zedevan

I think my dash was reskinned for just under $500 around 10 years ago, so i have no idea what a current price is, probably depends alot on how good a job they do too. If ur not to fussed you could always get a fibreglass dash or fill up a cracked dash yourself and paint it with either bedliner or that fake suede stuff like what some rally cars have over their fibreglass dashes. I think an rb20 swap would be cheaper and easier than an sr20 since you can buy the mounts and the halfcuts are generally less. there's ppl who put sr20's into skylines and other who put rb20's into silvias, so each has its tradeoffs, mayb drive an r32 and a silvia and see which engine you prefer the characteristics of Regarding the hybrid rb25/30 engines, i remember there being a pdf someone had regarding a rough price of doing this along with tips, does anyone have a link? i've been searching for it through the site but with no luck so far *edit - i think this is it http://www.geocities.com/rb30_twincam/index.html

that auto badge is awesome lol, such a shame new cars dont get the treatment... i was impressed by one of the cars r30's i think it was at the NDSOC thing on southbank that had a sticker on the side stating it had a ceramic turbo

my thoughts are if u want a 4 seater L6 series powered car get a c210 skyline, atleast their whole body shape is square and not a weird mix of the two

that is quite a difference huh? the story i've been told (bought the car off someone who worked with the orginal owner and had owned it for a year) is he had a 1600 but had always wanted a 240z, then decided to make the upgrade at last, so mayb he traded it in? although there is no mention of it on the invoice that i could see, mayb i should look closer... flipping through all the recients for services and maintainance performed on the car makes you realise that its worth paying a bit more for something you like driving since there is so much cost for just running any car! not including petrol/insurance/rego

attached is a pic of my car painted with a layer of plain white, i thought i'd see how it came up as it will be what i do if the colour goes badly (put it next to my bro's white 96 caprice and is very close even in terms of colour, although i'd ultimately like more of an off white like what hondas are known for). i then sanded it back wtih 360grit (i really should of gotten the door flatter as there are a couple of low spots, but i just want to try to mix up the colour i like) i'm still playing with the colour, this is only the first coat of colour and i think its to light. (http://www.autodrome-cannes.com/IMG_0006.JPG is my aim, but also whats on some new citreons and smart car) the door still has some low spots but i can't b bothered fixing them right now, just wanna the ratio for the colour i want for now. I'm also playing around with adding penetrol in with the paint to see how it effects it, then sometime before my car is back on the road i'll paint all of it lol it should be noted that the more coats the deeper the shine, and the darker the colour the more it reflects (why white is easier to paint and therefore my backup plan), but its sure to polish up better than the current result, as with that guy with his mx5, ( http://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=5199&page=5 shows the results the best probably). depending on how this holds up, it will still be a "temporary" paint job as i'd love to have it some metalic colour when i have the money...

good info, fwiw my 2 seater was bought in feb 76 for $7660 including registration, 3rd party insurance, stamp duty and pre-delivery service. was also possibily bought from brighton nissan if they are still on male st? out of curiosity did the numbers start at rs30-01XXXX or at 0? just if there were less than 2000 sold how did they get up to #10000?

interesting, mine just had datsun on an angle above 260z and nothing on the left

i have to agree sulio, very poor form although people do swap out the two turbos for a single, although i know i never would awesome car joel, i've been watching your updates on hybridz over the months, possibly years. its not fair that you guys can get rb engines so cheap over there, although i guess there isn't the wide use for them there is here in aus possibly?

it was for sale before i bought my car, so going on over 3 years now... mayb its just because you can buy a really nice modified 240/260 or orginal 240 for not much more so people aren't willing to pay 11g+ for it? what badge went on the rear left of the car?

I'd also recommend toperformance in vermont, however since they are the koni distributors for australia i doubt they would sell/recommend anything less. My only regret is not going for better susspension straight away, u can always come across more money, but its painful paying for something twice...

realistically a 3.9 mechanical lsd will cost you atleast a grand, just put the diff in from the manual car you had. i found the 3.7 ratio better for general thrashing as my 'new' 3.9 requires changing gears out of 3rd at around 90, also for cruising at 100kmh on a freeway ur sitting nearly 500rpm higher which can't be all that great for petrol consumption. In my opinion the change to an lsd effects the handling of your car alot more than a change in diff ratios will noticeably affect acceleration

nice pics dale. thanks for the info regarding the headlight covers, unfortunately i want them with a metal ring, but also have no spare money right now so i'll have to wait awhile

castlemain rod shop sell a gearbox mount too. I spoke to them about it and they said it comes effectively as two pieces, one part that mounts to the car in a few locations then another that once u have the engine position worked out you weld to the other one. there's a pic of the mount on this site. http://myweb.westnet.com.au/mikeval/Main.htm a disadvantage of it is the pain taking the gearbox out without taking out the motor would be...but if u search for "rb25 mount" it will come up with a thread of some mounts others have.

here's one, lol http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DATSUN-NISSAN-280ZX-5-SPEED-R200-DIFF-ALLOY-WHEELS-L28_W0QQitemZ140178113357QQihZ004QQcategoryZ102336QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem i think while an l28 is a bored out l26 the wall thinkness was kept the same so an l28 can handle being bored out futher than an l26...and therefore is stronger at 2.8 litres than an l26 would be, although i could be confused as i've never paid all that much attention to it... the way i see it, the only reason to keep it an l26 is if u care about the matching numbers. i think my l26 went alright for just a stoke motor, i had no real issues keeping up with friend's sr20 powered 180sx's etc on anything but a straight road. but the easiest way to increase power is to increase displacement?

the headlight covers a few of the cars had on them (like the nice clean white car) looked really nice, anyone know where they got them from and how much?

i'm not in a rush, as long as there ends up being an option for 12"+ vented rotors with decent calipers for hopefully less than 2g all up withing a year that can be engineered i'm happy. keep up the good work

we can always use more cash mayb they need to b polished to bring in the big bucks? lol i could also be persuaded to sell my HID's if anyone is after a set thats basically read to bolt in, although they are low beam only (using early e46 330/m3 projectors). what i've done is hooked up driving lights to turn on using the factory headlight switch and have the hid's on a completely seperate relay and switch. this means the 'pass button' still turns on high beam, and it prevents the hid's from being flashed on which is bad for them...once again looking for around $500+

bahahaha i just read through more of that link to the other thread, so jp240z ur saying $500 is a joke as i should b asking for $800?

is it? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-SU-Carbs-Rebuilt-Restored-NICE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33550QQihZ019QQitemZ290175733506QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD2V how much did u sell urs for? i figured they were fairly hard to come by and remember their price being discussed previously, i'll look for the thread. i was just putting it out there, i'll look into a more realistic price when they are no longer on the car... http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=1387.0 it would be for everything that bolts up to the motor induction wise, so $500 doesn't seem that bad to me since tripples will set you back heaps more and be a pain in the ass to setup, and 260z carbs screw up on u so it doesn't leave a whole lot of other options? i'll see how they go on ebay in a few months

thanks for the tip, but its now gone beyond that i think as one cylinder has no compression when running which they figure is a cracked piston as when its not running it shows compression, however i dont know how this could b causing the noise! the last oil change wasn't that long ago, like 7months or so and not all that many kms, it just went quite a long time without one before that. i changed the gearbox oil at the same time since i dont have a whole lot of money saved up does anyone want 240z carbs, a 260z 2 seater gearbox and a 3.7 ratio open diff when i pull them off my car anytime in the next year? last time i talked to gav he had dibs on the gearbox, looking for offers over $500 for each...

what are the reasons for the engine being on an angle?

kath and kim's influence there nzeder? thanks for the suggestions they all sound plausible, but the guys at the cruise meet point will be able to tell u it sounds like a very mechanical noise and its even louder now so if its exhaust i'll be amazed. some more to the story of noises of the engine is above 3000rpm under load it would make a bit of a noise, but if i stopped accelerating then started again it wouldn't b there, for some reason i assumed it was something to do with the carbs? i dont know if i'll bother pulling off the head or not, as at this stage i can still drive it places instead of towing it lol, so i am going to look into actully doing what i've wanted to do with the car, just without the space to do it or the money needed either lol (did i mention time?), so might b off the road for awhile for a good tidy up but i'll wait and see

got a call from the mechanic who said he can't put his finger on if its a valve seat or a cracked piston, as all cylinders show compression when its on running, but when its running one of the cylinders has no compression he suggested that i take it back home, and take the head off and check the valves and replace one if thats the problem (as its apparently not that hard), and if thats not that then to pull the motor for another one. so this sounds like a good idea to me...

i had only a front one on for a couple of weeks and in that time my car understeered pretty badly a couple of times, i'm not sure if this is just coincidental or not, the rear one stops a few squeaks and rattles from the interiour panels which isn't a bad thing. to get the maximum effect you really need to get one of the triangular front ones...i decided to just get pretty looking ones lol

i'm 90% sure mine had the factory mirror on it and the main body of it was black with a chrome standoff, not particually pointy though. i think alot get changed to 280zx mirrors and other 80's cars?