gav240z

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-2-DOOR-COUPE-/400929206786 HLS30 01754 Nice early S30z in the US. 9 days to go and already at $17k I've noticed good 240z's have been selling for 20K+ in the US (driver quality cars) and 72/73 models. Generally it's the early 70 models that are getting bigger coin in the US/Canada. Remember the North American market has always lagged the other global markets due to sheer number of cars available. Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abMbhjZf7SY Nissan 2400 OHC valve cover Under carriage looks to have been patched up a little? Looks like a good little unit.

Speaking of rear hatches. Early S30z rear hatch. Nearly $900 AU http://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/192934202 Wish we got the vertical defrost glass in AU market.

I got 1 by accident I think, asked for an L28 valve cover gasket and was given this weird rubber 1. I wasn't sure how it would work so I never used it. Why do you want 1?

So Lurch told me off for lack of progress on Safari Gold project and I thought I've been thinking of trying to restore these for ages, but like many things it won't restore itself. So I decided to give it a go today, having a spare set is helpful because I was less worried about ruining a good unit. I did a search for a couple of threads on here and found these. 1. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=5144.0 - doesn't cover 'restoration' just clean up. 2. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=10249.0 - removing scratches from perspex. 3. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9411.msg98506.html#msg98506 and 3a. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9411.msg104996.html#msg104996 Best information on here so far, also Special 3 recommends a place in Sydney for chrome vacuum plating. http://www.bronzingstudio.com.au/ http://www.chrometech.com.au/ They are in Castle Hill Sydney - I'll be sending my chrome trims to them for restoration. 4. Skyline's Australia Forum C110 project. Refer to post #4 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405899-75-c110-gtr-build/ http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405899-75-c110-gtr-build/?p=6467401 OEM early S30z tail lights (non North American style) with the amber turn signal now sell for around $2000 AU in NOS shape. So if you can restore what you have you'll save quite a bit of cash. This is what I'm starting with, the gunk on the lens is from gaffer tape, the previous owner put that on to stop the tail light lens falling off during transit from S.A to N.S.W It was a prick to remove! It had baked itself on good. I used a combination of a scrubbing pad (kitchen), metho / spirits, hot water and finally a razor blade - which left minor scratches in the lens. Right side. I didn't work on this yet. But it was in 'reasonable shape' to start with, it has a hairline crack in it though which won't polish out. After removing the gunk from the left side. You can see the lens is very dull. Housing before. Not sure if the blue is over-spray or factory mark? Either way it got removed. The housing after scrubbing in hot water with a scouring pad and 800 grit sandpaper (with soapy water). I was careful near the koito logo I also went lighter around the factory stamping. Chrome Trim - retaining clips. Removing these was a pain, I got 1 off without issue the other snapped off... Not sure how I'll repair these just yet. I used my welding pliers to pull them off. You can see 1 of the pins is shorter (where it snapped due to fatigue). To restore the lens sheen I started with 600 grit paper. You can see after going over it (with soapy water, wet sanding) it now has a dull finish. This is normal. Use a zig zag / cross-hatch pattern when sanding. Go left to right, then top to bottom with each level of sandpaper grit. I had various grits from 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 and finally 2500 - I went over the lens with each grit. You'll see it start to become more and more clear (the lens). In particular the reverse (white) part will go from a foggy cloudy look to a see through clear. After wet sanding 2000 grit. After 2500 grit. It's improved but still not got that gloss to it. You can see how the reverse part and amber part at the bottom if now completely clear or transparent. It wasn't like this to begin with. Having read that others used metal polish with good results I cracked out a metal polishing kit I bought a while ago. It has different 'rouges' and mops. I don't have a bench grinder so I used the drill. As you can see the bar of soap looking thing 'rouge' is what you use the mop with. The kit had 3 different levels of aggressiveness for the mops, I started with the second mop as the harsh 1 would have been more harsh than the sandpaper I used previous. After using the polishing kit (medium and fine) each mop has a different rouge you use. I then got the plastic X from Meguirs (seen in earlier photos) and rubbed that on. Using a rag I removed all the excess compound from the lens. Here is how it looks now. Right side hasn't been restored yet, but was in better shape than the left side. It's hard to tell in this photo, but look at the reverse section in particular. Here is a close up of the right hand side which shows it's not as good. Transparency! Chrome trims sitting on... Next steps. 1. Re-chrome the trims and paint black in between. 2. See if I can improve the front of the housing - it's gone a bit yellow-ish (like old plastic) which might I might be able to fix with something like Retr0Bright. http://www.retr0bright.com/ 3. Sikaflex the housing and find some foam for the lower drain holes. 4. Figure out what to do with the broken retaining clips etc.. 5. Experiment with clear coating to tail lights and polishing the clear coat for max shine! Warning: 1 downside of this was that I noticed after my lens (amber part in particular) has lost some of the stamping from the plastic moulding due to the sanding of the lens. With the others that I restore I may try and go lighter around those areas to prevent rubbing these out. Only a fanatic like me would notice but if it's important to retain these markings you'll want to be careful. Feedback and other techniques are welcome as I'll be doing the others shortly.

I almost suspect it's not an OEM cover, almost. I don't think I've ever seen it before.

Never seen that cover before. Also no need to be sorry .

In the same plastic style? Not really sure... Wouldn't surprise me.

It's plastic fantastic has it's own unique gasket (rubber style) as oppose to the flat cork like gasket you normally find on an L-Banger. Apparently it's from a NISSAN Cedric, Gloria, and leopard. But I seem to recall seeing 1 or 2 here in Australia. I'm not in love with them to be honest I think they stick out like dogs bollocks but I've seen them listed for close to $1000 AU on Yahoo! Auctions.

That would make sense, pretty sure this valve cover was off a P90 I used to own before a mechanic commandeered it for himself along with some of my monies. I don't suppose to know if we ever got any L-series in Australia with this cover do you? You don't want to know what these go for....

I'm in 2 minds about selling this, kind of want to keep it but would consider selling it or swapping. Hard to tell without side by side, but this is the smaller version for comparison. I'll sell it for $400 AU (seen them sell for this on Yahoo! Auctions) or swap directly for a Nissan 2400 valve cover. - Early L24 cover. Which also sells for around $300-$400. I had started to sand this cover back to polish it but didn't quite get around to finishing it. Also to clarify the version being offered for sale here is the BIG Nissan cover. However if there is any interest in the smaller version let me know?

Hi guys, This was out of the Safari Gold 240z, it looks like the face was modified to suit the unique DIN style of the early S30z heater control unit. I don't need it as I'm going with the original Hitachi unit. There was some weird unit with it, pictured below. Not sure what it does? I've tried to find info on this head unit but haven't had much luck. So not even sure what it's worth. Going to list it at $100 + postage (not sure if it works either as I haven't tried it). But figure it might be of interest to someone here looking for a 'period correct' interior for their S30z. If no interest I'll eventually stick it on eBay.

More Honda S800 material. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHMIoJqO6jY

If you want original style fasteners etc.. just let me know which ones you can't find. I'm pretty sure if you look in the right places you can find a lot of the original style fasteners.

Might be sold. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,15888.msg167763.html#msg167763

Someone on here was selling a half cut a while ago. AirCobra I think was there username. They were pretty desperate to offload it due to space constraints. Give them a tinker-bell.

Oh and by the way does anyone know what the screwable piece on the balance tube is for? It has an adjustment screw on it that controls how much air is sucked in, I've got 1 on my 240z and someone a while ago told me they were good to have. I'm not sure if it has any benefit so was thinking of removing it, I can't help but think it's part of some emission control system from later S30z's like 260z onward?

Nice, did you repaint the carbs that silver colour or just water blast them to clean them up nicely? How did you get all the fasteners, screws, bolts, linkages yellow zinc/chromate plated and keep everything in order? Or didn't you bother trying to keep everything in order? This is the only reason I haven't yet disassembled mine after ordering a rebuild kit from ZTherapy, also wondering if you opted to re-bush the throttle shafts?

Yep posted that here: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2630.msg169740.html#msg169740

Are you thinking what I'm thinking B1? http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/whitfield/cars-vans-utes/1965-honda-s600-s800-convertible-parts-see-description-/1073586478

Honda S600 Rat Rod style.

I think right now 80s classics haven't hit their stride, think about the 240K's for example. It's only been recently they really took off, because they were all scrapped and basically there is no supply. Unlike S30z's which were a little more cherished, 240k's were ignored for ages. I think the same will happen to cars like the Starion, maybe the first and second gen RX-7s? But that will take another 5-10 years I think... I wouldn't sell the Silvia if you don't have to, although it's hard to know with these things where values will go. The S30z has sort of gone crazy lately, a lot of it is video games, pop culture etc.. The Silvia is a lesser known car and that's part of the problem. I guess it also depends if you have the funds to restore it the way it should be done. That article didn't mention early rotaries which I always find interesting. They seem to be going up in value, the Cosmo is probably somewhat responsible. I'm not even sure what a good R100 changes hands for now. I think they seldom come up for sale now, there is none left in Japan it would seem (as in projects) same with RX-2, RX-3 etc.. I think the point of the article was to think outside the normal paradigm of collector cars. Maybe having an odd ball car is a good hedge bet? That's why I think it's important to have a passion for the car, because if there is truly something special about a car then others will recognise it at some stage, the trick is to be 1 of the first to recognise it. A neighbor has 1 of these rotting in his drive (same livery and everything). I can't help but think it's a good time to buy it, at some point their values will go up. It's been sitting since 2002. I think early 80s stuff will start to appreciate in 5-7 years. Already my mates and I were talking about getting a DeLorean that is our birth year.

Best to call mate, get an answer right away.

Fair enough Ron did an awesome job and it looks great! Is it loud?

Oh maybe it's a flood limit, sending too many in a row. That's to prevent spammers from sending everyone messages on the site. Should be able to send more once some time has passed.

Since it's topical.. Little bit of lost in translation going on. 5:39 was a bit of a laugh, yes much better than English engine no oil leaks haha. I totally forgot they made a single OHC version of the 2000GT.