Front Sway Bar Mount Broken Bolt

[Knight240Z]

On Saturday (which was one of the toughest days ever) where everything just went wrong "EVERYTHING" and to start with the biggest issue I really need your help in finding the correct way in fixing this.

 

Was at a shop changing all the bushings at the front of the car one of the bolts that connects the Sway bar to the frame broke (not uncommon, I understand), the bolt was taken out but not before the hole in the frame being destroyed (now this I don’t understand how it happened especially by a professional) and now the new bolt will not fix in anymore. Now what is the right way of fixing this?

 

What options do you recommend to really fix it correctly? Do I really need to cut the frame and weld in a nut from the inside? Mind you the frame is very solid. And can you recommend a place in Melbourne to do this repair as at the moment i dont have the space/tools to do any of the work myself?

[CBR Jeff]

Murphy gets involved all to often.

Yes these bolts can be a problem. They thread into nuts that are welded onto a pressed steel bracket that is spot welded onto the inside of the frame rail. The pressed bracket is a 90 deg bracket that is attached to both the bottom and the inside (engine side) of the rail.

Depending on the state of the existing hole/fastenings you have several options.

First one as a temporary fix would be to tap the existing fastener to one size larger and use it.

Then as time allows the operation to repair properly requires some surgery.

A hole needs to be cut, the old bracket removed a new one fabricated and attached then the hole that was cut needs to be replaced. None of this is to dificult but takes a bit of skill and a selection of tools.

Remembering that the route cause of the problem was rust. So there will be more rust inside the rail and I'm betting under the strengthening plates above the radius rod mounts also. So you should attend to this at the same time. The other side will probably be similar.

I am not from down your way so not sure on all your options for repairers but if Lurch has the time he would be my first port of call.

 

Jeff

[260DET]

How about getting the thread repaired by a thread repair guy? I don't know for sure that it would work there, those with experience may like to comment.

[dat2kman]

Only go next size up in thread tapping size, as, the internal captive nut is not all that large on its outer diameter.

 

To insert a Helicoil, it also gets drilled and tapped, but you then go back to stock sized bolt.

Due to being an internal captive, old mate Rusty McRusto can have a habit of reaperaring into not only the threads of the bolt into the Helicoil, but also into the threads between Helicoil, and captive nut. A double PITA.

[CBR Jeff]

Going next size up would only be a short term resolution as the rust is the route cause and needs to be sorted.

 

Jeff

[Andrew_L26]

You should be able to cut out the inner arch down the bottom and access it. You could either repair what's there or replace it with a piece of angle iron which is what I did (welding new nuts on/tapping the angle iron)

 

What it looks like inside

 

 

Replaced with angle iron

 

Also, I would run a tap through all the other holes to clean them out, using plenty of WD-40 in the process. Also make sure you replace the bolts with high tensile as they can be under a fair bit of force.

 

Cheers,

Andrew

[PeterAllen]

...Also, I would run a tap through all the other holes to clean them out, using plenty of WD-40 in the process....

 

Just a word of caution. I'm fairly sure those welded nuts have an end-taper thread or possibly a peened (piened) end to act like a locknut, designed to make them somewhat shakeproof. This is the likely cause of the 'undo' problems. Use an 'intermediate' tap if any. Just WD40 is the best option.

 

If you do use a 'plug' tap then don't force it harder than removing rust. Stop when you feel resistance.

 

None of this is relevant to the OP.

Edited August 9, 2016 by PeterAllen

[Knight240Z]

Thanks guys! That is what I feared. I just don’t want to start with this work now, will see if tapping a size larger will do the trick for now.  

 

Jeff do you have contact details? And does anyone know of a good mechanic that can do work remotely (change starter motor/electrical fault check)? As I have a wiring problem which I can't find that is darning the power and forcing the car to shutdown at low RPM that cased the Starter Motor to give-up on Saturday. (I assume that is the case as it only happens when the lights are on)

 

[CBR Jeff]

Thanks guys! That is what I feared. I just don’t want to start with this work now, will see if tapping a size larger will do the trick for now.  

 

Jeff do you have contact details? And does anyone know of a good mechanic that can do work remotely (change starter motor/electrical fault check)? As I have a wiring problem which I can't find that is darning the power and forcing the car to shutdown at low RPM that cased the Starter Motor to give-up on Saturday. (I assume that is the case as it only happens when the lights are on)

 

PM Sent

Jeff

[nat0_240_chevZ]

I make these brkts with nuts tacked in 3 places for my rails.

See pic below.

But even saying this, it is a fair old process to change it,the best and easiest solution is up.

Pic now added,sorry it the only one on my phone.

 

Nat0

Edited August 9, 2016 by nat0_240_chevZ

[260DET]

For those of you worried about rust in this area, Supercheep sell a spray can of fish oil cheap. It's great to finish off local repairs.