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thehelix112

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Everything posted by thehelix112

  1. http://www.datrats.com.au/lz_twin_cams.htm Dave
  2. thehelix112

    oils

    I did say that it was specifically for track engines that were going to be given a hard time. Also as I said, I run Redline 40 in my turbo engine. I don't know how a turbo would react to cold pressure with 70W oil, but I think not well. Errol Smith == datrats. Dave
  3. thehelix112

    oils

    Depends on its application. Errol Smith recommends a 40W70 (I think) oil for track engines that are going to be given a hard time, under the right circumstances. That is, no trying to start it on a 0degC day at 5am with a stiff breeze etc etc. I run Redline Race 40 in mine. Dave
  4. Looks much better red IMHO. Dave
  5. Add, My advice would be to pick a power target, pick a budget, then try to make one fit the other. FWIW I have spent over 10K on the turbo setup for my L28, and I haven't even pulled it apart yet. That being said, I'm not in any hurry (read, don't care about budget), and was not willing to change engines. Not for any good engineering reason, I just like the L. Dave
  6. Ask yourself why you want a L28ET in the first place. If its to go fast, then the only thing you really need is a P90 head, assuming you will be replacing/rebuilding a lot of the internals of the engine you build anyway. If its to go fast cheaply, look elsewhere. Dave
  7. Christ thats fast Ash. Dave
  8. Calder: 1:11.6, 240Z, L28ET, GT35R, 10psi (no boost control), un-bled brakes, Kumho V70A, dry track, Video.
  9. I just wanted to echo PZG302's comments about tyre-dependent pressure specs. What pressures work best will vary between tyres, so just have a play around. Also please clarify if you are talking hot or cold pressures? Dave
  10. Why do I not see an option for "Laguna Beach, California"? Dave
  11. Sulio, Not really no. I have submitted my dissertation and it is off being examined in the UK, USA and AUS. In other words I'm hanging out like a shag on a rock waiting to hear back (and have been since June). Dave
  12. I'm currently stateside trying to save some money. I spend every spare second that I am not working or looking after the wife thinking about my car back home, and how I can get it over here. My main problem at the moment is now that I am working fulltime I have to be semi-responsible. It was much easier to justify spending 90% of my PhD scholarship every fortnight. Dave
  13. I'm 6'4 (193cm indeed) and I fit in mine just fine. I actually move my seat forwards a touch to get more leverage on the steering wheel at time.s Dave
  14. I would just like to preface this post with my view that dynos are particularly useless for comparing hp values. On the sheet you tried to link to which can be found towards the bottom of this page http://zhp.satokikaku.com/makingofs30/z21/index.htm there is indeed a dyno sheet there that indicates 328ps. I really wish I could read Japanese (or that babel was working), because I can't see anywhere indicating that is rear wheel hp. If it is crank hp, multiplying it by a standardish conversion factor (85%) gives us around 275hp. Which is inline with another page, where it is clearly rwhp, the dyno indicates a more realistic maximum ps of 275.5 at around 6700 http://zhp.satokikaku.com/makingofs30/z26/index.htm That is much more believable. The head on that car is basically stock and doesn't look anywhere near 400hp capable to my (inexperienced) eyes. FWIW one theoretical maximum I have calculated from the high flow figure for a L intake valve I have heard of puts the maximum hp at 390, with a 3.0L engine making this power at close to 11000rpm. I know such calculators aren't worth their salt, but there is too much of a discrepancy between that and what you are telling me, so I get suspicious. Dave
  15. NZeder, That dyno sheet doesn't work for me. What RPM is max power at? Or can you fix the link? According to my calculations 328rwps is around 380fwhp. Still mighty impressive. Dave
  16. Gotta ask for more details and/or proof of that. Sounds like a big load of bullshit to me. Dave
  17. Get em as close as you please. I would not go over 205 on a 7" rim though, the tyres get squirmy and then you may run into rubbing issues. Plus you end up with more grip with a 205. Dave
  18. Congrats dude. Sounds like fun. Would you be open to organising a couple of parts for me and shipping? They're kinda expensive, add up to a couple of K I think. Dave
  19. Joe, Lambs is talking about the head from the P-series engine, as distinct from the P-designated head from the L-series engine. Pauly, Don't mean to be rude, but please add some grammar/punctuation. Your posts are a royal PITA to read. Dave
  20. SFA. Dave
  21. I seem to remember there being something in the Vic rules about 15% increase in displacement. L24 = 2393cc L28 = 2753cc L24 * 1.15 = 2752cc. Wouldn't that shit ya? Dave
  22. I have done this a few times, never had to drop the diff mount though, just the sway bar. IIRC correctly you need a double ended ring spanner, one with the S shape that lets you hold the nut squarely, from around the front diff mount. First time is always a prick, you get better at it, fear not. Most frustrating thing I remember about getting it back in with the diff mount on was trying to get the nuts started. Holding the washer + nut in that small space between two fingers then having to spin them, didn't wanna happen. Persistence is the key. Good luck, Dave
  23. Evan, To be honest I was too scared to try and flare/lip myself so I had the local panel beater do it, thinking he'd have some professional whizz bang way. When I went to pick it up it had the dull paint in the pics around all 4 arches because ``he just hit it with a block of wood from the inside''. Nice. Oh well, its smooth, and works. Dave
  24. I have B45 16" simmons x8 on the back wearing 225 Kumho semi's. +16 offset I believe. They did scrub with the car fully laden with crap to take to the track, but were fine when racing. I have since lipped the rear guards just in case. I have also put the 8s on the front (as in the following pics) where they clear the lower spring perch by a bees dick. Don't know how they would go with front guard clearance. Will depend a large part on whether you have increased front negative camber. I had to flare the guards about an inch as well as lip them with ~-3.5 camber. Here are some pics: Hope that helps, Dave
  25. Yep. Dave
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