gav240z

I don't think that car is overpriced at all. Similar cars in Japan asking $70k +

If you have an L28 block and a good N42 or p90 head already use that to build a motor on the side. If you want to keep the L24 source an L26 crank and give mild overview for 2.7ltr. I plan to do this with my 72 240z eventually. So I can keep car and motor together. I will find a late E88 head and modify that to work with it (whilst giving the illusion of completely original) ? funny cause the only person to fool is myself. However if you want a stroker, can't go past the L28 block, just gotta find 1 that will go to 89mm that is the hard part.

The 280zx E12 module (think they are Hitachi made). It's got a bit of shaft wobble I think. Slightly arc's on the inductor I think. I have 1 of those Mitsubishi ones to go on it instead, but want to recurve it to suit. Not sure if we should throw a bigger cam in it though! It's pretty quick as it is, but would be good to eek a bit more out of it.

Just goes to show that well configured Mikuni/Solex or Weber and the right ignition curve with electronic ignition can perform well. The Mikuni's on my 72 have a good progressive feel, not quite fuel injection, but compared with the SU's are like day and night. And yet we haven't really done anything to the jetting yet, I believe the jetting is configured for a standard L28, but could probably use some tweaking for improved AFR's. Ignition curve is probably slightly aggressive given that we do get some pinging under load.

I believe Alan has commented on this car before, nb: the odd chassis no... with the x at the end..

Hey Folks, Just a heads up that I plan to run an upgrade soon (doing backups etc..) More details here. https://invisioncommunity.com/4guides/welcome/install-and-upgrade-r259/?_fromLogin=1#testinstall The only item most members need to worry about is this. User / Display Names Usernames and display names have been merged in Invision Community. As the administrator, you may select which to keep during the upgrade process. Please note that this field will be the publicly displayed field for the user. At the moment it's possible to use a login name but have a different display name on the forum. For example I could have gavin as my login name but gav240z as my display name. These will be merged going forward, meaning I'll need to pick 1 field to keep whilst the other is discarded. My inclination is to keep username and if folks wish to change it after the upgrade that's ok. To be honest very few members use this ability (or probably know it exists), but in the interest of giving everyone time to adjust for this in advance I wanted to call this out. Upgrade hiccups. I am going to tackle this when I have spare time (which is never) and I am expecting to run into at least 1 or 2 snags along the way. The forum may be down longer than anticipated and when we recover the look and feel may have changed, I am contemplating retiring the homepage part of the site along with the articles (features and news sections). I do want to migrate that across to the new software so it's all housed under the same roof and that will allow me to open up home page publishing to other members of the group (useful for events etc..). The other unknown is how older style URLs will be handled, as part of the migration to this software I was able to map back the old historical URLs to map and redirect to the newer style URLs. This meant no broken links when clicking through old threads. I wish to retain that if possible moving forward but will need to look into this. Once everything is upgraded and working smoothly the next step in the process may be to move to cloud based hosting - which may bring down the costs of hosting significantly and allow for future scalability and less restrictions around image uploads etc. I'll post more announcements closer to the date of this all happening. I'm in the process of finishing a large backup (multiple gigs of attachments etc..). Hopefully things will go better than planned and the upgrade will run smoothly with no problems.

Looks like a C210 Steering wheel.

Yeah drivability will be much better, cold starts etc.. peak HP is another matter, but it is an N/A motor and I'm sure the limit is the cam and head work. Still a good result.

Carbs vs EFI on a Datsun 1600 (510).

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/17196-bulk-panel-import-round-2-may-2018/

Kats just shared a nice brochure here (of a Safari Gold 240z). Images rotated. https://photos.app.goo.gl/QBaHBx5vqmxWHwZg2 Perfect!

No rush might be a little way off yet.

Slow day at the office I'm guessing?

Still chasing a passenger arm rest (previous owner didn't see it in his house move). Also chasing the bottom bolt on a fuel pump (I had to steal the 1 off #150) and I hate robbing Peter to pay Paul.

Even the best cars are not 100% original. http://mycarquest.com/2014/04/the-meaning-or-lack-of-meaning-of-concours-condition.html

Can't find any good ones locally? Can put you down. But all North American fenders have indicator cut outs. AU and HK markets didn't have holes. But they are exception rather than rule.

I've got a few sitting in a box. Need to pull the 1 out of HS30 01415 and replace it with a Quartz modified Jeco. May send them up to your dad then.

Thank you for bringing it to the attention of every S30Z enthusiast here . I was already bidding haha.

You mean the picture in the parts manual doesn't give you a good sense of what it looks like? I'm shocked, shocked! I took some photos for you of my spare pedals (remember I want to do a manual conversion?) https://photos.app.goo.gl/oMrMQ3ZNhBDHRsB5A You could make it if it you had no other choice, but since this part missed out on it's gold passivate plating I intend to dock you several points at the next concours event I'm judging.

Also there is a lot of aftermarket manifolds floating around on Yahoo! Auctions, but often missing linkages and have been modified (port matched to who knows what engines) etc.. for $250-$300 odd asking before shipping, importing duties, broker fees etc.. simply not worth buying second hand. Go with the proven manifold with everything new for a bit more. That's what I did and bought the Harada manifold.

Depends on power you're making, most here won't need the big port as they are not running a 3.1+ltr L28 with 50mm Solex Carbs hanging off it. Under 300HP and the small port is fine.

Is that Dave Lyons car?

Could this be it? Could this be an HS30 chassis prefix car with a 903 Blue exterior and Blue interior? The Unicorn I've been searching for? HS30 00021 perhaps? *Edit just finished the article, which repeats a lot of myths that have been debunked many times in the past. Dave Lyons of Hout Bay in Cape Town is apparently it's owner. Link to magazine here. https://issuu.com/classiccarafrica/docs/01_final_low_res_magazine_june_july

Just looking for a lazy way out of fabricating that section if possible.I have a spare fuel filler section I got off Ashley ages ago, but the other quarter panel shape is what I need. However it could be fabricated.

So I spoke to the previous owner last night (what a novel idea hey?) I wanted to ask him about the alarm system and he told me there is a kill switch in the car, but in order to activate it you need to touch a specific wire while cranking the car. It was previously linked with a screw on the console and you would just touch that to complete the connection. So I will need to look for this wire and make sure to do that next time. I also asked about the switch under the steering column (toggle switch, black) but he can't recall what it was for, thinks it was installed before his time, may have been a fog lamp switch (as Laurie had fog lamps hooked up) and they were removed. The switch on the dashboard we also think was some kind of defogger switch, but the defogger window was removed before Luke got the car. Good to know! He told me he definitely had it running on "start ya bastard" sprayed down the throats, but not on the fuel in the car before he sold it. I told him the fuel pump felt warm to touch after ignition was on, but he said if it was working you would know because it made quite a bit of noise. It was dead quiet when I checked. I also noticed the fuel lines were completely dry. I told him about the fuel looking at bit old and he said it would definitely be a good idea to drain it and replace with fresh fuel. I asked him about the original owner, but he said he thought it was unlikely Laurie would still be around, said he was in his 80s when Luke bought the car and was selling the car because he couldn't get in and out of it anymore. He said it's possible he's still around and you never know but sadly he may not be here anymore. I told him I tried to look up his old business address and name, but couldn't come up with anything. Luke did tell me he thought he had quite a bit of cash, as the 240z was kept in a warehouse with E-types, Ferrari's etc.. and that Laurie had quite a collection! We also chatted about the amp gauge, as this has been bypassed, the reason is because a friend was hooking up the battery on the 240z 1 day and reversed polarity by accident and it blew up the AMP gauge or at least Luke tells me he traced the fault to there. I have 2 spare 260z AMP gauges, which show different numbering (240z shows -45 -> + 45) where as the 260z ones show (-60 -> +60), but pulling it apart it appears to be pretty simple. So although the scale on them is different, I'd be surprised if they are mechanically much different.