Dadson Racing: 2010 Revival

[Grandad]

Hi All

 

The removable rear inner guard section that allows access to the fuel filler hose was bent and rusty so I decided to get another and to my surprise it is the only rear body part that fits coupe and 2+2

 

old

 

new

 

off to the platers

 

 

We have had some issues with the voltage regulator in the past so Whittie has taken this opportunity to upgrade the alternator to a late model spec unit with built in regulator so we should be able to remove the ugly black box and fuseable links.

 

 

We're reaching the business end of the rebuild and it's time to focus on some go-fast bits like this one that's ready to go, the cam cover used to be black so I will need to re polish and paint it but that can wait until it's been fitted to the car.

 

 

These motors have a long history of harmonic balance problems, we previously ran a BMW one that worked well without any problems but Whittie decided that this is a perfect opportunity to go with a hi-tech unit.

 

 

Here's a comparison of old and new.

 

 

No point lightening the front end of the motor only so here's what's going on the back.

 

 

That of course requires a trick clutch.

 

 

Whittie assures me it' not a full blown button clutch but close to it.

 

 

Installation is booked for the week after next so looks like things are moving again.

 

Cheers

dad

[benny]

You do get rid of the blackbox(external reg) but fusible links still stay. You can however change the links for a nicer maxifuse style block.

[Grandad]

Hi benny

 

Can you guide us on where to find a maxifuse block, do you have some pics by any chance?

 

Cheers

Dad

[benny]

Hi benny

 

Can you guide us on where to find a maxifuse block, do you have some pics by any chance?

 

Cheers

Dad

 

 

Sure thing. I used this exact one-

 

 

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=573&CategoryID=13

 

 

What i did was run one new single wire to back of alternator into the main input then connected the existing fusible links into the outputs. Obviously you need to match the fuse rating with the current fusible link ratings.

 

 

Using this power distribution block gives you 4 outputs and the best thing is its not corroded and old so wont give you any headaches.

 

 

Best place to buy is ebay usa -

 

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=sdh821&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.Xsh821&_nkw=shd821&_sacat=0

 

 

I bought the fuses from JBHIFI (Car Audio Dept) but you can buy them online too. They take "Midi" fuses not "Maxi".

 

 

On the car i was working with it had the big black metal shield (mounted infront of the master) holding a variety of components. I moved some stuff around and mounted it under there.

 

 

PM me if you need any further help.

[Grandad]

Thanks benny that's a big help.

 

Cheers

Dad

[260DET]

Bathurst Easter 2014?

[Grandad]

Bathurst Easter 2014?

 

Unfortunately I don't think so, Whittie has a lot on his plate early next year and I'm pushing for the Philip Island Historics in March.

 

Cheers

Dad

[Riceburner]

Forgive me if it's already been posted but what are the specs on the new engine?

[Grandad]

Hi All

 

I get a bit frustrated when I have to do jobs twice but if it means the job ends up being done right then I guess it's worthwhile.

 

Recently we sent the car off to have brake lines made and because the master cylinder set up is different and the old lines were pretty stuffed we simply had the mounting brackets in place to show where the lines should run, anyway the guy decided we must be wrong and did it his way with the result that the lines on the front rails looked very pretty and uniformly ran on the edge of the rail which I admit looks good but it puts the passenger side line far too close to our tuned length extractors and increases the risk of heat build up and the possibility of boiling the fluid particularly during race track competition in hot conditions so I had to drain the system, remove the incorrect line which was remade and reinstall it, I now just need to refill the system and bleed it then we're done.

 

As it was.

 

As it is now.

 

Cheers

Dad

[Grandad]

Forgive me if it's already been posted but what are the specs on the new engine?

 

Hi Gareth

 

It's not particularly radical but seems to work well it's a L28 with 20thou over size bore with flat top pistons it has a hi comp P20 head which has larger valves and has been ported I don't remember the cam grind but it's not radical it has triple 45mm webers and hi flow tuned extractors the inlet and exhaust manifolds have been port matched, I expect the new harmonic balancer and light flywheel to make a difference, it also has MSD digital ignition which made a significant difference to performance and drive-ability when it was fitted.

 

Previously it was making ~ 200 rwhp so I expect it will be somewhere round that again.

 

Cheers

Dad

[Whittie]

Nissan L28

Triple 45mm Weber Carburetors

60 thou over bore

Polished, Ported and Port Matched Intake and Exhaust

Oversized Valves

F54 Block shaved below piston height

P90 Head shaved 2mm

Custom grind mild race Cam

Lightened and balanced bottom end

MSD Digital series 6 ignition

MSD 6 blaster coil

9mm Ignition Leads

ATI Racing fluid Harmonic Balancer

Pointless distributor

Crow Cams double valve springs

Flat top pistons

Custom 2 1/2" Mandrel exhaust

Custom 6-2-1 extractors

PWR Aluminium Radiator

 

178HP on hub dyno

 

That's what my spec sheet says, but it could be out of date

[Whittie]

off the top of my head, add:

 

all arp (?? can't remember brand name) studs

ultra light weight flywheel (arizona zed car, 12 LBS. )

6-puck clutch (arizona zed car)

more valve work

more head work

l28 turbo oil pump

baffled sump (arizona zed car)

 

I think that's it. It's not really a race motor and I would expect about 200rwhp when it's going again

[Grandad]

Hi All

 

Well I really feel like I've had a big win and am enjoying a celebratory red as I write so you can expect some typos

 

You know Whittie decided to go with a twin master cylinder brake system with a bias adjuster, well once fitted we realized we were left with a hole in the firewall and the manufacturer doesn't have a fix for it which is a major piss off.

 

Here's the problem

 

 

I've been thinking about this one for some time now my thinking was to adapt a gear lever boot, they used to be available everywhere but no one stocks them any more (yeah I know I'm showing my age) not being prepared to give up on the idea, I went to a shop that previously helped us out when we had to replace a split steering rack boot (you'd think the penny would have dropped with that but sadly not) at the counter I explained my problem and asked if they had a gear lever boot that might suit, the answer was no but I was led to their stock of miscellaneous  steering rack boots (a touch of Deja Vu here) so as I went through the box of boots the Datsun Gods must have smiled on me because I found one that looked like it might do the job with a matching rack end piece that I thought I might be able to adapt, so $15.00 later I was on my way jumping in the air clicking my heals.

 

 

When I got home to my surprise I found that the boot was an almost perfect fit with the pedal box.

 

If you're wondering what the switch on the clutch pedal is, it's a secondary rev limiter on the MSD ignition effectively giving us launch control

 

 

For reasons known only to Datsun the hole in the pedal box is elliptical so wanting to create a complete seal from fumes and noise I fashioned some rubber I had bought previously as a possible fix.

 

 

Here it is ready to go, once fitted the boot will be held in place but I used glue initially to ensure it doesn't move during installation.

 

 

The boot is a tight fit in the pedal box and is in constant contact with it on one side so I gave it a liberal coating of rubber grease.

 

 

The end result good to go, I should sell the idea to the master cylinder manufacturer.

 

 

Don't go there's more, I'm on a roll!!!

 

We had decided to blank off the air vents that deliver air to the foot well because being a UK delivered car they do not have an exclusive air supply system from the front of the car but compete with the fan forced heater system for air at the bottom of the windscreen, we have found them to be rather ineffective so blanked them off using approx 1mm plastic sheet.

 

When working on the pedal box I noticed that even though sealed with silicon the blanking material had warped and failed so I removed it and replaced with 0.5mm aluminium sheet which we plan to use as a heat shield for the exhaust so using my tin snips and the tail light resin I think I've fixed the problem and removal of the air vent knob has provided the perfect location for the brake bias adjuster.

 

 

With the broken steering column mounting bolt drilled out, it's time for some steering.

 

How's this for a cheat?

I've been fitting new and shorter bolts everywhere but on the steering universal I couldn't remove the bolts and new shiny nuts on old crappy bolts just didn't cut it, so here's what I did, oh if you're thinking the rubber looks new it's just shoe polish, works a treat on tyres too.

 

 

Ahh we have steering.

 

 

Tuss is expecting the car next week to fit the engine so hopefully we're not far off finished now.

 

I'm off for another red

 

Cheers

Dad

[MaygZ]

Great job.  These moments of ingenuity coupled with your fastidiousness are producing a truly remarkable automobile.  Should I raise the discussion again re: this car is too good to race??

 

MaygZ

[Grandad]

Hi MaygZ

 

Thanks for your comments, I'm thinking you're enjoying following this re-build as much as we're enjoying doing it, with Whittie's recent engagement and likely career move to the US next year the Dadson competition future is uncertain this re-build could possibly go down as our last Father/Son collaboration so for my part I intend it will be the best it possibly can be.

 

I respect your comment on it being too good to race and accept it as a compliment but if these cars weren't too good to race when new why should they be too good to race when restored to new condition.

 

I don't consider we're breaking new ground with our project but rather joining a small dedicated group of enthusiasts who want to compete with their cars in the best possible condition regarding both engineering and presentation.

 

It will be a fantastic result to end up with the best looking, best engineered and fastest non stroked N/A competition Zed when it's finished, time of course will tell and even if we don't achieve any of those goals I'm sure at the very least we have helped raise the bar just a little and maybe introduce others doing re-builds to the attention to detail that ultimately makes the difference between the end result being a good car or a great one.

 

Cheers

Dad

[MaygZ]

I respect your comment on it being too good to race and accept it as a compliment ......

 

A compliment it was.

 

I am enjoying watch the rebirth of this car and thank you for the time you are putting into this thread.

 

MaygZ

[Grandad]

Hi All

 

The engine fit has been pushed back a week which is good, maybe it will have stopped raining here by then.

 

I decided to fit out the doors and started with the window support brackets they are the 2+2 ones I cut down and had plated, they looked great when they came back from the platers but that's probably six months ago now so I've just had a stark reminder that not only is this car is 36 years old but once rust takes hold it doesn't let go easily, with the benefit of hindsight it's just as well I didn't fit the doors our as soon as the parts were plated because these brackets now have another date with acid.

 

 

 

With doors off the agenda for a while I decided to do the final job under the back of the car and fit the electric fuel pump and primary filter so to be sure of exactly where tings should go I checked the pics Whittie took when the car was being dismantled.

 

I have previously said what a pleasure it is working underneath this car, here's why.

 

This is the fuel over flow hose that sits behind the removable inner guard as it was (this is typical of the entire car).

 

As it is now.

 

Cheers

Dad

[Vindicare]

Love the car, are you guys gonna make it to zday this year? All going to plan mine will be there, not as good looking as yours, but just as much money spent, only on drive train I thought you guys were gonna trailer it last year, super eager to see this in the flesh

[Whittie]

What's the date of the Z Day?

 

I would be surprised if this car was finished this year. If it is, then the target would be motorvation in Jan.

 

I struggle to work out how you spent that much money on drive-train gear! How much is a full build Rebello 3.2 race engine these days?

[Vindicare]

Yeah, expensive, but it's built for more then I'll run straight up. In the end quality parts tend to add up quick. If I break something I've upgraded I'll be a little annoyed. This is an old post of mine, it's cost me a decent amount more now

 

$700 L28 w/ P90

$850 Forged pistons

$700 Spool Rods

$200? arp gear

$500 AZC sump

$700 BHJ damper

$1200 Trust exhaust manifold

$350 HPC coating for said manifold

$1900 GT35 v-band .63 HPC coated

$200 water oil line kit

$1400 Stainless 3" Exhaust 2 mufflers

$1000 Lonewolf custom intake HPC coated

$700 Autronic 500r & coils

$1500? Autronic SMC ecu

$700 Rice racing water injection kit

$400 Inter-cooler

$400 PWR BOV

$450 TIAL 44mm Waste-gate

$400 Ali radiator

$1400 Jim berry Super monty clutch

$200? 240mm flywheel

$4000 RB25 gbox, adaptor, tail shaft, labour for conversion

$1200 R200 LSD

$1400 Datrat CV conversion

$5000 Labour on engine , bits and bobs, porting, customer  psychological support

 

And still spending.... depressing, not sure I want to add that all up, that doesn't count the money I've spend on parts I wasn't entirely happy with. Still more to make the driveline strong enough for the new engine. I'm also sure I've forgotten things.

Once engine is back, I imagine there will be $3000 in more parts to install, then probably $2000 for tuning and changing whatever breaks.

 

Also have

 

$2000 HSD coilovers

$2400 AZC 4pot brakes

$700ish new bushings odds and sods

 

 

One I cant wait to get is the new wheels, hopefully happens soon, 11" wide hopefully will fit with BAMF flares

Modifying any engine costs money guys, good parts cost big money, Good help costs big money. I chose to stick with the L series because I dont think anything else looks as good in the engine bay.

 

 

FYI NOT A HIGH COST ENGINE, JUST GOOD PARTS, BY NO MEANS THE BEST. If peter was building his l34 kits earlier, I would have gone straight to one of those, .5L extra displacement would have made me much happier.

[Grandad]

Hi All

 

With the engine going in next week I've been checking the bolt on bits and turned my attention to the tuned length extractors we had custom made a few years ago, when new we had them ceramic coated inside and out and when first fitted they had a chrome look about them but with use and heat cycling they have dulled significantly and some surface rust has appeared so it's time to smarten them up with heat proof paint.

 

These are such a work of art I should enter them in  Sculpture By The Sea            http://www.sculpturebythesea.com/image-gallery/cottesloe.aspx?Year=2013&Location=Outdoor

 

 

Close inspection shows something has been touching I'm thinking it's the alternator so I will keep an eye on that in future.

 

 

Good to go.

 

Cheers

Dad

[Whittie]

Alternator goes on the other side of the engine...............

[Grandad]

Hi Whittie

 

I thought someone would take the bait,

 

I suspect it's fouling on is the engine mount under extreme operating conditions which actually supports your suggestion to replace the mounts even though they appear to be in serviceable condition.

 

If new mounts don't solve the problem we may need to consider fabricating an engine torque brace.

 

Cheers

Dad

[Grandad]

Uh-oh...

 

Meet Banjo and Kippa

 

 

 

I thought His and Hers horses smacked of commitment.

 

Whittie recently announced his engagement to his long time girl friend and last Saturday night we attended his engagement party but to our surprise and delight so to did a Marriage Celebrant and before our eyes the deed was done......Congratulations to the new Mr and Mrs Whittie.

 

Does this mean we'll soon be seeing His and Hers Zeds???  a 2+2 maybe???

 

Well done Whittie

 

Cheers

Proud Dad

 

[Grandad]

Hi All

 

The final job under the car was to mount the fuel pump and filter which I did without much trouble but when I tried to fit fuel hoses I realised one of the rubber mounts had broken so out it came.

 

 

The mounts are really tiny measuring about 15mm in length.

 

 

I did the rounds of parts supplier with no luck and finally did what I should have done first and searched to the internet, I eventually found something that would just about do the job from China (doesn't everything come from China) then I chanced across replacement mounts for MSD ignition from the US which are the exact size so having a trade a/c with the local MSD supplier I called them and yes they had them in stock and the trade price was the same as direct from the US so that was a no brainer.

 

The pump we use is particularly noisy so I've added a little extra isolation but with all the interior sound proofing gone from the car I doubt we'll notice the difference.

 

 

With that done it was simply a matter of connecting fuel hoses, I do need to tidy the wiring up a bit.

 

 

From there it was time to get the car down off the jack stands, I had it up so high it took three steps each end to get it down, by now it was getting dark so a pic of it back on wheels will have to wait until tomorrow when the car goes to Tuss, next time you see a pic from this angle the hole will be filled.

 

 

Cheers

Still Proud Dad