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Posted

Finally gotten my 260z yesterday after spending sometime in the port waiting custom clearance. The car is from UK.

Some parts are missing, some i think its new.. if you notice something not right please do let me know. :)

 

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Posted

Must be happy to finally have it? How if the body work, are the floors solid?

 

The rear bumper has been smoothed off and removed as I'm sure you noticed. The rear beaver panel appears to have been modified a bit to remove the holes in it and the exhaust outlet area is different from stock. It was probably re-worked during previous rust repairs.

 

Certainly an early RS30.

Posted

Hi gav! Yes and no actually.. I didn't get to view the car when i purchased it, the deal was thru an agent located in uk.

Floors and underneath all been redone nicely, it has MOT( uk roadtax regulations on car) so i was told the car is good.

There are some little dents only visible if look closely from certain angle and door cant close properly, i need to slam it hard to close it :(

 

I think I'm gonna store this away for the time being. My currency is at it lowest right now and im restoring the other 240z. Getting parts on ebay is a PAIN!

im going to leave the rear bumper part as it is now, looks quite okay without bumpers actually.

 

Have a few questions,

 

1. Are the emblems on the ducktails correctly placed?

2. Is the car missing fresh air duct? My 240z has air duct.

3. Where can i get the 2 missing knobs under the A/C vent?

4. When i start the engine, the rpm gauge goes straight to 8000rpm, is this wiring problem?

5. Is the seats original or has it been changed?

Posted

Carbs and airbox look like 240z items, im not up to speed on early 260zs but i thought they all had the flat top carbs and different shaped box. Someone might be able to clarify.

Posted

Yes its missing air ducts.

 

And the seats are not original.

 

It also has 240z carbs and airbox as mentioned.

Posted

.... and door cant close properly, i need to slam it hard to close it :(

.

 

 

This would have 240Z style door latches, correct?. Try readjusting the striker positioning. If that doesn't work, or the striker looks worn down, then this is how I fixed mine in the late 1980s

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/36105-fixed-the-door-slaming-issue/

Posted (edited)

Ditto what Retro Z said. Good score with the round-top carbs & airbox, everyone with a '73-on Zed biffs the flat-tops & gets a set of those round-tops if they can.

For some reason the radio location on the console has been blanked off, hopefully the console behind is intact & not hacked around.

You queried a round button on the console, if that's the one in the vertical face of the console it looks like a simple rubber plug filling a hole in the blanking plate, someone probably had a switch there for spotlights at one time.

When you asked about the fresh air vent sorry I thought you meant the one under the dash; yes there should be a plastic flexi duct on each side behind the radiator support.

You can position the badges on the bobtail spoiler how you want, it's aftermarket; without the bobtail both 'Datsun' and '260Z' are together on the RH side of the hatch. Personally I think the 'Datsun' italic script looks a bit odd when attached to a bobtail, so I just have '260Z' by itself on the slightly raised bit of the bobtail on the RH side.

The seats have been recovered & a good choice of material, the original vinyl earned a reputation for splitting.

The car looks fine from what I can discern, hasn't been too f****d around with like so many by this era have.

Edited by gilltech
Posted

You can position the badges on the bobtail spoiler how you want, it's aftermarket; without the bobtail both 'Datsun' and '260Z' are together on the RH side of the hatch. Personally I think the 'Datsun' italic script looks a bit odd when attached to a bobtail, so I just have '260Z' by itself on the slightly raised bit of the bobtail on the RH side.

 

Rear spoiler was factory-fit stock equipment on UK market RS30-U 'Datsun 260Z' model, not aftermarket.

Posted (edited)

Ditto what Retro Z said. Good score with the round-top carbs & airbox, everyone with a '73-on Zed biffs the flat-tops & gets a set of those round-tops if they can...

US '73 240Z's had flat tops - but Australian (and I think, UK) '73 240Z's were supplied with round tops.

Edited by GongZ
Posted (edited)

"Rear spoiler was factory-fit stock equipment on UK market RS30"

Well there you go, I'm so wrong, you lucky Brits!!, I'd thought they were generally made in country. Are there part numbers on the u/s of genuine original ones?

So what about that front lip one sees on UK Z cars, were they only on UK cars too, and on all?

Edited by gilltech
Posted

"Rear spoiler was factory-fit stock equipment on UK market RS30"

Well there you go, I'm so wrong, you lucky Brits!!, I'd thought they were generally made in country. Are there part numbers on the u/s of genuine original ones?

So what about that front lip one sees on UK Z cars, were they only on UK cars too, and on all?

 

It's all in the factory parts manuals.

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Posted

This would have 240Z style door latches, correct?. Try readjusting the striker positioning. If that doesn't work, or the striker looks worn down, then this is how I fixed mine in the late 1980s

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/36105-fixed-the-door-slaming-issue/

 

I've also got some door alignment tips in here:

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/3202-tutorial-door-skin-removal-for-dummies/page-3

 

Whatever you do, don't do what I've seen and heard of other workshops doing to fix a saggy door, don't put a 2x4 of wood under the door frame and jack the car up by it's door to try and bend the door upwards. That's wrong and will destroy the hinges. If you take the non-hamfisted approach you can get the door alignment pretty good. I still have to experiment with shims on mine to see how that alters the overall fit and still need to grind down the upper skin ledge.

 

The thing about these cars is they have had various repairs over the years, often done poorly / in a rush and they do more harm than good long term. So you kind of have to be a detective to figure out what has gone on and why it won't align.

 

You can also re-pin the door hinges, there is a thread on here somewhere about it. I'll see if I can dig it up. You can check to see if the door hinges are flogged out and need re-pinning by opening the door and trying to tilt it up and down from the rear of the door, if you get a clicking and some play in the door hinge you know it's flogged out and needs to be re-pinned. If it doesn't move and is solid with no major movement then it should be ok.

 

*Edit found the thread here:

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/10316-sagging-door-hinges/

 

Enjoy you can spend many hours sorting this out. Trust me. But it is worth it.

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