zedevan

thanks for the info. i havn't looked at it at all yet as i was on my way to work, and already ended up being late as had to catch a bus which takes longer lol. i'll have a good look around tonight probably. the clutch still disengages completely as far as i can tell (as otherwise it would cruch when changing gears yeah?) hmmm i dont read that anywhere? the pressure plate comes in a clutch kit yeah? thats the (trade?) price for the kit, remaching the flywheel sounds like one of those while your at it type jobs, or am i going to notice a difference if i do this? good to see to you back gav, i had money and some shocks to give back to you the other night, so next time

well a new clutch is only $130 so looks like thats the way to go for now, just they say there are two different types used on zed's and there's no way to tell until you get it out, is this true? just would be nice if i knew what sort it was so i can get it now and then in over the weekend, instead of just taking it out on the weekend and getting the clutch on monday thanks for any help in advance!

not so much a question as a statement, changing gears this morning on my way to work it failed to engage (never had a problem or even a sign of slipping) as soon as i realised i stopped accelerating and then it clunked back in so started again, only to notice it slip when it got more than 3500rpm through it. the clutch is now about twice as easy to push down on as before, and doesn't do so smoothly, and makes the rear end of the car shudder quite badly when engaging. i pulled over, checked fluid, can't see anything obviously wrong, so i caught the bus so i dont do more damange for now, although i assume its screwed and even if only part of it needs replacing i assume its the main part so may as well do all of it? any ideas or tips on whats wrong/how to change it/any manuals i should purchase? the only thing thats annoying me is that i was hoping this clutch would last me till i had a different engine and gearbox...which could be coming up quite soon, and if i'd blown the engine it would be happening now, so i'm tossing up whether to do it now, but a clutch isn't that expensive so kindof a stupid reason ? as if i did start playing with the engine etc, realistically it woudlnt b back on the road till the end of the year, i have another car to drive but i'd prefer to keep driving the zed as it is, knowing that eventually the clutch just wont engage at all, but there's nothing i can brake that doesn't already need replacing? yeah?

i asked my insurance company how much more my insurance would be if i had a "turbo kit" and they said $100 more on my excess, and that was all! i was also born in 85, however before i do anything i plan on calling them up to confirm this lol

i've been wondering what the difference between a neo and non-neo engine is too...so if you find out, or find a good site with info please pass it on

yeah that looks much nicer, only a few zeds can pull off having that rear light panel the same colour as the car. i've been thinking about painting the standard chrome light surrounds black like what your car has had done to it. isn't there another piece that sits between the two rear lights that should also be painted? the dark rear panel suits your recently repainted rims too, or did you get them powdercoated?

just go get whatever bits your going to destroy out of a car at a wrecker, there's heaps of 280zx's at one in clayton

i belive they are around the same price as an rb25det to obtain, although i'd like to hear otherwise. i guess its one of those things where we wish we lived in america, but they wish they lived here for rb's and specifically rb30s RPMz's one is out of a jap import from memory, so i guess you could ask any engine importer, although i asssume what i said about is true due to availibililty

i dont know how much the overlays are to buy seperately and if they are a pain to set up, my assumption is it would b, and the price of them would out do any saving of buying a screen without it. the overlay still works when the screen is on, so since i know the position of the buttons i can still go to the next song with the screen off lol while you could get buy on a low res screen it will look crap...when i got this laptop out to use it looked pretty crap compared to anything thats currently around as its only running 800X600 on a 12.1" screen, but it made me decide that i didn't really need to pay the extra 100-200 for a 10" screen that ran 1024x768 as then all the buttons and stuff get to small unless u reskin it urself...which as you could tell i probably couldn't b bothered doing on mp3car there's stuff on how to modify that switch ur talking about amongst other ways of getting around it. i have a spare laptop power supply, as i bought one then my dad happened to have one for some reason and it put less noise onto the screen (i need to put the screen in through a coil or something to stop the noise completely) the memory i have sitting around is ddr2, so yeah shoulda remembered old laptop means different sort sorry lol you may as well try running everything on the laptop to see if it will do, what gps software you have? i've been meaning to get some but it aint that often that i go somewhere where its really needed. i was going to extend the cdrom drive up to the dash but for the hassle and the fact its only cd, not dvd as well, and you can get a dvd usb one for $100ish it probably aint worth it. the other thing thats a good idea is a higher quality audio out of the laptop, i had a decent external sound card but i managed to blow it up (had to turn it off by unplugging it as was to lazy to put in a switch for it, and one of those stupid things where turning it off still leaves it on draining the battery, and i kept shorting it as i was plugging it back in and yeah...opps) i'd be tempted to just get an ipod, unless you were caught up on the gps thing or wanted it to play around with the whole thing, as they are still heaps faster to find a song on than my carpc software, althoguh it might help if i sorted through my music collection properally. i belive once on mp3car i saw an external mouse that was a usb ipod wheel, kinda cool.

all i currently use is the touch screen, got lazy half way though playing with the joystick as windows kept forgetting what button was ment to do what. there are lots of little wheel type things, generally used for video editing, that ppl hook up and use them, but i guess ti comes down to if u get it working with the software well enough etc. I'm currently running centrafuse which is made specifically for carpc's and has heaps of functions built in, and doesn't require double clicking all hte time, which is one thing thats dam hard to do on a touch screen, although its a beta so the guys eventually going to charge for it, although it is probably worth it, as i went from hating the stupid thing to loving it again. there are a few different free programs you can use but they all take awhile to set up, so never got around to it lol the laptop i run is only a 533, and has as much ram in it as possible, which is only 196. somewhere on my desk i have a 128 or 256 if u want it for $30 or so, although i'd have to find it...was out of gf's decent laptop as it was upgraded to 1gb...i am planning on buying a laptop at some time most likely so will try to get one with a dock connecter thing so i can just plug it in when i'm in the car with the one plug. mp3's dont require the greatest computer, and i just let mine hybernate all the time so doesn't take to long to turn on, speically when u dont load anything on it but whats needed either way you're best off to get a proper power supply, laptop ones are around the $100 mark, and desktop type ones are $150 or so for the good ones, with autoboot on power up, and auto shutdown etc with the ignition. if i had a slot load dvd/cd drive i'm sure i'd like the system even more, as sometimes its handy to have it, and relying on windows networking to upload new songs to it sucks as it always seems to not be able to find the other computer in the great windows way, and i assume ur meaning wireless (802.11) not bluetooth http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Lilliput-7-Touch-Screen-XGA-TFT-Car-Monitor-629GL_W0QQitemZ110085613743QQihZ001QQcategoryZ14946QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem get something like that for the screen, alot of the non touchscreen ones only run tv type resolution on them so computer looks crap on them. however lilliputs are regarded as cheap screens (although not the cheapest still), mine is a lilliput and the main wire connection to the screen internally is loose so i have to bash it sometimes to stop it going all green, its an easy to fix problem but once again havn't been bothered, as it works so i'm happy. the best are xenarcs but they are close to $800, then to fix the problem of not being able to see them in daylight (like most phones etc) ppl put a special coating on them, which i think is similar to whats on new laptops, but it cost a few hundred to get down, so normally only bmw guys do it etc dvd slot drives are a bit over $100, so for what you get all up compared to a 3g headunit car pc's are heaps better, but compared to a $230 jvc mp3 headunit u kinda needa wonder if its worth all the stuffing around etc. i really need to finish my system off, hopefully can this year, but i'm keen to do the rear lights long post, but hope i answered most of ur questions and have given a better impression of what i think of having it now that i have for awhile. driving another car the last week has made me miss having the radio, so i'd like to set that up too. a few ppl run headunits and computers, so thats one option, or can get tuner cards, but my laptops to crap to run the one i got look round on mp3car, i havn't for ages, but there was one guy who had a 15.4" screen (off a laptop) rotated so it was portrait and had upgraded the backlight in it to using heaps of water cooled leds and it was really quite psycho. i generally turn off my screen at night as its to bright and just let it play though a playlist. i'm interested if cops would defect me for it as they have a similar thing i their cars lol, all the places i took my car to get a rwc didn't say anything about it...

i'd say find a thread on it at www.skylinesaustralia.com, as i'm sure there would b info there. i have a mate that did it in a vl and he said he should of just gone with an rb26 for what ended up being similar money, not sure if he had much work done on bits, mayb it was the time spent doing it, as he went rb25 for a bit then put the rb30 block on it do rb26's have individual throttle bodies and other things which would end up costing heaps more than the intial cost of one add to an rb25 head? with either rb engine the way i see it is get it in there and running, as both would have more than enough power as an upgrade over a stock L series, then in a few yrs time when its not enough get an rb30 block, but if u know you want psycho power then may as well do it in the first place

good to hear your car will finally be registered! i just really wanna sit in your car and see how hard a worked l28 can go, even if it is in a slightly heavier car. i vote for some drive out north east way, or anywhere with hills and a higher speed limit, and preferably not on the weekend of the 17th or 24th of feb as i'll be away.

it was really inspiring to see such a highly modified zed and have it presented to us

is anyone able to bring along 8 standard 260z wheel nuts? just to borrow for a max of 2 weeks...

there should b a rubber seal underneath the shift boot, if you dont have one it helps reduce the smell, and the noise alot, you can get them off ebay america the heat coming through the trans tunnel i havn't really noticed, however it is hot to touch, i guess you could put on any type of heat sheild but if ur trying to make ur car light i assume u have to choose! the smell is generally thought to be coming through the rear lights and hatch seals, there's a long thread on it at hyridz. i've been considering buying http://www.airtab.com/ and putting them at the top of the hatch, either just before it or on the top of the windows so they are easy to pull off, and hope that it disrupts the air up there and makes it flow off the back of the car better, although might just hope they are doing that as part of their wind tunnel testing and see the results first, however it's not like they are that expensive. ppl on hybridz have been suggesting it as in this video you can see the "air" seperating from the body starting up there, so if this delays it then it should dely the turbulance. the other option is the rear spoiler which i'm planning to get at some stage, and in which case i guess the airtabs would put more air over the spoiler like what they are used for on the evo's

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OEzNMg4p2w went around at work today, and thought youtube was sure to have it and ofcourse it did definately is sucking lol

thanks for the link, i was reading through links regarding the obtaining of a cams licence, and i think thats y i'm getting confused...

i went and talked to a guy i was recommended to go to at auto excess in blackburn/nunawading today regarding doing the welding of the guards. my mate says this guy is trustworthy and does great work so i'm pretty sure its the path i'm going to take, he said it would b priced on the time spent, and he's use his new tig welder on it inbetween other jobs or after hours over a week. so he said he'd be able to do all of it, except he doesn't have the tool needed to install the nut inserts (anyone know what its called, he said it was a captive nut plier? and if you can hire it from somewhere?) the other thing he suggested was to weld in some metal behind the front guards to give them some rigidity instead of putting the sideways force on the flare, so there's no chance of the flare snapping etc. i'm thinking this is overkill as the flare can bend alot, and while cutting the guards would take out all the strength it has side on, its not really important? however with the deformed zone gone from the front flares i could see it getting pretty flexible and hence his point. any thoughts? i'm thinking i should get him to weld some metal in up the front to replace my quality plastic inner fender to protect my headlight wiring at the same time lol

yeah, the bolty bridge however u spell it, so it must of been on one of the docklands docks, like where we had that photoshoot