Jacking Point For Front & Rear Of 240Z

[the red zed]

Hi guys,

 

I had the privilege to own a 240z just few days ago. As I need to do replace the existing tyres, could someone please tell me where are the safest points to floor jack the front & rear without damaging/ flexing the body. Also, any Z shop in Brisbane that does good works & reasonable price. ? Thank you kindly.

[gav240z]

Rear of car, the rear sills, where the dog leg section is. However 240z's often rust out in this area so you want to make sure your car hasn't been bogged up in this area.

 

I also use the front chassis rail, where the castor rods connect to the front rail. To place jack stands.

 

In terms of not denting or damaging the floors, you could use a piece of wood between the jack and the chassis. I've also used rags on the jack stands as a form of cushion or soften the hard edges of stands against the relatively soft metal on the chassis / car.

 

Don't jack from the rear of the chassis rail under the floor.

 

I also tend to use the front cross-member as a jacking point to lift the car at the front.

 

Come to think of it, I usually jack the front of the car up using the cross-member, rear of the car via the diff and I put jack stands under the front chassis rails where the castor rods connect and on the rear of the car you can use the sills or the rear of the chassis (not rear rails) where the rear cross-member is. I'll try and dig out some photos, but basically avoid the soft metal areas like floor pans etc.. Basically any box section / metal should be solid enough.

[260DET]

A common mistake is to jack or use stands anywhere on the frame rails that run under the body from front to back. Sills are often rusted as Gavin said so be careful there. Suspension mount points and the diff are good.

[Knight240Z]

I hope these pics help.

[Gordo]

Try these spots also. With the rear you can do one wheel at a time buy jacking the rear control arm in close to the wheel. You only need to lift 20mm , it's much safer.

[Sirpent]

On the zed, along each sill panel there is a weld lip and 1/2 circular notches at either end and on either side, these were put there during production and are the points that Nissan designated as the jack points.

 

See pic of 1200 attached as an example

 

Cheers

 

John

Edited August 5, 2016 by Sirpent

[gav240z]

Yeah I am not a fan of that spot, too much fender squashy squashy Paint chips etc.. Just never felt right there.

[the red zed]

Rear of car, the rear sills, where the dog leg section is. However 240z's often rust out in this area so you want to make sure your car hasn't been bogged up in this area.I also use the front chassis rail, where the castor rods connect to the front rail. To place jack stands.In terms of not denting or damaging the floors, you could use a piece of wood between the jack and the chassis. I've also used rags on the jack stands as a form of cushion or soften the hard edges of stands against the relatively soft metal on the chassis / car.Don't jack from the rear of the chassis rail under the floor.I also tend to use the front cross-member as a jacking point to lift the car at the front.Come to think of it, I usually jack the front of the car up using the cross-member, rear of the car via the diff and I put jack stands under the front chassis rails where the castor rods connect and on the rear of the car you can use the sills or the rear of the chassis (not rear rails) where the rear cross-member is. I'll try and dig out some photos, but basically avoid the soft metal areas like floor pans etc.. Basically any box section / metal should be solid enough.

I knew I would be in the right forum for the right pointers.. When jacking the front of the car, is it safer to stick jack in the middle section of the crossmember to jack the whole front evenly or safe enough just to jack one side at a time?(not to twist the chassis). Sorry no intention to throw a silly question( newbie question) better be safe than sorry I guess...Its all about the love of the Z. thank you kindly.

[Sirpent]

The cross member has a reo plate on it, however you can still through out the geometry of the cross member by jacking it here through bending the cross member if the jack head is small, you wouldn't do it with a normal jack but rather a trolley jack and even then I would use a good piece of wood that distributes the lead across the bottom face of the cross member.

[the red zed]

Thanks

The cross member has a reo plate on it, however you can still through out the geometry of the cross member by jacking it here through bending the cross member if the jack head is small, you wouldn't do it with a normal jack but rather a trolley jack and even then I would use a good piece of wood that distributes the lead across the bottom face of the cross member.

Thanks heaps Sirpent, that's exactly what I've done using a piece of wood to distribute the pressure across the crossmember.

[the red zed]

Thank you all for all the valuable pointers .....

[dat2kman]

What workshop services do you require?

 

Now that we have had eleventy different ways to jack ,,,,,

[the red zed]

Basically the brake still a bit spongy after the FR-FL-RR-RL bleeds sequence.. The left side flasher temperamental & SU carnies needs tuning... Cheers...

[gav240z]

Another option, but if you're working on brakes perhaps not that practical.

 

I have these ramps, with wooden planks in front because the car is low, it allows me to get the car onto the ramps.

 

Good for changing oils etc.. But if you need to change suspension, brakes etc.. not so helpful.

[the red zed]

Good man ...thanks Gav240z