Ben

No, sorry. She was sold just last week. Lives in Melbourne now - expect to see her at NDSOC events.

Model: 1983 DR30 Skyline RS-X Turbo Location: Adelaide Asking Price: $15,000, no swaps please. Item Condition: Excellent Body: minor chips & scratches - hey it was a daily driver for a few years... Mechanical: Lots of Nissan & aftermarket goodness Registration: Not at present, but will probably register for AJD (as usual!) Engineers Certificate: N/A (has SA Compliance Plate) Extra Info: As per the ad on the Datsuns Downunder FB page... 1983 DR30 Skyline RS-X Turbo 'Iron-Mask' (Red over metallic midnight-blue, black with red-stripe interior) Imported in 2002, one of the last non-intercooled DR30's (built September 1983) Fitted with cruise control, power windows, power mirrors, headlight washers, rear wiper, parking lights front/rear, split-fold rear seat and other features, the RS-X Turbo was the flagship of the R30 Skyline range. Since buying this car in February 2002, the following major work has been performed; Resprayed body Rebuilt engine (all genuine parts) R32 GT-R engine mounts Rebuilt gearbox New RB30 clutch Re-trimmed rear seat, SAAS drivers' seat New genuine door & window seals Fitted 4.375:1 R200 LSD, rebuilt with higher breakaway torque (Originally 3.90:1 R200 LSD) RB30ET TO3 compressor cover 3” exhaust Haltech E6A ECU PWR water-to-air intercooler, with 9L tank and Bosch 'Cobra' pump (ECU controlled) 16” F8S RS Watanabe wheels, with locking nuts KYB shocks (adjustable rear) Lowered King springs K-mac bars EBC pads New clutch master/slave & braided line Reconditioned brake master (just fitted) Reconditioned steering box (late 2013) 140+ rwkW (last dyno run was early 2013) This car is great fun to drive, and has a healthy dose of reliable power. It's a classic Nissan, and a car I'd prefer to be able to keep. But circumstances have changed, and I don't get the time to maintain or drive her like I used to - a daily driver for the first few years, then after having a family, usually registered during spring and autumn each year. I've done about 35000km in the car over the last 12 years. This car has been a regular at All-Japan-Day in Adelaide - and the odd Z-car cruise! There are a few stone chips/scratches in the paint (mainly the front spoiler/grille), and some fractured paint on the rear bumper – where I reversed into a carport... The factory cruise doesn't work, as it relies on the original ECU (it didn't engage at anything over 100km/h anyway). There is a missing power-window switch in the rear – a part that was unfortunately NLA from Nissan even back in 2002. It's worth more that it will sell for (aren't they all?), but the asking price is $15000. I want her to go to someone who will appreciate the marque - and not decide to turn it into a drift car, and wrap it around a pole the first time they get the back end loose... Contact Details: PM for starters...

Why not?

http://www.adelaidenow.com.au/sport/motor-sport/adelaide-hills-driver-peter-hall-dies-in-hospital-three-days-after-crashing-in-phillip-island-race/story-fnii0hpw-1226749927644#

I have received a copy of the message posted by the Chaplain of the Sporting Car Club of SA - Peter has indeed passed away as a result of his injuries.

Just got an update - the story is that he is in the ICU and has a broken neck between the C1 & C2 vertebra, among other serious injuries. The hospital staff are not confident that he's going to make it. I sure hope that they're wrong...

Awww crap, I've known Peter for years, and he's one slick driver and a great guy. Pretty bad news.

That restriction is effectively the 'pressure regulator' for the OEM Hitachi setup. I agree with those that have used the OEM feed as a return and fitted a new 3/8 feed. I have had starvation issues - but that was because I had to remove the surge tank and ran the fuel level too low. I'm now converting to a drain-plug setup, not sure if I'll fit a surge tank again - space is real tight now that the R200 is fitted, and I've got my Racor high-pressure filter at the back of the car too.

Now that we're clear that 'stick' is your preferred solution, you may be wondering why the RB20DET FS5W71C box was suggested over the 'standard' FS5W71B conversion. There are a few reasons; 1. Double synchros 2. Newer (therefore, easier to get parts for, and find for sale in the first place) 3. Stronger It's the way to go these days. One day I'll do this conversion to my DR30, but for the time being, the rebuilt FJ20ET box is working just fine. (and in all honesty, I've probably forgotten how the Z drove with the kitted auto. I seem to recall that full throttle shifts were 'fun'... )

Another option, only 2 words; "Shift Kit" Every auto gearbox needs one...

Done - I'll leave it up to you if you want to host them on the site somewhere. I have PDF's of other models available too - PM me if you want to discuss further.

Found 'em Gav - I have put them on my Google Drive, got an account I can give access to?

Microfiche or the hard copy parts manual. PDF's are also out there (I've got pretty much all the pre-1980's stuff as PDF's - somewhere...) Note that a lot of the part numbers have been superseded, but you can still usually make headway with getting the right part by having the original numbers. I recently bought a full set of OEM manifold fasteners (L28E). They were completely different to the original set, and much better designed parts (captive washers, higher grade bolts etc.)

The headlight dimmer is a 'pull-down' arrangement. It either provides an earth to the high beam or low beam filament. If you get stuck for making the original work, you could always put in a separate 'change-over' style switch on the dashboard.

That is sensational - You usually only hear 'rumours' of someone that might have known someone that had one of these, at sometime in the past... But here is a real LZ, really getting rebuilt - opportunities like this almost never come up. This is a special engine people, enjoy seeing it.

That's the one! (yeah, I know, just couldn't remember 'what' it was )

I've purchased from MSA on many occasions (took delivery of some bushes only a couple of weeks ago) - had the opportunity to visit their shop myself in 1999. Pity it was on Thanksgiving and they were closed

I need to pay more attention... I only found out about this today when a work colleague (who's getting his Chev truck worked on at Paul's shop) told me about it :-\

Not sure that an RB30 would fit - they are taller than the 20/25/26 Always liked the Z31, nearly bought one before I got the 240Z - '89 Californian, leather, turbo and $21k !!! Back in 1995 that is...

I've got an HR31 4.375 in my DR30, and in retrospect I think that a 4.11 would have been better (the factory 3.90 feels a little tall for the FJ20ET). With an auto in the Z, a 3.70 would probably be the sweet spot (I've previously hit the limiter in top gear with the 3.90 without too much trouble at all, and that was with only 200rwhp...) When upgrading to an R200, proper length shafts are a very good idea. That usually means a CV conversion.

Welcome, My 2IC at work has recently offloaded his '03 Clio Sport and bought a black '10 Megane RS from Victoria. It's just been remapped with his RS-Tuner and it goes like stink... I too offer my services to evaluate any potential purchases. I've had my 240Z completely apart and back together again, and am in the process of doing some parts of it a second time (upgrades to upgrades). They don't come up all that often here, so you might have to accept something of a low-ish standard if you're determined to get a foot in the door.

If the reason for the conversion is due to big power, then I recommend billet 5-lug stubs (there are several manufacturers out there). The original ones are around 40 years old these days, and the 240Z stub axles are smaller (and weaker) than the 260Z ones. Not cool for longevity behind a grunty L6 or V8. I admit, I'm using 260Z Stubs with adapters to suit the Z31/HR31 turbo 4-bolt Birfield-Rzeppa CV's. But if I had the money, I'd replace both the stubs and adapters with billet units. If you're looking for a better selection of wheels, then it's a bit of stuffing around for a cosmetic result (IMHO).

The oil pickup can extended without issue. The dipstick hole will need to be re-drilled, or done away with. A stock L28E is worth about 15% more power at the treads than a stock L24E, FWIW.

Top work on the win Grug - She look s a million bucks! Here's a photo of when #254 was being collected in January 2004, little did it know what the future held.

I bought some some Kameari bits from Brian in late 2010, the shipping was a bit delayed (he was on holidays) but nothing major. He got them drop-shipped from Japan.