Natez

run the .bat file, so that it extracts the rest of the files that really is disgusting with that game gav, youd think that they would do enogh research when designing the cars that theyd give the game the right car names etc etc... pathetic... person who did that should get fired

dace, quite interesting your car does 115, should be able to improve on that with some more boost, ... but that 115 shows at least a very low 12 like .1 or .2 as jack does 12.12 on his street/track setup, at 117 get a LSD, and get a tune, and take it back out there... and see how it goes...

check out that adjustable rear arm, and the coil over suspension... and also that full exhaust, exactly the type i want, that exhaust, BRE style.. serously youd be able to find this stuff in japan reasonably cheap, compared to aus prices, of course... i've talked to a parts guy who got me parts for my old S13 silvia, and he said hed be able to find me S30 parts no problem as its a common classic performance car over there so theres still plenty of parts for them etc.... just waiting for him to tell me when he is going back there to fill a container... etc

there is a yellow one, in keilor downs, but the car has a full body kit, GTO stlye front end and corvette rear, im sure ive seen the whole body kit in a US catalog somewhere.... but im 200% sure its either a 280zx or a 260z, with a body kit and yellow... looks ok very unique, but prefer hardtop coupe... i'll try and find the pictures of the body kit

i might just buy it so i can do some stuff inside the house when its to cold outside, like "refreashing parts" etc etc.. either way i'll see if they have it at technical book shop tommorrow and give it a squiz, and i'll reply what i find in it...

hey guys i remember reading US sites about the book HOW TO RESTORE YOUR DATSUN Z-CAR ISBN: 1931128022 Price: $39.95 inc. GST Its that price at technical book shop in the city, i don't mind the price, just need to know if anyone else has used it to help them restoring the car, as if its not that good then i won't bother, but i remember having the book about ehe L6 that gav has now and it was interesting read,

oh i didn;'t see this post but i recomend these guys as well, always got good jags and datsuns, and race porchses there they are working on.. and got a good dyno as well

agreed, once its brook, a used one will cost less than it will cost in time and money trying to fix the broken one... just like new dvd players these days, if it brakes buy a new one, as a new one is a $100 and to get a elec to look at it will cost 80 plus tiny parts..

when i first droove my Z after putting on the extractors and straight pipes it was awesome, droove all the way from sydenham (right next to calder raceway) to highpoint shopping center, where my exhaust place is. was mild from idle to 3k, but after that on WOT sounded awesome can't wait to get the simliar feeling happening again

nah the ones with the 4age motors are corolla twin cams ae82 86kw or corolla SX or GTI 100kws which are ae92 models, or you got toyota levin, trunos from jap which are 86kw 4age also... they are all 1.6 dohc injected... i know all that toyota shit, as i had a toyota sprinter and i did a 100kw 4age conversion in it, went allright but was nothing like the old Z i had, reason why im back to the Z again... the corona is 2ltr 2rc or something like that, and got 73kw, single cam 4cyl carby, and only weighs like 970kg for a 4 door sedan so its light, and its RWD also, so some minor fun in the week, so it gets off the line well and gets to 100kmh without reving the guts out of it, so its a good daily i think. it gets like 557ks out of 37.20c as my sister did that last week, as motor and accessores in great condition just the starter as i'll fix that after exams They sell in the post for like 500-2000 all in all, its a reliable daily, so it doesn't take time away from the Z on the weekends like my old sr20det silvia did, and not drink petrol like the silvia did nor will i have the erge to hit 16psi every gear and slide down the street in this corona, (but that was cause of my driving style as well)

hey guys, good news for me, ive got a new daily driver A 83 Corona St141, 73kw of brute power, 2ltr 4cl 5spd with spotless interoir, REALLY CONFY SEATS and the outside is rusting and fading away the old POO brown color, which will be good to park at swinburne carpark Its was originally a old ladys car, that we got the car with 160k around 5 years ago, and 2 years of my sister living in bellerat with the car not garaged, cause the shinning paint to fade, and now start to rust... and has around 310ks so now its mine, and gives me more room to breath with my Z, which will be getting along in a few weeks, once exams are over... just quite excited as all i have to pay for the car is the $512 for the reg and the cars mine with $12months reg... runs great,but needs a new starter or i'll just keep using the hammer... haha

congrats to us

haha awesome, Most look like industrial and truck/bus turbos, i can't see any HKS2530s therre,,,

my friend got a non adjustable stut brace for his 200sx, it didn't fit onto his 200sx, never been in a accident etc etc, he got a adjustable one and it fitted.... so a mass produced one is worth getting adjustable, otherwise if its custom, no point making it adjustable unless you arn't that confitable taking proper measurements or something or you want to try and pull back you struts a few mm, whic ive also seen done...

1uz is also one of my options, but i really prefer to keep the car n/a inline 6, just because thats they way i want my car, and im not after all out power, just good n/a response

i was told by a friend who recently went there that there are roadworks happening further down, and apparantly won't be done till august, is what i was told by a person who lives near fairhaven.... its what i was told...

looks fantastic, Ive never seen a turbo in that position before, i beleive jack got a custom bellhousing from sydney, you can contact him on email yatzka@hotmail.com not sure if hed use that email, but contact via msn and he will be on during the day at work etc... Also you'll break Uni's all day long with decent tyres, so either a 280zx turbo CV setup will be great, or a more custom R32 rear end...

arch ie Will, had some awesome white lights on his car, not sure if he is still in the Z world anymore, but you can get him usually on zerounited@hotmail.com from personal experiance my old Z which had a H4 conversion was just as good as my old silvia and ae86 for lighting....

hey dave Im looking at converting to full S13/R32 coil over suspension at the front, using some bits and peices, and custom tie rods, but its happening a slow process, as the car will be painted before any of that starts to get custom made etc.. but ive test fitted and it looks like it will work but with custom tie rods, and adjustable tension rods and not sure what control arm just yet, but most likely be from another nissan, or just a adjustable one. trying to get the proper dimensions for the actaul front subframe of a R32 to see what can fit etc, but most likely will be using stock crossmember, not sure if anyone has looked at using a R32 front end, as they are really cheap these days, also S series or R series rearnends will fit into S30s, will only some custom stuff, not sure if a victorian engineer will pass it, but in queensland they did. but i have seen struts tops on a 260z that was club reged, im sure you can get strut tops and adapt it to your struts, if you are on performance forums, (www.performanceforums.com) you can get in contact with user "lambs" im 86% sure his was the car that i saw, down in melbourne, not sure of his complete suspension setup, but it was alot of custom work at home kind of stuff,

sorry evan im to tired to understand your post where did you get the one on your car from and for how much, and it wasn't new was it, do they same place sell new ones... Thanks, need to get one before the car gets painted.

great ocean road has roadworks, not sure if its a good idea,

i paid 2.5k for a project car that is virtually accident free, few bumps dings, striped but all parts, matching engine, rust free for a 74 last year, the people wanting 10k for a 2+2 is something that i wouldn't pay personally, but ive seen alot of 2+2 that have been restored and people spending 20k on them, and trying to get some the money back, but i wouldn't buy a 2+2 anyway, so my opinion has no relavance Right now as my financial situation in't fantastic, still at school etc, but if i was earning say 80k a year, and was looking for that fun car i had in my old young days, and there was a restored 2 seater for 15-25k i would pay that amount these days, as i know the value of the car and i know quality from hacked up and boged up cars... The main thing keeping the Cars sale price lower, is because around 5 years ago they were sellng for only 2-7k and they were in reasonable condition, and the older generation that might be selling the car, is still thinking year 7k is a good enough, while really they could asked 10k and most likely get it, its hard to price Zs as there arn't many up for sale anymore, and a shit one could sell for 8k and a fantastic one could sell for 8k, its going to take another 5 or so years for the market to realise the really shit ones in need of restore and the restored ones, All in all, they are slowly going up, and think about it this way, buy a new commodore loose like 5k driving out of the dealer then another 10k over 2 years, buy a Z, loose nothing and have more fun,

Im happy that you understood the point to my post dave, fact is everyone has got a Z car because they are unique, and most of that uniqueness in every Z car, im also happy you read the whole post didn't realise how long it was My point being with the manifolds is being if you are getting a stock L series turbo stuff, they are alot more retricting that stock Rb25 parts, meaning your going to have to make custom stuff alot earlier with the L series power process than you would with a Rb25. and alos Rb25 stuff is easier to obtain, multiple throtles off a GTR, or a turbo manifold, easy $450 HKS, just easier IMO, also with the gearbox situation, as if your running over 200rwkw a Stocker L series 5spd ain't going to like the torgue put though the rear wheels if you are looking at semi slicks, and a good clutch etc, as gears will be breaking like every week,so a R33 gearbox and a custom bellhousing would be in line as well, Ive been in a Jacks L28et and it does go extremly well, no doubt about that, he had to change to R33 box as well, and is a awesome car it is, And i'll be just as excited to see your setup in your car, Whats your setup, what have you done to the motor etc, etc and gearbox setup also, sounds like a awesome car, also does the P510 Also costas L31, looks stock as a rock from the outside, still running the Su's as well, and as you said dave we can carry on about personal perferance about every little part of the Zs untill cows come home.

Be wary these are my opinions: In my opinion, if you are going to go L28et, unless you have a L28et already done i don't see the point in using it, Personally id go a Rb25det setup, as its already turbo, hella newer engine, yes i know you have to make new mounts get everything engineerd, but is the same thing with L28et, and L31 as your going to get brakes, suspension and a tougher rearend anyway. The L28et will need new manifolds, computer, injectors, and a host of other little bits which arn't as easily obtained as Rb25 parts, that you just go to a jap performance place, and asked for a HKS manifold, or a Power FC computer, or a list of other bits and peices, unless you get a L28et thats done less than 150ksor a rebuilt motor with a stock or better turbo, and all the wiring for less than 3k Id say go for it, but it will cost you more money in the end to get most power, as to get power out of the L28 and run reliably you need internal engine work for oil galleries and for heating as well, also stronger head parts as well. so the costs just rise and rise as lets face it if your going turbo, its a power race, so you'll want that sort of power meaning over200rwkw, in the end its better to spend the 3500 outright and get the better engine and box +the 1kfor mounts etc, then start with the L28et, In my opinion on L31s, fantastic motor if they are eithr tripple webbered (time consuming tuning every weekend or so) or if its injected multiple throttled, will cost a few k, in the end to be drivable and not to be playing with every weekend. but good sides is won't need to be engineererd as par Victoria, and most states, so 1 good side, and the Turbo has more potential than the L31, will get more power out of it, but realistic and responsive power might be on the same area, as getting the right torque curves etc, All in all its each to there own, like myself i'm going RB25de NEO in my 260z, with multiple throttles, because at the end of the day, im after maximum response not outright power, as the Z is a corner car for me not a straight line and want a newer technology motor and also something a bit differant But no one can say that the L31 won't sound the best, hope i don't get flamed, PS: Gav, by the time everything falls into place for your motor, you'll be 24-25 anyway so wats the differance also back to the tread, id go L31 over L28et personally due to above reasons

if you want cheap and decent qaulity go to fantastic plastics, you should get a whole job for around the 1200-1500 mark, but be prepared to get a better job done in 3-5years down the track.... Zworx can be trusted 80%of the time, ive got to send my car there for final rust prep before i get it sent to my painter which i havnt decided on yet.... paint wise, look at spending 3-5k for a decent job, with 3-4coats and 6-12coats of clear, as what i am looking at getting, most likely be going to Rocky in tullamarine, which will cost me 3750 for basically a bare metal respray, but that includes some panel work, and engine bay etc... in bmw green, mmm can't wait...