Moderators PB260Z Posted April 19, 2015 Moderators Posted April 19, 2015 that's because i have no idea how to donate and how the forum works but yes the support has been great, so i will find out right now There is a link on the Home page. http://www.viczcar.com Or send Gav a PM Quote
aircobra Posted April 19, 2015 Author Posted April 19, 2015 txfered some cash looks like i'l have to drill them out. what size and type should i use? i don't think bunings special is going to go the distance, maybe i need cobalt or ti coated Quote
aircobra Posted April 19, 2015 Author Posted April 19, 2015 the strut tubes were filled with some foul spelling oil, which i thought was the shocks leaking, but looking at the manual, you need to fill the tubes with "Nisaan shock oil" 290m per strut I never heard of it? Presumably it's used to transfer heat from the shock to the outer tube? Quote
PeterAllen Posted April 19, 2015 Posted April 19, 2015 the strut tubes were filled with some foul spelling oil, which i thought was the shocks leaking, but looking at the manual, you need to fill the tubes with "Nisaan shock oil" 290m per strut I never heard of it? Presumably it's used to transfer heat from the shock to the outer tube? Perhaps that is referring to a wet strut? Are they wet OEM or did they have inserts for manufacture? txfered some cash looks like i'l have to drill them out. what size and type should i use? i don't think bunings special is going to go the distance, maybe i need cobalt or ti coated If I recall the spindles are fairly soft so I would use a series of bits to gradually bore it out. You might not want to drill through as you could locate a punch at the bottom of the holes as you get to size and punch the remainder out. Quote
Riceburner Posted April 19, 2015 Posted April 19, 2015 Here's a few pics of the pin puller. The inner rod has threaded holes at each end, they go on to the spindle, the outer tube slides over the top and the nut tightens against it. Quote
aircobra Posted April 19, 2015 Author Posted April 19, 2015 they looked like these presumably 74 260z still had the short strut towers? Quote
aircobra Posted April 19, 2015 Author Posted April 19, 2015 forgot the link http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/311009623478?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=107&chn=ps http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYB-STRUTS-SHOCKS-FITS-71-73-NISSAN-DATSUN-240Z-SET-OF-4-/360484133456 Quote
d3c0y Posted April 19, 2015 Posted April 19, 2015 The ones we did wouldnt budge until they were completely drilled through and for one we even had to put a hacksaw blade inside it and cut through. We used Bunnings drill bits and got the press from there too for a pretty good price. Quote
fluegel Posted June 30, 2015 Posted June 30, 2015 Iv'e been there basically I soaked them with CRC and then hammered them out with a brass drift. The problem in my case ,and I suspect in other cases, is not rust but the tapered lock pin(cotter pin). When I got the spindle out the flat in the middle has been skwished to one side by the spindle being tightened too much at one end pulling the spindle hard against the lock pin. So when you tighten up the nuts at each end of the spindle do it progressively each end till you get to the final torque settings and do use antiseize. I replaced the spindles with new ones anyway. Quote
aircobra Posted June 30, 2015 Author Posted June 30, 2015 it looks like the root cause is the rubber bushes at the ends hardening, grease drying out and seeping water into the housing. i'll be putting plenty of fresh grease when i re-install Quote
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