Zedback Posted April 11, 2009 Author Share Posted April 11, 2009 where abouts did you get them from? what brand? and how much? The main ones I use are 9 inch diameter and fit a low speed polisher (800-1200rpm), don't know what brand, I picked them up from an automotive paint supply shop. I also use the smaller ones that fit a drill, you can pick them up at hardware or supercheap, but keep the drill speed down. The 3"- 4' ones you can get from supercheap to fit a grinder don't last long unless you are very careful to stay away from any edges or ridges. I think the grinder spins too fast and that's why it chews them up so quick. No progress on the Z for the last 2 weeks, started back at work on a new project which is sucking every last bit of energy I've got. What little I have has gone into the seized brakes of this little gem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 I think that's a Morris 8! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted April 11, 2009 Author Share Posted April 11, 2009 I think that's a Morris 8! Somebody give that man a cigar! The brakes on the little old Morris 8 (who's year you may decipher from the number plate) are single circuit 4 wheel hydraulic drum brakes. Very advanced for the time, they replaced the high maintenance cable actuated drums of earlier models and contemporary competition. The ones on this car are currently seized due to corrosion. Mind you to call these "brakes" is generous, they are more "deceleration assistance devices" which are mostly adequate for the whole 8hp that gives the "8' it's name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xa1973 Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 where abouts did you get them from? what brand? and how much? Black Diamond foam buffing pads IE: Orange, Red, White, Black, Yellow, Purple, Grey, the colour of the pad determines the grade of cut you require and matches the type of paint and the colour paint you are working on...any good panel and paint consumables supplier, you pay for quality... Flexovit is the brand of sanding disk @ Super Sander "AKA" flapper disks to suit 4, 5, 7 and 9 inch angle grinder / sanders, they are excellent for stripping and smoothing panels, chassis, engine blocks, and parts in general.........there is really no cheap way to strip panels and parts you can you use other methods of course, chemical, blasting and so on, but these are excellent for working at home......... I use a Ryobi 7 inch variable speed unit, strong and robust with 10 speed selections and well priced, much easier and lighter to use than a 9 inch unit, however you can fit a 9 inch pad on it for the larger areas of stripping / buffing........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Neubauer Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 Somebody give that man a cigar! The brakes on the little old Morris 8 (who's year you may decipher from the number plate) are single circuit 4 wheel hydraulic drum brakes. Very advanced for the time, they replaced the high maintenance cable actuated drums of earlier models and contemporary competition. The ones on this car are currently seized due to corrosion. Mind you to call these "brakes" is generous, they are more "deceleration assistance devices" which are mostly adequate for the whole 8hp that gives the "8' it's name. I want dyno proof on that hp! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeddophile Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 Mind you to call these "brakes" is generous, they are more "deceleration assistance devices" which are mostly adequate for the whole 8hp that gives the "8' it's name. Ha ha - its so tiny.... And with 8 hp, you could probably quite easily jump out, run round the front and stick a brick under the front wheel! I still want one though... not sure why exactly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 I want dyno proof on that hp! Tongue No, no, we wouldn't want to threaten the status of ride on law mower! (14.5hp) Ha ha - its so tiny.... So tiny that 8hp will get it up to 40-45mph! You really would NOT want to go any faster I still want one though... not sure why exactly! It only gets taken out a handful of times in a year but we'll never get rid of it. There is something indefinable about a car that is so simple and basic you can see how all the parts work and fit together, yet is still essentially the same in function, form and componentry as any sophisticated modern car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zedevan Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 thanks for the info on the stripping discs, i need to find a proper body shop supplier thats closer to my house... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted July 25, 2009 Author Share Posted July 25, 2009 4 long months since I've done any serious work, but I finally got one whole day in The fabricated dogleg sitting on the shelf for so long is finally tacked in where it belongs Clamp along the bottom lip and weld first and cleaned up Then welded in properly and given that I'm using a "useless" gasles mig, cleaned up again. Done, woohoo! One of the few things I managed in the last few months is remove the windscreen. The rubber seal was glued in with a rock hard black substance. Rust in the top corners of the windscreen like on my '71 often occurs when the paint is breached during a windscreen replacement. To minimise this in the future, strip it back to bare metal and por15 it. Of course just when you think everything is going well... sunlight where it shouldn't be Underneath is unbroken underbody sealant, on top unbroken sound deadner, in between more bloody rust holes! :'( As previously declared this is a renovation not a restoration, therefore I am patching. Floor replacement can happen in another few years. So... make a template Cut it out of your favourite piece of sheet steel This patch I've made to slip between the foor and the cross rail It's not beautiful, but it'll do Will I get any more done tomorrow, or will it be another 4 months... :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 what is por15? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xa1973 Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 An extremely effective rust preventative coating........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garvice Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3987.0;attach=7177;image I am pretty sure I saw this out near McDowell/Arana Hills area. Stopped on Collins Road I believe, with a man in it? Was a few months ago though, was driving the Datsun. Could that have been you? Are you on the north side of brisbane? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 POR15 is one of a number of coatings designed to stop and prevent rust. I haven't tried the others they may or may not be better but I've had good results from POR15 in the past so I've stuck with it (http://www.ppc.au.com/) No wasn't me The sorry thing has been sitting in it's shed waiting for me to put the brake cylinders back on since Xmas. It lives in the Goldcoast hinterland too and very rarely goes further. There are a scattering of them around though. Woohoo, got most of another day in, despite the demanding assistance of my new helpers;D Figured I best get something finished, so on with the RH floor. Here is the RH chassis rail underneath the holes that were in the floor A simple rectangular patch cutout with the nibbler (and cleaned up a bit with the grinder) Cut the worst of the existing rust out... ...and bend the patch to fit. The magnets make holding it place easy. Stitching it in place from underneath was not so easy, but finally it's done. Words were said More of the underbody will be cleaned away and then all exposed metal will be covered in generous amounts of por15, but that will happen later when I'm ready to do a bulk job. In the meantime I've swapped sides and it's on with the LH dogleg, which at least on the outside is no where near as bad as the RH was. It had been fixed in the past just using bog. After nibbling the worst out into a pair of nice holes to be patched, I then spent the next 10 minutes scraping out a whole heap of dirt rust and rubble. And after all of that I did actually cutout some more patches and tack them in, but bugger me if I forgot to take any more pics. All in all a very satisfying weekend of work on the Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted December 19, 2009 Author Share Posted December 19, 2009 Wow, just looked back and saw that the last time I did any work on the Z was in July! The last half of the year was just a little hectic!!! I now have 4 weeks off and what better way to start than by getting right into a bid of Z reno... Have had guards and doors just hanging around in bare metal and thought rather than diving into stripping more of the shell why not get something constructive done and slap a bit of body filler around. These are the doors and front guards that I've previously patched. The front right guard is pretty good but did have a deep score in the side and a smaller one on top. This was easy! You can see the longer of the two blocks I was using. Not so easy is the front left guard which has had substantially more patching. It had a replacement made for the rear edge and for the lower rear half, leaving seams and gully's. A layer of body filler was put on... ...and then sanded back. Once sanded, it's very easy to see where the low spots are (darker areas). So another layer of body filler goes on... and another... Got most of 8 hours of hand sanding in today. I've used an orbital sander in the past to go quicker but found it left ripples that didn't show up until the top coat went on, ...and I need the exercise. Amongst all that I also got most of two doors done but was too engrossed to remember to take any pics. I'm hoping to get all the body work finished, topcoated and panels re-hung in the next 4 weeks. Here's hoping! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted January 6, 2010 Author Share Posted January 6, 2010 OMG, my arms are ready to drop off... This Z has been well used and abused, resulting in a multitude of minor dents and creases in just about every panel. Nothing serious thankfuly. Two weeks of bogging and sanding and bogging and sanding and bogging and sanding and bogging and sanding and... :'( What's important though is it's starting to look like a real car! Everything is now in etch prime: front guards, shell, cowl panel, bonnet, headlight buckets, lower valence panels... Primer-surfacer going on next, followed by a lot more sanding. Aiming to have it topcoated by the end of the weekend assuming my arms stay attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted January 17, 2010 Author Share Posted January 17, 2010 Wow, did it! Topcoat went on a few days ago, feeling is indescribable ;D ;D Fitted the tail lights: Tail panels required a bit of hammer and dolly work, then sprayed in rattle can satin black. After market shut panel does not come with any pre-drilled holes, marked them out on tape and drilled, just realised I need another pair for the number plate lamp For the first time sice I got it, it actually looks like a car instead of a wreck! Started with this... And now... These pics are before I started the colour sanding this morning, there is much more shine yet to be brought out. I did not get a good gloss off the gun this time unfortunately, but that just means a bit more elbow grease. Engine is up on the engine stand waiting for tear down and inspection. Back to work tomorrow, my xmas break has been most productive and successful. Hopefully it won't be another 6 months before I get time to spend on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
. Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 I love the shot with the windscreen masked up. I vote to leave it that way....armoured van style By the way does this mean you'll be using the glass bumpers soon? Its looking great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reverendzed Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 Great job! did you paint it in Acrylic Lacquer? if so you won't get much gloss off the gun and being metallic I hope you put at least 3 coats of clear to give you something to sand and polish. Rev. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted January 18, 2010 Author Share Posted January 18, 2010 being metallic I hope you put at least 3 coats of clear to give you something to sand and polish. AHHHH, CRAP!!!! The joys of DIY, sometimes you find out the right way to do it after you screw up. Thanks Rev, but no I didn't. I did exactly what I've done in the past for SOLID colors. And of course now that I've gone back and looked at the Technical Data Sheet, there in bold it states it must be completely overcoated with clear, do not rub or scuff. Haven't decided yet about using the glass bumpers or the rough metal ones... :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reverendzed Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 here is a quick fix. mix 1/4 paint to 1/4 clear 1/2 thinners and shoot a double header coat, then when this flashes off spray 2 more coats of clear. the first color/clear mix should fix any 'scuffs' you have already made, you don't need color depth at this points you just need an even distribution of your 'flake' which will happen if you use this process. Leave it a week to harden before you touch it with sanding. hope this helps. Rev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBZ 260 Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 here is a quick fix. mix 1/4 paint to 1/4 clear 1/2 thinners and shoot a double header coat, then when this flashes off spray 2 more coats of clear. the first color/clear mix should fix any 'scuffs' you have already made, you don't need color depth at this points you just need an even distribution of your 'flake' which will happen if you use this process. Leave it a week to harden before you touch it with sanding. hope this helps. Rev +1 on this one. also to comment great work and the car is looking great. besides a small hickup missing the clear coat should be on the road soon. should give urself big tap on the shoulder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
. Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 a big tap on the shoulder.....now there is an idea... That would be so convenient for washing your hands after working on the car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 here is a quick fix. mix 1/4 paint to 1/4 clear 1/2 thinners and shoot a double header coat, then when this flashes off spray 2 more coats of clear. the first color/clear mix should fix any 'scuffs' you have already made, you don't need color depth at this points you just need an even distribution of your 'flake' which will happen if you use this process. Leave it a week to harden before you touch it with sanding. hope this helps. Rev Dave, advice very much appreciated. Picked up can of clearcoat, now just have to wait for the rain to stop and the humidity to drop to a tolerable level. Johnny, Still a little ways off! Engine, mechanicals, hydraulics all in need of rebuild/refresh. Hopefully will get some of it done before Christmas comes around again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedback Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 Quick follow up - clear coat finally on and it's looking really good. I'll leave it harden for a few weeks at least now before very fine wet'n'dry sanding. Many thanks to reverendzed (really liking the orange Dave). I was feeling so good about getting the '73 to this stage that I thought I'd have a serious go at the '71 that has been so forlornly sitting under the carport for the last 3 years. So to get started I bought another Z. It's a yellow 2+2 that has sadly seen better days and has already been used as a donor, but he roof looks mostly sound and both the rear arches are good. I'll be taking the roof skin off and separating out the roof rails underneath for re-use, if I can successfully complete this then I'll move on to all the other "typical" rust problems... of which it has most! If anyone wants a 2+2 roof skin let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 That colour looks great, well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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