OZ001 Posted December 17, 2009 Posted December 17, 2009 here's the thing i can put an engine back together but wouldnt know how to customise or rebuild with other parts. i have bought 3 books from fishpond so far about z cars: how to restore nissan/datsun z cars how to rebuild nissan/datsun OHC how to customise nissan/datsun OHC really good books, helped me alot but the only thing i still dont really understand is the compression ratio, what is safe and what is not? i have been using a program which lets me pick the L sreies engine parts and works out the compression ratio, deck height, stroke/bore etc... but i still dont really get what will wok and what kind of adjustments/modifications i need to do rectify the problem. here's some pics of the program. program came from Zcarclub.com.au in this pic i know its gonna blow something this pic, could it be safe and reliable? the compression still seems abit high from what ive seen others done. p.s i might have made a couple of engrish mistakes in this post Quote
herrods Posted December 17, 2009 Posted December 17, 2009 to my understanding (which is limited) 14.5:1 compression ratio is a monster of compression someone correct me if im wrong but dont most solid cars on NA run 10:1 or 11:1 on pump fuel? with turbo cars running somewhere between 8:1 and 10:1.... i think im right, im often not tho Quote
Riceburner Posted December 17, 2009 Posted December 17, 2009 Yeah I think you're right, 11 is about the max on pump fuel. Also with those combos you have a deck is 4.73, doesn't that mean the piston is 4mm above block! With that combo you need a piston with a lower pin height like a ka24. Quote
luvemfast Posted December 17, 2009 Posted December 17, 2009 Don't think you want to run the L24 conrod with an LD28 crank. Quote
Mr240z Posted December 17, 2009 Posted December 17, 2009 Can someone add the link to the Engine set up program.. I used the one on ozdat cars, Just wont to have a look at a few set up's. Quote
Sirpent Posted December 17, 2009 Posted December 17, 2009 http://74.125.153.132/search?q=cache:prbZXhi67asJ:www.msu.edu/~levesqu6/linkindex.htm+nissan+l6+engine+builder&cd=3&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=au This is the link to the page where you can download the program Quote
Riceburner Posted December 17, 2009 Posted December 17, 2009 Yeah, think thats ok , now you could just fly cut the pistons to get the deck height right. KA24's are a bigger bore piston so block would need to be bored out. I no expert its just what i remember from reading various things over the years. Try any of the old stroker posts (3.1L or 2.9L) Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted December 17, 2009 Moderators Posted December 17, 2009 20:1 ratio is great for a diesel engine, 14:1 is good if you are running strictly Avgas, but for our crappy pump fuel, anything around 9.5-11:1 should be ok with premium. Quote
OZ001 Posted December 17, 2009 Author Posted December 17, 2009 Yeah, think thats ok , now you could just fly cut the pistons to get the deck height right. KA24's are a bigger bore piston so block would need to be bored out. I no expert its just what i remember from reading various things over the years. Try any of the old stroker posts (3.1L or 2.9L) cheers for that, im trying to modify the l28 without boring the block itself so again here's another setup. man u guys must be thinking what an idiot i am Quote
luvemfast Posted December 18, 2009 Posted December 18, 2009 man u guys must be thinking what an idiot i am Just remember, there are no stupid questions....................just stupid people Quote
Mr Camouflage Posted December 18, 2009 Posted December 18, 2009 The problem with that program is that I think it will let you build engines in theory, that are impossible to build in real life. Like that last one you posted. I'm pretty sure you cant use L28 con rods with the LD28 crank Quote
hunterzed Posted December 18, 2009 Posted December 18, 2009 Yeah you need to use the longer conrods of the l24 when you use an LD28 crank because of the longer stroke. The reason for this I'm told is that if you use the shorter L28 conrods you'll pull the piston down too far out of the piston bore. I'm not sure if it hits anything or if it just causes too much slap because there is too much of the piston below the bore. Quote
C.A.R. Posted December 18, 2009 Posted December 18, 2009 The old Syd. Zed club 'L Engine Builder' has many flaws. The one on 'Ozdat' is much more accurate, but not as user friendly. Quote
Mr Camouflage Posted December 19, 2009 Posted December 19, 2009 The ozdat one : http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ I believe Dave is working on an updated version in his spare time. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.