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Posted

here's the thing i can put an engine back together but wouldnt know how to customise or rebuild with other parts. i have bought 3 books from fishpond so far about z cars:

 

how to restore nissan/datsun z cars

how to rebuild nissan/datsun OHC

how to customise nissan/datsun OHC

 

really good books, helped me alot but the only thing i still dont really understand is the compression ratio, what is safe and what is not?

 

i have been using a program which lets me pick the L sreies engine parts and works out the compression ratio, deck height, stroke/bore etc... but i still dont really get what will wok and what kind of adjustments/modifications i need to do rectify the problem.

 

here's some pics of the program. program came from Zcarclub.com.au

 

in this pic i know its gonna blow something

 

somethinggonnablow.jpg

 

 

this pic, could it be safe and reliable? the compression still seems abit high from what ive seen others done.

 

enginenotblowing.jpg

p.s i might have made a couple of engrish mistakes in this post

Posted

to my understanding (which is limited)  14.5:1 compression ratio is a monster of compression

 

someone correct me if im wrong but dont most solid cars on NA run 10:1 or 11:1 on pump fuel? with turbo cars running somewhere between 8:1 and 10:1....

 

i think im right, im often not tho

Posted

Yeah I think you're right, 11 is about the max on pump fuel. Also with those combos you have a deck is 4.73, doesn't that mean the piston is 4mm above block! With that combo you need a piston with a lower pin height like a ka24.

Posted

Can someone add the link to the Engine set up program..

 

I used the one on ozdat cars, Just wont to have a look at a few set up's.

Posted

Yeah, think thats ok , now you could just fly cut the pistons to get the deck height right. KA24's are a bigger bore piston so block would need to be bored out. I no expert its just what i remember from reading various things over the years. Try any of the old stroker posts (3.1L or 2.9L)

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Posted

20:1 ratio is great for a diesel engine, 14:1 is good if you are running strictly Avgas, but for our crappy pump fuel, anything around 9.5-11:1 should be ok with premium.

Posted

Yeah, think thats ok , now you could just fly cut the pistons to get the deck height right. KA24's are a bigger bore piston so block would need to be bored out. I no expert its just what i remember from reading various things over the years. Try any of the old stroker posts (3.1L or 2.9L)

 

cheers for that, im trying to modify the l28 without boring the block itself so again here's another setup. man u guys must be thinking what an idiot i am :P

 

L28flycut.jpg

Posted

The problem with that program is that I think it will let you build engines in theory, that are impossible to build in real life. Like that last one you posted. I'm pretty sure you cant use L28 con rods with the LD28 crank

Posted

Yeah you need to use the longer conrods of the l24 when you use an LD28 crank because of the longer stroke. The reason for this I'm told is that if you use the shorter L28 conrods you'll pull the piston down too far out of the piston bore. I'm not sure if it hits anything or if it just causes too much slap because there is too much of the piston below the bore.

Posted

The old Syd. Zed club 'L Engine Builder' has many flaws.

The one on 'Ozdat' is much more accurate, but not as user friendly.

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