me. Someone convince Jack to gimme his RB25DET gearbox->L28 bell housing. Dave

Haha.. so I'm guessing you were told that? Dave

Natez, I've been chasing R200 280ZX axles for a while (not overly hard mind you) but am shortly going to start breaking things I fear (only running 10psi at the moment). I'll definitely have a chat to Jack about it. Thanks for that. I've never seen the turbo put in that position either. The exhaust manifold is awesome (Ian Rowlerson of Rowlerson Tig Welding - Warragul) It was built by him for his race car then he decided to go a supercharged 1UZ. Mad bugger. Dave

Oh and I completely agree that making an RB25 quick will be much easier than making a turbo L quick. Though really, the only major difference is in manifolds yes? L28ET manifolds (while not easy to come by - hence my using a L28E one ) aren't overly restrictive (244rwkw from simon's and god knows how much from Jack's). And for the cost of a HKS/jap-brand manifold you could get a locally built custom one I'm sure. Oh look at me.. I'm talking about my personal preference as if it was the only/best way to do things.. :oops:

Natez, Forgive me for doing this but I CBF writing it all again so I'll just copy and paste it in. Yeah.. my engine looks stock from the outside too... :? Jack put a RB25DET box onto the back of his zed? Methinks I need to have a chat with him, does anyone have contact details? Guys, I have a navy blue 240Z that I purchased from a friend of a friend. Originally brought with blown head-gasket I drove it with the stock L24 and flat-top SUs ( ) until the SUs decided to develop a flatspot from between 1% and 80% throttle. Holding the throttle anywhere inbetween those two resulted in massive overfueling, a black plume of smoke three lanes wide on the freeway, half a rear muffler and a subsequent police detective motivated pull-over. After several trips to Ballarat going 100->110, clutch, roll, repeat, I sourced a supercharged L28 replacement. After some clutch dramas during the install I drove the car like this for 6 months or so while I gathered together parts for a turbo conversion. Then 6 months ago (ok so it might be more than 6 months), after breaking the gear selector linkage on the 280z 5-speed in there I took the car off the road to do the conversion. Details: Car: Model: 240Z Year: 1973 Colour: BMW Navy Blue (crows feeted to hell) Front bar: Not standard (?) Engine: L28: Block F54, Head P90 Compression: 7.4:1 Cam: Crow #58643 Intake: 212 deg 0.075" dur, 0.480" lift, Exhaust: 210 deg 0.075" dur, 0.495" lift Pistons: Standard Rods: Standard Crank: Standard Displacement: 2753cc (Standard). Oil cooling: Earls thermostat to 235x147x50mm Serck cooler. Balancer: Custom Chris Wood built using BMW Inline 6 balancer. Driveline: *cough* Gearbox: FS5C71A *cough* Clutch: 5-puck ceramic with 1100kg pressure plate Diff: Standard R180 *cough* Driveshafts: Standard *cough* Tailshaft: Custom using oversided hardy spicer joints. Fuel System: Tank: Standard Lift pump: Carter 110gph Surge: CM510 alloy around 1-2 litres EFI pump: Bosch 044 Fuel feed line: dash-8 (1/2" ID) line Fuel rail: custom Injectors: 460cc N/A S5 RX7 Regulator: Bosch adjustable rising rate Control/Ignition: Type: EFI - fully sequential injection Computer: Autronic SMC v 1.91 Distributor: Custom hall-effect Leads: Sorcher 8mm induction Coil: Bosch 716HEC transformer type Ignition Module: Bosch Induction: Manifold: Standard 280zx EFI Throttle body: Ford XF 65mm Piping: 2.5" stainless Intercooler: ARE 520x300x90 bar and plate Turbocharger: 620hp Garrett GT35R (0.82 turbine housing) Exhaust: Manifold: Custom Ian Rowlerson: stainless, tigged, tuned length, split pulse collector, external wastegate flange External wastegate: Sub-zero 55mm Exhaust: 3" mandrel bent mild dumper to 2.5" press bent street system and 3" side exit race system. 2.5" screamer off wastegate Suspension and Wheels: Springs: Lowered Kings progressive all round Shocks: Gabriel POS, don't ask my why. Sway bars: Whiteline adjustables all round Wheels: 14x6 dealer option `jelly beans'. Tyres: 195/75R14 Pirelli P400s Fairly obviously the driveline will need some serious work in the very near future. I have a 4.4:1 R200 sitting there waiting to go in and plan on a RB25DET gearbox.

Natez, How recently have you been there? It was just finished being resurfaced not too long ago, or have they decided to do more to it? Ozdat people will be coming along on that cruise (curteousy of Lurch) also so I'll be going anyway. I'm up for a cruise at any point these days, (got my brakes sorted-ish). Dave

Awesome post Natez. No flamage coming from my direction. It IS down to personal opinion/preference indeed. There are any number of ways to get decent power for a zed and we each favour one and I'm sure we can each carry-on about why our personal preference is the best til the cows come home. I went the L28ET route. I've also spent over 10K in doing so, but then, I wanted it done properly, and I wanted something I could learn on, so it suited me nicely. Plus there is the rarity factor, you don't see too many turbo-L powered zeds, or any car for that matter. Your point about L28ETs requiring new manifolds, computers, injectors etc is true, assuming you want more than the standard bits can supply. It all depends how far you want to go I guess. If you are chasing a lot of grunt you will want that in any case. Did I hear tell that Costa has a running L31? I'd be keen to have a look.. bah who am I kidding.. I want a ride. Will trade you for a ride in mine once its tuned? Dave

Changing the position of the strut-top is a much neater solution than adjusting it at the bottom. Changing it at the top doesn't affect anything else, where as at the bottom affects just about everything. So noone has done this? Or even seen it done? Dave

Thanks mate. Didn't even think to look under 260Z. :oops: Dave

Ok so I am a lazy bugger who would rather use a block of wood and a hammer than have to jack the car up and run around with string.. Dave