thehelix112

Sorry, a S15 is supposed to be fast or? Dave

I say pick a power goal, not a $ figure, and work from there. Remember everything has to work together, and if you skimp on something you may as well not have done any of it. Building a 250hp L28 is surely a well-known thing. I would be considering: balance rotating mass bigger balancer (chris wood of speed technology for example) arp rod bolts deck head deck block as big a cam as you're comfortable with for intended use appropriate induction (efi/carby, whatever, both will work) head porting: I think you can save some money here by a bit of DIY action, depending on how many L6 heads you can get your hands on, and how patient you are. There are plenty of books that detail porting techniques, and I'm sure you could rig up a DIY flow bench if you so chose. Just a question of time I guess. If you're keen you could get a datrats head port job ($3K) and enough for 350hp @ 25 in.H2O. Dave

Gav, Nothing on there is set in stone. I never expected anyone to use it to be honest. I did have a different measurement for the L20A rods, but was informed by a L20AET owner that I was incorrect. Thats all I know sorry. I just surfed around a lot to gather as much information on all the measurements that are in there. Was a few years ago so I'm sorry, I can't remember where I got everything from. As much as possible was from official catalogues though. Yes its all written in Javascript. I'm afraid I haven't bothered to look up the exact specs of the MN47 to see if they are any different to the N47 heads, but my gut tells me they are. If you do come across the specs on hybridz or wherever, let me know and I'll add it to the engine design utility. Dave

http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Little web utility I wrote a while back. You could hang around hybridz.org or another US z forum and chase up a MN47 head. From what I can gather they are a small cc version of a P90 head (kidney shape chambers). Tis what I'd be using if i ever built a screamer N/A engine. Dave

3.54/3.9 * 2380 ~= 2160rpm. I find that somewhat hard to believe. I have a 3.54 and a 0.76 5th and with 195/50R15s I am doing ~2700rpm at 100kph. Dave

The L head is very good for what it is. But, yes it is still a non x-flow SOHC 2vpc head. A stock short blocked'd 2JZ 240Z just went 10.6 @ 136(!!!!)MPH in the states. With a 1.9 60'. That is madness. Dave

My turbo conversion hasn't been cheap. Best part of 10K into it, and I still have a stock engine. Dave

Have you driven a Ford T56? They are supposedly the bees knees. I drove one and it shifted just fine. Redline in 3rd and slammed it into 1st just to test the synchros, not an issue. The supra uses a getrag does it not? Much of a muchness with the R34 GTR box, I think one of those would set you back just as much as a T56. Dave

Studley park is a no-go for me. Sorry, my car is too loud, and I doubt I'll have the muffler on it by then. I say the tried-and-true Kinglake/toolangi region. Gives me time to stop and put my silencer plate back in before a town. Dave

I'm up for a cruise then. If the silly car is going. Dave

Looks damn good Sulio. Congrats! Dave

My choke cable was connected to.. err.. the choke? Dave

I feel that I'll be a Philip Island driving mine. Have fun. Dave

Good point, everything has to be matched to make the most of things. Dave

Gav, Duration is the period in engine degrees that the valves are open for yes. Advertised duration is from and to the cam lobe (the valve touching the seat), while 0.05 duration is the same thing but for 0.050 of an inch of lift (I'm not sure whether this is measured at the cam or valve). The reason need both is it gives you an indication of the ramp angle. A very high advertised duration relative to the 0.05 duration means a slow ramp angle. 0.05 is also more indicative of the performance you will get as the flow before there is 0.05 of a gap will be next to nothing. N/A 300hp is leaning on the L pretty hard. I think you'll be pushing it and loosing a LOT of drivability if you get there. Dave

Did you mean 0.050" duration figure? Maybe they are advertising it as a 76 works cam in that is has the same advertised and lift but not 0.05? Who knows. Dave

Thanks for the heads up guys. I'm looking to do what Mr camouflage posted but welded on instead of bolted on. Will let you know how I go. Dave

I'm with lambs. See if you can pick my car from this picture: http://www.ndsoc.com.au/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=43&pos=10 Dave

Gav, Do NOT buy that cam. 256 0.05 dur for a street car are you friggin kidding me? When that guy says working range is from 4500 he really means the inverse is true: it does NOT work below that. FWIW according to tighe cams the 76 works cam is only 230 0.05 dur ( http://tighecams.com.au/profiles3/nissanlseries.htm ) And I'm not too sure how we got onto cam shafts from compression ratio. The only link I am (mildly) aware of is that the effective compression ratio is lower than static when the cam is not ``working''. For me the answer to your question depends almost 100% on you choice of fuel delivery. If you are going a proper after market engine management system, I'd say suck it and see. If you want webbers/mikunis/SUs/whatevers forget it. It'll be a total dog. Dave

Ash, Ah well.. they're having a few this year. Dave

Higher pressure will NOT atomise the fuel better. You can get these: http://www.lonewolfperformance.com/pictures/nissan.html for what looks like USD350. Dunno if thats worth it for you. You'd probably be far better off to have a chat to someone about Individual Throttle Bodies.. speed-technology could help you out here: http://www.speed-technology.com/efi_main_page.html but I believe they don't come cheap. Dave