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240z to 280zx Alternator Upgrade IR VR


gav240z

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Hi everyone, I know a guy Arne from classiczcars.com is selling a simple plug that allows you to adapt the 280zx 60amp alternator to a 240z. This is a good upgrade because it has a higher ampage output but also alows the removal of the voltage regulator VR since it's an internal regulator IR.

 

The other advantages are you can simply replace the alternator with an original one for shows if you are running in concourse categories.

 

You can find more details here: http://home.comcast.net/~1971.240z/alt-adapt.html

 

There is a slight discount for 10 or more orders so I am wondering how many others may be interested in such a purchase. :wink:

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That's great so 7 or more to go. C'mon guys this is a great upgrade, it's simple, easily reversible and it's great for those running aftermarket headlights, stereo's & electronic ignition.

 

The only expensive part is rebuilding a ZX alternator.

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I did a similiar conversion on my 1600.

I'm not sure if it is the same, but from memory the conversion involved running a wire across two of the plugs that went into the reg and that was it. I'll see if I can find some more info on it.

It did solve the issue of the lights dimming and brightening on engine revs.

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It's not as simple as running a wire jumper (although you can, but be prepared to have your battery run flat every day).

 

The mod is to replace the connecting wire that you speak of with a diode.

 

Dick Smith sells a plug that mates with the zed connector, 25c buys you the diode, all up cost around one buck.

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I've been running a Subaru 60A alternator with built-in IC reg for 15+ years on the Z without a problem. No special plugs or diodes.

 

Another alternative is to get hold of an Ingrams IC regulator to replace the mechanical type. Not sure if they make them any more, but was the most common solution for all Datsuns with a mech reg.

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Dick Smith sells a plug that mates with the zed connector, 25c buys you the diode, all up cost around one buck.

 

Let me look into this before we place the order. I will visit Dick Smith's next week. Should not be too hard to work out the correct rating for the diode.

 

Warren

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I researched Classic Z Cars on what they actually did. The diode costs all of 29cents and worst case the connector is available from Super Cheap Auto's for $10 in a bubble pack. Dick Smith do not sell the connector but J Car supposedly does but I have not had time to go there yet.

 

I will make one and see how neat it can be packaged. If it works out OK I am happy to make them for others.

 

Warren

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  • 3 weeks later...

I now have the parts to make one and they come to the grand total of $8. (Supercheap Auto for the connector and Dick Smith for the diode)

 

I will put it together over the weekend, the only issue will be making the back of it look OK. Some experimentation required.

 

Does anyone actually need one now, or was it just nice to have for later when you get around to swapping the alternator? Which is my situation.

 

Warren

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Hi Warren, I am interested in this modification. My ZX IR Alternator is at a mechanic but I am hopefully picking it up soon. I plan to do this modification after I recondition the ZX alternator, so it's a planned future upgrade but the current alternator works fine and I haven't been driving the Z much of late so I haven't been in too much of a hurry.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello

 

Sorry for the delay but been trying to catch up since trip to Japan.

 

I put it together and the hardest part is covering the rear of the plug and making it look acceptable. I have sealed it with a butyl putty and covered it with race tape. This is functional but a better solution is needed to make it look more professional. If anyone has any ideas.

 

Wedgey - you can have the prototype for $10

 

Warren

post-78-144023473472_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 years later...

I couldn't find a better spot for this so here goes.

 

In my 76 260Z 2+2 when i performed this upgrade (280zx alternator in, voltage reg out), I found that the alternator was not charging well until it got to at least 2000 RPM.

 

when I tried to measure the voltage on the blue wire (switched 12V power via the warning light) I found it was bouncing between 12 and 0 volts.

 

Its only now that I'm repairing the water fuel and oil gauge voltage regulators that I realise the blue wire is fed power from the oil gauge voltage regulator and only receiving an average of 5 Volts (5 volts according to the info i found on the net).

 

this results exciter circuit in the alternator not functioning correctly as its needs 12 Volts. When I manually apply 12 volts the alternator functions as it should.

 

I believe the answer is to take a wire from (join to) the Black with white ignition wire that powers the coil and old engine voltage regulator when the ignition is in the on position and combin it with the blue warning light wire and connect to the L terminal on the alternator ( I hope to confirm this on the weekend).

 

............

: ------- :  "S"

:.... | ....:

    : | :

    : | : "L"

    :...:

 

I searched hi and low but there was no mention of this in any of the conversions I read. I hope this saves someone from a trip to the auto elec  :) :) :)

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