zedevan

awesome weekend, thanks for all the lifts everyone!

I've adjust the clearances and double checked them about 4 times now, as there is still a tapping noise! When i start the car it idels fine, and there is no tapping noise, once its revved above 2000rpm the tapping starts and continues at idel for about a minute then its gone. I thought mayb this was an oil problem so i've cleaned the oil distributer thing and its working fine. I'm thinking mayb one of the valves isn't sealing properally? although from what i've read if this is the case it should put out a fair bit of black smoke when started which doesn't appear to be the case. Any suggestions? as i'd really like to take it on the cruise tomorrow, and am tempted to just take it as it is...bad idea?

awesome, thanks lurch, off to work on the car now so hopefully it starts to run beautifully...

I'm definately up for the drive and hopefully crash for the night, all interested mates are in exams so want to "concintrate" so anyone got space? also my tappet adjustment so far hasnt' gone to well, i'll hopefully get it all sorted friday as i have most of the day off, but if i dont i'll either rock up in another car and hope someone has a spare seat and money for petrol? hopefully thats not the case though lol

XRQTR - Stef Charlie Boy V8Datto Zedevan

my mate works at autobarn so regularly trys out different "white" globes and says only the more expensive ones put out more light than normal globes (i think these globes can set you back over $100 a pair?) but if ur just after the white look they all do the job...projectors is where its at though, its the only way to get the awesome colours flashing oncoming traffic http://www.haknslash.com/pictures/HID/fritenitesretro/aligned/P1010005.JPG http://www.haknslash.com/pictures/HID/lucent%20lighting/SR20SRT4/P1010011.jpg to replace the lights you jack up the front side of the car you want to do and undo the 4 screws at the back of hte light holder, which then removes with the light. some people reakon you can just undo the 3 screws which hold the light into this holder while its still mounted in the car, but i've never had any luck doing it that way...to change to h4 you'd then have to put some relays in too as stated, although interestingly enough i ran the hid's in my car thoguh stock wiring for quite some time and it all held up, although i wouldn't recommend this...

yep rain rail thingys

i like the amount of flat you have at the edge of those flares nzeder, and it looks clean with the shaved rails, very awesome

i sat in a tall guys z road registered track car that had fixed bucket seats bolted directly to the floor so there was room for his helmet, lol, so there's always that option i'd always liked 240z's but didn't work out i could actully buy one for quite some time...and the reasons not to have one weren't all that important

nah there's pics of a 240z with a vq in it along with the 350z dash and what looks to b an s2000 front with the bonnet modified to open the normal way... i looked into buying one of the kits from him, but there really is no need to as its all stuff easily sourced locally, all up costs about $20 for all the screws/rivet nuts (nutserts) from memory, and the rubber is about $30 as clark rubber likes to charge $5-10 a metre depending which one you go for. there's a guy with a tig welder in nunawading sulio and myself used to cut the guards, was $250 from memory, i'm thinking of taking my car back there to get them cut up higher (as he cut them quite low thinking it was high enough, which it is on my car as it aint as low as sulio's, but hopefully this will change sometime ) and getting rid of the side indicators and antenna hole

thanks heaps for the advice guys! i was thinking/assuming that the difference between hot and cold clearances were just the metal changing size with the heat itself? therefore getting it accurate to the cold sizes makes sense to me, specially since i should prob pull off the cover and see what it all looks like so i atleast kind of know what i'm doing when its hot! so the cold setting will produce atleast a semi accurate hot setting? do you bother going back and checking them when hot nzeder? either way its going to be had for me to make it worse than it currently is, i have to say though i'm impressed with how well this motor has survived the last 3 yrs and 50,000kms+ of abuse with not much love at all, as the only thing thats been done is one oil change...i'm asking for trouble, i know (we need that devil smile face again)

yeah, i think the car he's previously done it in didn't have a very sophisicated oil delivery system....

beautiful

thanks for the offer luke, hopefully my toolbox (neighbours, lol) have some, they seem to have double of everything so far. those instructions seem pretty clear, although my dads suggested method is to adjust them "very slowly" while the engine is running....bad idea??

i saw a random thread on hybridz where someone had adapted what looked to b a similiar idea power steering off some fairly recent jap only car, i can't seem to find it again...

yeah thats understandable thanks chris, took me a while to work out what tdc stood for (top dead centre?) lol, but should hopefully do it this weekend so the cars back in action as driving it atm sounds awful! what would make it go so bad so fast? or it doesn't take much?

thanks for the info, i'll give it a shot on the weekend

yeah noisy tappets is what one of my mates said, so i take off the cover and adjust somethign yeah? i think my dad knows what to do, but he wanted me to find out the answer to what type of lifters it had. dam...i wanted an excuse to change the motor...althoguh i spent half a day last weekend finding and putting on an electric fan as my clutch/viscous fan seized

it looks pretty dam good i hadn't properally thought through the fact you woudlnt' easily be able to drop the gearbox wtih the other mounts where abouts did you get it done? what other work did you get the shop to do? i'm wanting to start collecting parts to do a swap, but then my parents dont seem to keen on having half of another car sitting around for a year lol, and i dont see myself renting a place anytime soon with a garage so i might just have to pay to get it done, i guess it depends how much longer i can hold off! so does this mean ur car is nearly ready to go on the road? re sco's question, are you still able to get the sumps at a decent price?

hey, stupid question, would my stock l26 have hydrolic or solid lifters? my cars started to make quite a bad tapping sound, any suggestions on an easy fix?

castlemaine rod shops one looks pretty full on, there's some pics of it on this guys site. I'm hoping/assuming it doesn't run any lower than the frame rails. sco-aus's one seems more logical to me... on that note has anyone got pics of an rb mounted using their kit? i'm sure i've seen some rb30's mounted with it before...i'm wondering how the engine ends up sitting.

the swap is made to 240z carbs over 260z ones for reliability and the 260z ones had to adhere to stricter emissions laws i believe so they might perform a bit better i know my car had 240z carbs put on it as the 260z ones kept playing up.

cool cool, i tried calling ur number to be told your phone was disconnected! will call you tomorrow

yeah cool cool, just thought there might b others that are disorganised like myself who had forgotten about the dates of the rally lol

so you'd have a spare lh front fender? where abouts are you located?