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'73 240z reno (Warning: many pictures)


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I'll get on the bandwagon and share as much of this renovation as I can.  I call it a renovation because I'm more keen on getting it back on the road than doing a "proper" restoration for which there isn't the budget anyway.  So if I take short cuts that offend, that's my excuse and too bad.

 

It arrived Xmas before last after sitting under a house since 1988...

01arrival.jpg

 

Where it was tucked away in the shed while I was distracted by the 280zx.

02tuckedaway.jpg

 

Before tucking it away I thought it wise to first remove the engine.  Though it had been sitting this way for 20 years, it had just traveled across Brisbane on the back of a truck.  (There is a few bits missing: gearbox, front guard, seats, radiator)

03needsnewenginemounts.jpg

 

So finally after 20 years under a house and 12 months in my shed, it's out and work has begun!

04outforplay.jpg

 

Stripping is a tedious process, you can do it financially, chemically or mechanically.  Haven't go the $$s and can't stand the smell of paint stripper, so I choose mechanical.  These stripper discs are very effective

05Strppingguard.jpg

 

If I could get the photos off my mobile phone I'd have more detail here, but basically the bottom and rear edge of this guard were rust damaged.  Replacement panels were cut from useful sections of a 280zx guard and welded in with a cheap 2nd hand gas-less mig.  Por15 has been painted into the weld area and then stripped off the surface

06strippedandwelded.jpg

06strippedandwelded.jpg

 

The entire inner surface of the guard has been stripped and painted with por15.  Expensive stuff but I've had good results with it in the past so I'll stick with it.

08por15guard.jpg

 

More to come...

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thanks for sharing , its good to see others getting hands on with repairing these wonderful cars

 

keep the photos coming i like looking at blogs of rebuilds

 

i must say that the body work part is by far the worst and least enjoyable part of building a car!!!

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I call it a renovation because I'm more keen on getting it back on the road than doing a "proper" restoration for which there isn't the budget anyway.  So if I take short cuts that offend, that's my excuse and too bad.

 

No need to apologise or make excuses, she is a basket case so putting her back on the road is good for everyone. I think we all know what the cost of resurrecting such a car would be, if you are happy with it that will be the main thing.

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So the other reason to post all this up is to embarass myself into keeping the work up and not letting it slide into the "too hard, too many other things to do' basket.  :-[

At this point time I'm taking the most useable bits off the 2 cars.  From the '71 z I'm pinching the RH door and the fibreglass bonnet.  You would think a fibreglass bonnet would be rust free, but no, the hinge attachements are steel, at least it is only some surface rust!  Haven't decided yet whether to use the steel or fibreglass headlight scoops.  Unless I find a front spoiler I'll also be using the lower front valence panels.

So to bring you up to date:

Left door has been stripped and other than dents isn't too bad.

09strippeddoorextras.jpg

 

There is a rust hole which I haven't yet decided whether to weld up or fill over for now?

10doorrusthole.jpg

 

The right door has had previous repairs to the front lower corner and rear lower edge.  These had rusted over again and the filler had cracked and fallen out.  They've been cleaned up as well as possible and por15'd.

11RHdoor.jpg

 

The area where the mirror bolts to had rusted badly.  This area was cut out and a new piece of metal inserted.  I'm using lap welds on all of these, but welding proved impossible.  After cutting out the piece I recess the area as best and minimally as possible.  Some areas are easier to do than others, this area of the door is very difficult.  There will be a good layer of filler required over the top.

12RHdoorrepair.jpg

 

And this is why I'm using the door off the '71, this one will get reskinned at a later date.

13whatitsreplacing.jpg

 

Tailgate shut panel was removed earlier and a new one has been ordered.  At the moment this is likely to be the only new panel.  Area has been cleaned up and por15'd.  When the new one arrives I'll look at where I need to strip it back to weld the new panel in.  Advice welcome from anyone who's replaced this panel before?

14needatailgateshutpanel.jpg

 

Yet to be done are the right and left doglegs / sills.  Both need some work and I'm yet to decide how best to approach them...

15rightsilldogleg.jpg

16leftsilldogleg.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had to revert back to paint stripper for the cowl panel, those vents just cannot be done any other way!  The wire cup brush was still useful though. 

17Cowlpanel3.jpg

 

Nearly there, but I still have more work to do cleaning out the vents...

30Cowlpanel5.jpg

You can see the pitting where foam pads were glued on.  What have people replaced these with?  ???

29Cowlpanel4.jpg

 

Along with the door the RH sill panel has taken a hit.

18RHSilldented1.jpg

19RHSilldented2.jpg

 

I've cut two vertical slits with hacksaw

22RHSillrepair2.jpg

 

And now I'm slicing the crease across the top

21RHSillrepair1.jpg

 

The sheet parts easily along the crease

23RHSillrepair3.jpg

 

and then fold it down

24RHSillrepair4.jpg

 

I've decided this is the most useful tool in the workshop!  It's being used to straighten out the outer sill

25RHSillrepair5.jpg

 

Ta-da! It worked a treat

26RHSillrepair6.jpg

 

A bit if work with hammer and dolly and it's folded back in place ready to be welded in

27RHSillrepair7.jpg

 

Very exciting, the only new steel in the Z.  Got it off ebay but I think it's the Rare Spares item

28Newpanel.jpg

 

Stripping headlight scoops is particularly tedious!  The right one is pretty good

32RHScoop.jpg

 

But the left one has the telltale sign of bodyfiller appearing

31LHScoop.jpg

 

Two scoops stripped, damn!

33Scoopsstripped.jpg

 

Sure enough, the front of the left one is a little crumpled. 

34LHScoopdents1.jpg

Got it off ebay but the seller is unlikely to have known, I couldn't tell until I started stripping it.

35LHScoopsdents2.jpg

 

Started in on the left dogleg. It's just a little worse than hoped for, but isn't that always the way with rust...

36RHdoglegworse.jpg

 

Now this is the danger point where a renovation can verge into a restoration.  Do I close my eyes and weld a bit of sheet over the top?  Or do I start tearing the dogleg apart?  It's too much to ignore, dive in!

Spot welds

37RHdoglegrepair1.jpg

 

Horizontal cut

38RHdoglegrepair2.jpg

 

More spot welds and it'll pop off

39RHdoglegrepair3.jpg

 

Fold it down and... this is why everywhere you read or hear about rust, they say it's always worse than looks on the outside.  My '71 240z stands testament to that too.

Yuck, rust, dirt, bog, wax sealer, holes, it's a mess.

40RHdoglegrepair4.jpg

 

Time to toilet train the Z, it's just left a pile of crap on the floor

41RHdoglegcrap.jpg

 

Take out the remaining spot welds along the bottom and tear the junk off

42RHdoglegrepair5.jpg

 

Wire cup brush helps clean it out and shows up where the holes are

43RHdoglegrepair6.jpg

 

And a bit more cleaning up with a grinding disc

43RHdoglegrepair6.jpg

 

Patch made up for the easy hole where the dogleg meets the sill.  It's held in place by a small Neodynium magnet.  I picked up a bunch of these off ebay.  Very strong and very useful.  Great for holding sheet while you tack weld.  Don't let them get too hot or they lose all magnetism and become useless ceramic pellets.

45RHdoglegrepair8.jpg

 

Tacked in place

46RHdoglegrepair9.jpg

 

Shape a bit with hammer and weld in

47RHdoglegrepair10.jpg

 

Clean it up and "hey presto"

48RHdoglegrepair11.jpg

 

There was a small hole on top of the sill, this one I just bridged

49RHdoglegrepair12.jpg

 

More on the nasty dogleg when I figure out what to do next, but I did a bit more on the LH door.  Bridged one small hole

50LHdoorrepair1.jpg

 

Made up some small patches for the others and again using the little magnets, tacked,

51LHdoorrepair2.jpg

 

Welded,

52LHdoorrepair3.jpg

 

and cleaned them up!

53LHdoorrepair4.jpg

54LHdoorrepair5.jpg

 

Progress is good at the moment but I'm back to work next week.  I'll see how far I can get before the weekend is over and it grinds to a halt.

 

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Great work mate, really good to see it documented like this too. I know how you felt about the rust in the lower sill, but I'm sure your glad you got in there and cleaned it up.

 

Eager to see this progress along, makes me anxious to dive into my own Zed too bad its half the world away though :).

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Chop the top and make a convertible

The thought has crossed my mind once or twice I must admit...  :-\

 

...this will do as a guide though

Hope it gives you some ideas.  I've been staring at it for more than 12 months wondering how and where to start.  Finally decide to just jump in!  ;D

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The driverside dogleg as I found out is swiss cheese.  Does anyone know if there are repair sections available?

55swisscheese1.jpg

56swisscheese2.jpg

 

I didn't menton earlier, this is where I am sourcing my patch panels, a bent 280zx guard. 

57mydonorsteel.jpg

 

It's been more useful than I first though because I have beem able to reuse profiles and folds that suit.  Here is the donor section for the dogleg

58doglegreplacement.jpg

 

The fold on the rear edge is modified from the guard.  The lower profile is shaped by gently bending with pliers.  The trick is to use the nose of the pliers to carefully form the crease.  Don't bend more than 30 degrees at a time.  Work along and back a few times until you get the right angle. 

59dogleglowerprofile1.jpg

 

The wider fold was formed the same way but using the deeper grip of my favourite tool using exactly the same technique

60dogleglowerprofile2.jpg

 

Tidy up both folds with a hammer and dolly.

61dogleglowerprofile3.jpg

 

Trial fit

62doglegtrialfit.jpg

 

Lower profile not right, have another go

63dogleglowerprofiletake2.jpg

 

Had a brainwave!  Reuse the top profile of the old dogleg

64doglegreusingupperprofile.jpg

 

Double check it still fits

65doglegupperprofiletrialfit.jpg

 

Put new section on as well and mark out where they meet

66doglegmarkingjoin1.jpg

 

Add about an 8mm overlap, cut to shape and form a lip.  Same technique as above but take even more time and care.  You want to form the lip fold first and then bend the overlap back to parallel

67doglegmakinglip.jpg

 

Should end up looking like this

68dogleglipcomplete1.jpg

69dogleglipcomplete2.jpg

 

Clamp the two parts together

71doglegassembly1.jpg

 

Start tacking them together

72doglegassembly2.jpg

 

Not too bad I think

74doglegassemblytrialfit.jpg

 

Can't weld the new dogleg in yet, more holes to patch

75innerguardpatch1.jpg

 

Judicious use of a hammer to shape... Easy

76innerguardpatch2.jpg

 

Until next time...

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kameri have stock of new engine mounts...

Where do you get them from?  Is there any advantage over stock Nissan mounts?

 

It was a big job

That I can believe!  Did you fabricate your own patches/panels or source them from somewhere?

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Where do you get them from?  Is there any advantage over stock Nissan mounts?

 

That I can believe!  Did you fabricate your own patches/panels or source them from somewhere?

 

yeh i fabricated the dog legs and inner seals

 

here is a youtube vis of how i did it

 

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Thanks guys

the rotisserie makes life so much easier and it only took half a day to build.

 

I'll do some more vids soon, I am finding it hard to find time at the moment other peoples projects have to come first unfortunately. especially when they are paying me  ;D

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
These stripper discs are very effective

 

where abouts did you get them from? what brand? and how much?

 

I just went and got the only similar looking thing from the local hardware store, and for the price it was and amount of a panel that i managed to strip it seems like an expensive method!?!

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