paint removal

[FLEXZED]

hey guys

could anyone give me some info on how they have found the best way to strip there paint and bog from the zeds

 

also i am looking at maybe sand/bead blasting the shell and certain panels does any know a service in sydney ?

 

thanks in advance

 

Loui

[Mr240z]

Loui ask Peter he know's someone that does sodablasting at a good rate..

 

Dryice blasting also looks the go...Type it into youtube.

 

just had alook he doing a Zed as-well...Cool

 

[Sirpent]

hey guys

could anyone give me some info on how they have found the best way to strip there paint and bog from the zeds

 

also i am looking at maybe sand/bead blasting the shell and certain panels does any know a service in sydney ?

 

thanks in advance

 

Loui

 

hey Loui, check out my Zed, I had it done arond 4-6 weeks ago, very happy with the rsult.

 

By the way where are you at with her? what happened with the roof?

[FLEXZED]

hey john

 

had a look at your paint striupping and i must say it looks good

 

i would like to see if i can find someone that does a mobile ervice in sydney

 

been busy over the last 2 weeks, so my motor and box will be removed next w/e (hopefully someone will buy it

 

 

Loui

[zzzzed]

soda /sand blasting is the most affective, but personally i would rather spend the money in other areas.

yeh I know it is hard and tedious but with a combination of a air sander paint stripper and a bit of elbow grease i can strip a car in a day.

if you don't have time or or patience go the sand blasting though

[FLEXZED]

hey zzzzed

 

thanks for the comment, could you suggest what grid paper/sanding pad etc and type of paint stripper you use

 

thanks

 

 

[Sirpent]

hey zzzzed

 

thanks for the comment, could you suggest what grid paper/sanding pad etc and type of paint stripper you use

 

thanks

 

Loui

 

Im about to write up a long response to this topic, so hang in there for a few minutes while I write this.

[zzzzed]

36 grit strips it off pretty fast

but  before you apply under coat go over it again with 120 or 180 grit

 

any stripper will do It can get a bit messy though.  especially on acrylic paint.

With acrylic it melts it instead of making it lift and bubble which makes clean up harder   

 

[Sirpent]

Ok, there is no right nor wrong as to how you decide to strip a vehicle, so the following is based on the better part of having spent working and running panel shops over 15 years.

 

Traditional stripping - Chemical.

 

OK, paint stripping using a chemical based remover, if you have never attempted this be warned, you can cause more of a mess through simply going ballistic spreading the stuff to quickly which will mean spending 4 times more time needed to do the job rather than having done it slowly and methodically the first time.

 

Problem with paint strippers is that you cant tell how the paint you are attacking will react, multiple coats on top of the original factory finish means more material for the active components to work through, and the biggest problem here is that as soon as you apply this demon crap, which I may add loves burning skin and eye tissue if you flick a brush or scraper the wrong way, is that it starts to dry out very quickly from its original a jell like state.

 

To do the job properly, the following should be done, forget getting into places like roof channels on a turret, the way to do it is to use disposal drop sheets you can pick up at Bunnings, mask off approximately 2cm's in around the turret edge, then use the plastic to create a curtian by masking taping the sheet to the masked off turret.

 

You should now have the area you are about to work on pretty much isolated, next grab something that will be able to scratch the paint surface through to the metal work without  denting the metal, a good solid sharpened eating fork will do the job, the reason for the scratching is to create areas that the stripper can come in contact with the base metal and therefore not only work its way through the paint from the surface but also attack it from undeneath.

 

Apply the stripper over the entire panel in one shot, the entire surface should have a coating probably 5 mm thick of the crap, now here is the trick, take another drop sheet and cover the entire surface of the applied area and smoth it out with your hand but not pushing down so hard as to drastically move the applied stripper about to much.

 

What the drop sheet does is a few things, #1 it slows the drying out process of the chemical allowing it to stay active longer, #2 it ensures the gooooo dosnt move around during the chemical process, yes this stuff is like ecto plasm on vertical panels in particular it will sag and run, this stops it dead be it a vertical or horizontal panel you are working on, #3 and this is the best part, if it is left long enough, and the chemicals have been able to penitrate the surface, the gell will dry off and stick to the sheet, peel the sheet away after 45 minutes to and hour and hey presto, the paint should peel away with it leaving a bare surface.

 

Remove the masking tape used for the edging and wipe down the entire panel with scotchbrite and paint thinners to remove any traces of the stripper, final surface preperation is critical before painting , if anyone wants the details I can go through that on request.

 

next step, do each panel in the same way, DONT RUSH, get each done properly ONE AT A TIME, I cant stress this enough.

 

On a normal sedan, expect to use between 20-40 litres of the stuff, not sure but at 4litres a can at about $60+ for the good stuff, thats about $600.00 max on a surface that may have been painted and bogged twice in a life time, on original single painted factory surfaces probably 3-4 cans would do the job.

 

So thats paint stripper, great for outer panels, still leaves a lot of work to finish off edge work, no good for floor pans with deadeners on it, wont take out body filler unless its just a surfacing smear as oppossed to a major repair

and you have to get rid of every last trace of it as I have seen custom jobs go south after a few months becuase a trace of the stuff has reactivated during the painting process and slowly worked like cancer until the paint job flared up months later.

 

If you want my opinion on the Garnite / Soda job I had done, am happy to post a further couple of lines upon request.

 

Cheers

 

John

 

[zzzzed]

i usually only use the stripper as a last resort

usually i use the sander grinder with between 36 to 80 grit

Also be careful with this method because if you go to hard in one place you can over heat the panel and cause warping

[FLEXZED]

John your a legend mate

 

thank you for the post on chemical paint stripping

 

after reading the post i think i will defiantly be going with a garnite /soda blasting as the cost to do either will be the same, and i dont have to get dirty

 

thanks again

 

Loui

[Sirpent]

John your a legend mate

 

thank you for the post on chemical paint stripping

 

after reading the post i think i will defiantly be going with a garnite /soda blasting as the cost to do either will be the same, and i dont have to get dirty

 

thanks again

 

Loui

 

Loui, whoa there..............

 

The blasting cut my work time down about 80%, but it aint cheap, My entire body, all panels plus all the suspesion parts will come in at around $2,000, but I had the entire undercarriage done also which took the bulk of the time to do, then you still have to prep the panels to a degree.

 

To me it was worth it, but what you end up with is a lump of bare metal, if you have to do weeks of rust repair you run the risk of surface rust setting in,

 

If the cost dosnt phase you then I would suggest finding as many rust repair areas as posible and attacking and repairing them first before going the blasting, even so after its stripped you will still be faced with more, so PLAN PLAN PLAN before you start, in your case the turret needs to be addressed way before anything is blasted just as a starter.

 

Cheers

 

John

[zzzzed]

yes i have been stripping the paint as i go so the metal isnt exposed for any longer than it has to be

it is now 90% striped and i have used 1 litre of  stripper so it has been very expensive and because i have been striping as i go it hasnt been so tedious,

 

If i was more financial i probably would have gone the soda blast also but $2000 can buy me some new upholstery or new rims

 

[Sirpent]

yes i have been stripping the paint as i go so the metal isnt exposed for any longer than it has to be

it is now 90% striped and i have used 1 litre of  stripper so it has been very expensive and because i have been striping as i go it hasnt been so tedious,

 

If i was more financial i probably would have gone the soda blast also but $2000 can buy me some new upholstery or new rims

 

Mick just 1 litre?????????

 

Mick the way I figure it is that I actually got to do more paid work which meant I didnt have to spend the time stripping but rather just have the girl stripped in one go, pardon the pun.

 

Cheers

 

John

[reverendzed]

hey guys, just my 2cents but i've stripped 3 cars back to bare metal using the chemical method and I use between 3 and 4lt only (that's 3 Zed size vehicles) that combined with an air palm sander is very efficient, don't know that I can do it in a day but definitely a weekend with a total cost of about $60.00.  If you have heaps of funds then outsource however if buget is limited this is an easy second place without as much stripping of hardware that is required for media blasting.

Rev.

[RBZ 260]

yeah i used both chemical and sandblaster.

 

well started with chemical and sriped the roof and all panels. fairly easy besides my bonnet which had 10 coats of 10 different types of paints.

 

on the end i got myself a portable sandblaster unit. got some sand and went crazy over it. took time but was lot quicker than chemical.

 

though doing it yourself u need a decent backyard and filter masks and lot of protection.

 

made a big mess in the backyard.  lot of dust and sand everywhere. im still suprissed neighbours didnt complain.

 

so in my case i used paint striper on all flat and easily accesable panels. on hard to get i used the sandblaster.all undercarage parts were all sand/bleed blasted at mates workshop.

 

my portable blasting machine set me back $250. i used roughly about 2L of paint striper.

 

also took a whole weekend to do it. 

 

 

[zzzzed]

Mick just 1 litre?????????

 

Mick the way I figure it is that I actually got to do more paid work which meant I didnt have to spend the time stripping but rather just have the girl stripped in one go, pardon the pun.

 

Cheers

 

 

 

John

 

sorry should have made my self clearer

 

i didn't use stripper on every panel i used the sander for a lot of it

 

As far as paid work, i do work in a crash shop that has at least two resto jobs at one time.  I am the only panel beater there I am on my 9th body resto since i have been there ranging, from gt falcons to comby vans  (the comby won best VW at show at the Melbourne vw day)  to early corollas, plus a cople of my own.

My boss leaves it up to the customer if he wants to have the car sand blasted other wise its up to me to strip them

i usualy only use stripper on the removable panles so i can lay them flat when applying the stripper

[PeterAllen]

Remember that removal is only HALF the job. If you don't treat the bare metal very quickly then surface rust will soon appear. That's one reason I didn't go with the sodablast - I would have had to have it primed at another location. I had my shell sand blasted and etch prime for $1000 and there was no distortion. The mob I went to do car bodies all the time. Its been on the rotisserie for 18 months since.

 

I am just about to have the shell TIG stitch/seam welded. The welder chap was worried that he might have trouble striking an arc and we rubbed the primer with a hand held wire brush. Bugger me if we couldn't break through the primer. I don't know exactly what it is but it's tough - I'm thinking of spraying on my daughters before they go out on their dates!

[FLEXZED]

can you guys give me your honest opinion on this product

 

i have spoken to a few guys and they really recommend this company

 

Loui

[Brabham]

Hi,

  I would have thought that if you used soda or dry ice (CO2) blasting these methods may both promote rust as they use "active" chemicals. Hence bead/sand blasting seems more logical as the beads would be inert compounds and would not promote rust. Could anyone shed any light on this? Cheers.

[Reaper-Zed]

The problem I have with soda blasting as it can get into places where it was once painted but then when its all down and cleaned out its bare metal but these hard to get places are impossible to paint unless you dip the car in a vat of primer, so it might look all good but it might be eating itself inside out. I have used a sandblaster of my friends he had a 10ltr pressure pot and lets just say WAY WAY WAY to messy. used a stupid amount sand and was SUPER slow got hand cramps. I paint stripped my house mates ZC fairlane only 2 weekends ago just the doors and engine bay, took about 8-12 hours I think "was up till 4:30am Sunday morning". I also had just got plastic sheets from bunnings but just to lay on the shed ground because it makes a mess of blotches on the ground that dries after about a hour then its real annoying getting off these color spots off the ground.paint stripper is great for the price its annoying in hard places that has alot of curves such as a engine bay but I find it great on outside panel stuff like doors, I only used about 2 liters for all doors and engine bay but that was stretching It I thought, but yeah Sandblasting is messy I'm talking my car was about 50 meters away and it got caked in dust, and you go through a stupid amount of sand to do little work. also can warp panels. Just get some cheap paint stipper from super cheap auto its what I did worked a treat end of the day its just stipping paint doesnt need to be anything fancy in my mind. Personally if it was me I would paint strip as much as I can then hand sand the rest. I have heard the shocking stories of blasting with sand and just that soda removes paint in places you dont want to take off. Sorry for the big post

[maddos]

I'm  a bit confused as to how you think soda removes paint where you can't see. It's the same principle as other blast media, it will strip what it can be pointed at. It won't remove paint in a chemical reaction process. It's also not a good idea to use sand as it can cause silicosis unless you're real careful with your breathing air quality which I assume you probably aren't in the back yard.

[Kent]

Hi Guys,

 

i am planning on stripping my 240Z and trying to prep it to the point where it can sit for a while (a year or so) and not continue rusting.

 

From what i can figure out i have a few options:

 

1) get the shell blasted (around $1600 or so by the looks of it around sydney) then taking it to a panel shop to repair the rust it uncovers. Aparently the blasting company sprays some sort of weld through and paintable clear coat to seal the metal (they will alternatively spray supplied epoxy for $600)

 

2) strip the engine bay, roof, rear panels etc. by chemical stripping (painful but doable), somehow prime/seal these areas.. take it to a panel shop to repair the rust, then get the inside and underneath of the car sandblasted (i am guessing around $1000 or so),

 

 

With method 2, what could i use to seal the metal after chemically stripping, should i use a 2 pack epoxy primer on the good areas (which i can brush on), then some type of weld through spray primer on the bad areas? (which can be epoxied after repair) i don't want to cause more ($$) work for the panel guys to have to get through the epoxy to fix areas..

 

I am happy to try and do anything myself that doesn't create too much noise (including air/power tools) or smell (the neighbours/council already have the shi7$.. apparently i am not even allowed to "maintain" a vehicle in this council!)

[FLEXZED]

hey mate

have a look a my memebers journal now and later tonight and you can see what i have done and who i used to blast my zed

 

tonight i will put up same new pic of the car blasted and clear primed

 

Loui

 

[Kent]

thanks mate, will do

 

btw.. just reading your journal now and came across your post about the only datsun your son would get would be a 2 door 240k..guess what i am currently working on