L28 rods

[NZeder]

Thanks guys, I've already ordered a set of Spool H-Beam rods for $695 

Cool Spool. can't go wrong there either, don't forget you might have to relieve the block a little on one side for ARP/H-Beam clearance.

[Riceburner]

Oooh really, Thanks, I didn't know that. I'll be taking all of it to get bored/balanced,polished. Is that something they can check and do if required?

[NZeder]

My bad you only need to relieve the block if using a LD28 crank as the extra stroke means very very close. However have them check that out either way to be safe

[1600dave]

If you buy Spool, check the rod bolts. I was sent the wrong bolts, didn't find out till 6 months later when I went to use them. To their credit, Spool fixed the error after I sent the dodgy bolts back even though I no longer had the receipt. They were also out by around 2g between lightest and heaviest.

 

The ones below look identical to the Spool rods (without their logo), as do the "pureperformance" ones posted above (even their logo looks to be applied the same way as the Spool ones, etched on somehow). I wouldn't be surprised if they all came out of the same Chinese factory (athough the specs for the ones I posted have a larger allowable variance for weight).

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-L26-L28E-L28ET-260Z-280ZX-H-BEAM-ROD-5-139-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53e4669b84QQitemZ360314215300QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[d3c0y]

Man those things are cheap!! Some one buy a set and test them so i know i should buy them!

[DatPilot]

At that price, I'd guess they are shiite

[d3c0y]

Yeah but at that price if they turn out to be the same as the spool ones that's a bargain and they come with ARP fasteners.

[Riceburner]

It's a bit off topic but when I get the block bored out should the bearing caps be put back in for added rigidity?

[luvemfast]

It's a bit off topic but when I get the block bored out should the bearing caps be put back in for added rigidity?

Should your machinist put it on a flex plate?

[jamo240]

I have a turbocharged L28 in my 240, (400HP at the crank), and it runs standard L24 rods on RB30 pistons. The engine has been around for 10 years, and has never missed a beat. It is rev limited to 7,000, but rarely sees it, being a turbo. I o-ringed the block using 0.060" stainless wire, and use a standard head gasket. The standard rod bolts are pretty stretchy, but are ok if you can get em up to standard torque and they don't go 'soft' (you will feel them if they do...they kinda keep turning and never reach the required torque, and if you pull em out and measure em, you will find they have necked down, as they stretch). THe main cap bolts tend to do the same thing. I find you need about 2 sets to get one good lot. So...ARP studs are a good thing if you're running high cylinder pressures (ie turbocharged), otherwise, provided you don't over-stretch em, they work fine. Otherwise, all the standard bits are fine. Cheers

[luvemfast]

I have a turbocharged L28 in my 240, (400HP at the crank), and it runs standard L24 rods on RB30 pistons. The engine has been around for 10 years, and has never missed a beat. It is rev limited to 7,000, but rarely sees it, being a turbo. I o-ringed the block using 0.060" stainless wire, and use a standard head gasket. The standard rod bolts are pretty stretchy, but are ok if you can get em up to standard torque and they don't go 'soft' (you will feel them if they do...they kinda keep turning and never reach the required torque, and if you pull em out and measure em, you will find they have necked down, as they stretch). THe main cap bolts tend to do the same thing. I find you need about 2 sets to get one good lot. So...ARP studs are a good thing if you're running high cylinder pressures (ie turbocharged), otherwise, provided you don't over-stretch em, they work fine. Otherwise, all the standard bits are fine. Cheers

Ok Jamo, sounds like you ahve lots to offer.

Why not introduce yourself and post some pics 

Simon

[jamo240]

Hi Simon...I will do that (intro and pics), as soon as I figure out how! I must make a correction to my post on the ARP question...I meant HEAD bolts, not rod bolts. The standard rod bolts have been fine in my application. It's the head bolts and main cap bolts that are right on the edge of yielding at factory torque settings. Stretching is good in head and main cap bolts, as that's what keeps them tight, and maintains the clamping pressure. But if they yield too much, they're stuffed, and you gotta throw em away.

[jamo240]

It's a bit off topic but when I get the block bored out should the bearing caps be put back in for added rigidity?

 

It's a good idea to do your block machining with the main caps in place and torqued up, and with a stress plate (to simulate the cylinder head) installed and torqued up as well. This ensures your block is the shape it will be in when final assembled, and therefore your bores will be round after being honed. You would be amazed at how much doing all those bolts up can change the shape of the bores. Crankshaft rebuilders and motor improvements in Melbourne used to have L series stress plates.

[peter mc]

most have rb 30 torq plates that can be used on l28 .with 87mm pistons .if you  are using studs make shore they are installed when honing <head and main>

[Scando]

It is rev limited to 7,000, but rarely sees it, being a turbo.

 

That's the big difference.  I'm also running an L28ET and I've done three full seasons of racing with my car now and the previous owner did quite a few hillclimbs and club days before I bought it.  It started out as 170rwkw when I bought it and now makes 266rwkw and is still running standard rod, main, and head bolts, standard untouched crank, and standard untouched rods.  It's had 3 engine builds but we've recycled those same bits every time out of the original engine, only changing the head, block and pistons.  But I have the rev limiter set at 6,300rpm and I normally change gears well before 6,000rpm which is why I get away with it (or maybe I'm just lucky ).

When you start pulling the revs required to make big power from an n/a engine it's a different ball game.