roof solder

[Linton]

ok Ihave had to cut some rust out of the roof right through the solder joint, what is the best way to put it back together dont think my solder iron is the answer  :-\

[zzzzed]

weld it up and fill it with body filler

 

[Sirpent]

This may be your alternative,

 

Its a metal epoxy filler, Ive used these Knead it products before and they are very versitile

 

http://www.selleys.com.au/putty/epoxy/knead-it-steel

 

Cheers

 

John

[dazzed]

i think this part of the car is a flexible joint, if you use something that sets rock hard you may find it will crack through to the paint work further on, a light weight flexible body filler should be ok , wurth have a good one

[aussie240z]

Try using the two part glue that is used in current body assembly.

I have used this for several body joints and filling in a sunroof panel. It isn't cheap but sets like  rock but maintains torsional strength with body twist etc. I will find the product name and post it. I bought mine from a body repair supply house in small cartridges. You have to buy/rent/borrow the syringe system to use it with, it mixes and applies in one process. I used cleco's to secure the panels while the glue set. Will update cheers Ian

 

[Linton]

thankyou for the replys thought I may have to grind out the lead 1/2 inch each side and weld in some panel which would have melted the lead all over the place yuk wasn't looking forward to that. the "need it steel" sounds interesting, aussie240 I will contact one of my buddies a backyarder and see if he has the glue

[PeterAllen]

As someone mentioned earlier there is a bit of twist in that area. Some of the 250 GTO kits crack right at that point. I would be looking for something with a bit of give. Have you considered lead wiping - not really all that hard for a one-off try.

[Linton]

just checked the piece I took out it was welded and the joint then covered with lead, Should I weld a piece in behind the lead? not just fill in the gap worried it might crack if its not welded

[PeterAllen]

Absolutely weld it. I was just suggesting the lead to fill any large depressions.

[Linton]

ok thanks

[aussie240z]

This link http://www.loctite.com.au/aue/content_data/87866_Teroson_Brochure.pdf is to the product doc of the sort of product in panel bonding. Was shown use of this and the TAFE bodywork course last year and have used the same type of product from my local vehicle crash repair supplier. (Just to be clear, I have no association with them at all).

Found it very strong and quick to work with, just need to be quick to place and fix the panel once the glue has been applied.

The Henkel details are as follows:

HENKEL AUSTRALIA PTY LTD

135 – 141 Canterbury Road

Kilsyth, Victoria 3137

www.teroson.com.au

Phone: 1 300 88 555 6

Assume they would give you details of distributors etc

Cheers

[PeterAllen]

Linton - Apologies if I've got this wrong but what you have is a butt joint scenario. That will have to be welded and the filler you use will then depend on the amount required to achieve an even surface. I think what Ian is recommending is correct but it assumes you have a lap joint. which would probably have been the better way to go.

[Linton]

thanks fellas I really appreciate the help, First I tried to solder it GRRRR it is lead solder wont stick, Stripped the lead out of the donor car formed it into a rod why didnt I think of that before.. S##t no luck all on the ground GRRRRR#### cleaned out all the lead back to bare metal, used the oxy and a bronze rod to join it back up. thanks for the great advice boy I was thinking this was going to be easy ;D

Oh peter you were right butt joint not all that pretty but it is solid.

Linton

[Retro Z]

You have to rough up the surface abit, clean and brush on tinning solution, heat solution until it's blackish in colour then wipe with a rag. Then you heat the lead while pressed up against the metal, but heat gently otherwise it'll just slide off onto the floor. If you heat too little, it'll be too hard to spread. also make sure you use a flat object soaked in oil so it won't stick while spreading the lead.

 

You need 70% lead 30% tin bars, don't use the plumbing type leads as they have different properties.

 

Oh and make sure you wear long sleeves and a breathing apparatus as it's Toxic

 

PM me if you need any help.

[Linton]

thanks candy for that info, i will file it away for future reference. it all got too much I bronzed it up nice and solid. just need to prep the doors and finish off bonnet and guards which is mostly just a bit of bog here and there and I might be able to get a base coat of primer on and see how it looks, annnd just found some more rust damn.. when is it ever gonna end  to bloody wet and cold to do anything out in the shed of late.