zed240au Posted December 23, 2010 Posted December 23, 2010 thanks for that info on soleniod tim will be checking mine Since i got dyno tune clutch has not felt right and shifting into reverse has been tough job I blamed hurst shifter so i replaced with B & M shifter very happy with feel of B&M much nicer feel than hurst Even replaced my clutch master cylinder again clutch feels lot better with 7/8 master but reverse is still a pain job for tomorrow check soleniod power got car on hoist making new extractors anyway thanks mick Quote
RB30X Posted December 23, 2010 Author Posted December 23, 2010 No worries mate. The plug for the solenoid has two wires, a yellow one and a pink with blue stripe. The yellow one goes to the PCM to give a variable earth signal according to vehicle speed and the pink and blue wire should get 12V with ignition. Let me know if you need anymore info. Quote
RB30X Posted December 26, 2010 Author Posted December 26, 2010 I jacked the rear up yesterday to take the rear cover off the diff but got a bit de-motivated when I saw what a drama that job was. Instead I pulled one of my rear struts out to confirm they are shagged. I found out the are KYB 365012's. I think there may be a washer or two in the base as a spacer but they are pretty much the same length as the factory rear tube. The springs that were on it are 250lb which apparently are around 4.5kgs and the fronts are only 225lb or 4kgs. These are probably a bit soft for any track work but I do have 5kg and 6kg springs from the otomoto sleeve kit which I guess I could swap in as a trial. The rear springs are a taller one piece spring but are the same length as the otomoto kit with the follower spring included. Has anyone used these KYB struts before. I guess I will try and track down some more exactly the same as these ones but I'm not sure how much they go for or anything. Hopefully whoever originally installed the coil overs has matched the right shock with the springs etc, and at least left some room for stiffer springs. I don't know much about matching springs and shocks etc. Quote
RB30X Posted December 26, 2010 Author Posted December 26, 2010 Just talking to the guys at autobahn while trying to track down kyb's on a public holiday and they have a Monroe alternative for $150 a pair. Anyone running Monroe gas inserts? Quote
Mr240z Posted December 27, 2010 Posted December 27, 2010 I'm pretty sure Monroe don't make gas inserts for Zeds, went down that track ages ago.. Quote
RB30X Posted December 27, 2010 Author Posted December 27, 2010 Well apparently the 365012 is actually a 240K front strut (on their list), and the monroe is the equivalent of that strut so I guess technically they aren't Zed struts but still fit? OK, I've pulled my foot from my mouth and wiped the egg from my face. That will be the last time I trust one of the children working at Autobarn. Those struts are different in every single way except that they both expand outwards. So this brings me back to square one. The exact KYB replacements are $270 for a pair off ebay or $350 each ordered in through Super cheap. Unless I can find an alternative. Quote
RB30X Posted December 27, 2010 Author Posted December 27, 2010 I finally got the rear cover off the diff for an inspection. Yes, I have an LSD, check, what type? I don't know. The gears are 3.9's as expected. My new fuel rails arrived in the mail for christmas also. And before you ask, yes they do make them for men. Quote
RB30X Posted January 11, 2011 Author Posted January 11, 2011 I've removed the anodizing from the fuel rails and given the aluminium a polish so it suits the engine bay a bit better. Today I was finally able to get the RH header off in order to heat wrap it. The radiant heat coming through from the engine bay is not pleasant and really ruins the fun when driving. After taking my wife for a drive the other night she said her side was fine but she could really feel the heat coming from my side, which would make sense as the LH headers have been wrapped already. Last time I tried to get the exhaust off this side I could not get the collector flange past the bell housing bump for the starter motor, but this time I raised the engine slightly off its mounts and dropped the middle section of the exhaust which gave me more room and the starter motor got to remain in position. The headers have been wrapped and given a run in warm up in position, but no driving yet. Quote
Riceburner Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 Well apparently the 365012 is actually a 240K front strut (on their list), and the monroe is the equivalent of that strut so I guess technically they aren't Zed struts but still fit? OK, I've pulled my foot from my mouth and wiped the egg from my face. That will be the last time I trust one of the children working at Autobarn. Those struts are different in every single way except that they both expand outwards. So this brings me back to square one. The exact KYB replacements are $270 for a pair off ebay or $350 each ordered in through Super cheap. Unless I can find an alternative. Merry Christmas from Autobarn I actually got some monroe inserts many moons ago.....When I first purchased the car, they were junk, a slinky would have more bump/rebound resistance I've also run KYB GR2's with king springs and found them to be great. What paint did you use on the headers? Quote
RB30X Posted January 12, 2011 Author Posted January 12, 2011 I painted the headers with an etch primer and then black heat proof paint. This was good, as it remained a little sticky to help hold onto the wrap as I installed it. Giving it a run up to operating temp should help cure the paint also. I'm waiting on the floods to give in a bit so I can order some replacement KYB's off ebay. Quote
peter mc Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 man i love this car it must be fun to drive makes me wont one Quote
RB30X Posted January 12, 2011 Author Posted January 12, 2011 You're quite welcome to come up and take it for a drive Peter. There so much torque its like a turbo car running moderate boost, without the lag. I took a friend for a drive the day on a long straight bit of road just near my house (literally 10 meters) and I just went through the gears to get to speed and let it warm up and he was like 'damn that's quick' then I explained I hadn't even given it any yet I'm hoping to get some more video of it soon. Actually I'm interested to hear your thoughts on other options to reduce under bonnet temps? I went on a cruise recently and there were a heap of muscle car guys there checking out the Zed, and in the past (when shoe-horning big motors into little cars) they have hole-sawed or cut out sections of the top of the fire wall to let air from the bonnet area into the space where the wiper motor sits so the hot air gets sucked out through the existing vents below the windscreen. I am unsure if this mod is illegal or not due to holes in the firewall, but I'm sure its effective. Same as vents in the inspection covers I suppose. I don't think that bonnet scoop is helping while driving either, maybe to let the heat out when you are stopped though. Quote
peter mc Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 yer the ls1 inlet temp has to be kept cool or the tune relay suffers the computer rips the timing out real fast kills the hp .force some air on it is the key but how? maybe the 2 holes ether side of the radiator can be funneled over the top. or maybe make Shields over the top over the exhaust that stop heat coming up? will be mad fun whatever you do keep up the good work Quote
PZG302 Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 Tim, Richard (260det), should be able to help you out in getting rid of the under bonnet hot air. His VG powered S130 makes very good use of bonnet vents to get rid of hot air under the bonnet with the added bonus of decreasing drag over the bonnet. Quote
peter mc Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 yer the bonnet vents would be good but the bonnet pins may be a problem in there position ,maybe a rethink on there position?nar it looks good the way it is ... Quote
Johnboy Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 Hi Tim, Great build I've been keeping an eye on for a while now and it's looking great. The springs that were on it are 250lb which apparently are around 4.5kgs and the fronts are only 225lb or 4kgs. These are probably a bit soft for any track work but I do have 5kg and 6kg springs from the otomoto sleeve kit which I guess I could swap in as a trial. The rear springs are a taller one piece spring but are the same length as the otomoto kit with the follower spring included. As for spring choice, I also purchased the same coilover kit and have had them installed in the rear by Dazzed but he found if you use the springs supplied with the kit you will loose some suspension travel as the keeper spring is very soft. (I can compressed completely by hand) (Added) So when the cars weight is on the springs the keeper spring is fully compressed giving less spring travel. And unless you wind the coilovers up to the top taking up the space from keeper spring, you will only have a small amount of shock travel. (added) The Picture shows (as it was explained to me (if my memory is correct)) that you will loose a couple of inches of spring travel on the black springs compared with the yellow ones on the left. Hope this is of sum use. Keep up the inspiring work. Johnboy (Inexperienced suspension non-expert) Quote
zed240au Posted January 13, 2011 Posted January 13, 2011 under bonnet temps easy to fix tim just put bug catcher on your ls1 like i did gets cold air into motor lets hot air out of the hole at same time mick Quote
RB30X Posted January 13, 2011 Author Posted January 13, 2011 It's not the air going into motor I'm worried about, it's the heat from the exhaust. What have you done with yours? Quote
zed240au Posted January 13, 2011 Posted January 13, 2011 havent done anything special with mine But i do believe the hole around bug catcher lets hot air out certianly reduce running temp with old nissan V8 I do have good thick underlay on firewall and floor under Industrial grade carpet which helps too Just posted pics of new extractors ive made in "mighty mick " they may cause me issues but cross that bridge when i get there Did get thermo fan set to come on at 95 c when i got tune do which will help normal running temps Quote
Riceburner Posted January 13, 2011 Posted January 13, 2011 Just a short one. Woohoo! Now for some circle work please Quote
zrevival Posted January 13, 2011 Posted January 13, 2011 There appears to be a few LS1 projects turning up these days - i found a really well engineered LS2 project in Auckland a couple of days. As a consequence, unfortunatly i had real problems trying not to drool on it, and have had numerous sleepless nights rethinking my current Z project Question - is there an LS1/LS2 install kit available for this in Australia? or is this all custom fab'd?? Quote
RB30X Posted January 13, 2011 Author Posted January 13, 2011 All custom, although there are kits from the US which are available but the sumps are different over there. Quote
PeterAllen Posted January 13, 2011 Posted January 13, 2011 As Tim states - There is only one LSx engine mount supplier http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm It cost a bit but money well spent in my opinion. Only thing, don't bother with the gearbox mount, make your own. The sump is off the LS2 engine (see difference between 5.7ltr and 6.0ltr sumps). There is a wealth of information on HydridZ. If you haven't got a budget of at least $10k don't even start. Tim - looks like tyres will be your biggest running cost! Quote
NZeder Posted January 13, 2011 Posted January 13, 2011 Love the work Tim - just had to go back to the beginning and start this thread over again Anyway one question I see you had a custom allow tank made - but why did you know have the swirl pot/surge tank build in to it? The only answer I can come up with you wanted to run external pumps from a maintenance stand point. i.e. you don't have to drop the tank to replace the pumps/pre filters + with that sound you will not hear the pumps anyway Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.