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Posted

Hi guys and girls

First time post I recently purchased a 260z from laz on this site from Victoria and got it trucked to Adelaide quick question. The clutch pedal was flat to the floor so I resealed the mater cylinder and bled the system and now I have a great feel on the clutch pedal. But when I go to put it into gear it just grinds :( I have good movement on the operating cylinder aswell. What next guys what else could be wrong ?

 

Thanks :)

Posted

Maybe the gearbox wasn't installed properly and the clutch disk isnt properly aligned on the shaft and is jammed up against the pressure plate. Or the throwout bearing collar is too short not allowing the full amount of travel needed to fully disengage. Try using a slightly longer bolt/rod in place of the current rod on the slave cylinder. Also do you have a aftermarket clutch master? The aftermarket ones have a shorter pushrod than required and gave me similar issues to what you are having.

Posted

Was it driving ok before?

If so, issue will be with clutch hdraulic system, you may need to bleed both master cyl, as well as slave cyl.

Have someone look under car ( use axle stands etc) while you push pedal down, to ensure clutch slave cylinder is mving the clutch forka "good" pedal does not necessarily ,ean the clutch fork is mving fully!

Posted

Thanks guys no the car wasnt running hasn't run for 14 years till yesterday. The master cylinder is original all that was done was a seal kit. But I am hoping tomorrow I can chase up a slave cylinder seal kit so I can rule that out before I start ripping into the clutch

Posted

Gearboxes and clutches dont like sitting around.....especially for 14 years !!  :P

"Could" need to remove the gearbox...?

Just wait for one of the lads to respond...

 

Posted

It's probably all seized together. Redneck way is to pull off the coil lead and start in gear and operate the clutch a couple of times. Spray some WD40 with a nozzle in the clutch fork opening may help too

  • Moderators
Posted

It's probably all seized together. Redneck way is to pull off the coil lead and start in gear and operate the clutch a couple of times. Spray some WD40 with a nozzle in the clutch fork opening may help too

 

Agree most likely siezed together, and you need to break them apart.

Scoota's idea usually works (not sure about the WD) it worked on my 280. if not try rocking the car in gear with the clutch depressed.

 

If neither of thse ideas work, you may be up for box out and manually separate them.

 

Good luck

 

PB

 

Posted

If you have good feel on the clutch the and you can see the slave cylinder shaft move the hydraulics are all good.

 

The clutch plate is seized to the flywheel so when you push in the clutch, while the pressure plate releases the pressure on the clutch plate, the clutch is still stuck to the flywheel and this spins the clutch plate and the first motion shaft.

 

I used to get around this by towing the car in gear with the clutch depressed, comes off in a jiffy. Or use Scoota's idea first as that is easier.

Posted

Even now if I lay-up my zed for a period of time I depress the clutch pedal and wedge a 90x45 between it and the seat.

I once bought a type 3 VW and had the plates sieze after been stored for many years, the 'redneck" method also worked for me..  (Or should it be the bogan method Scoot !)

 

Posted

Good news guys gave the slave cylinder a service as the piston was seized half way and depressed the clutch and rolled it in gear. All good now  :) good start to the forum guys glad you can help a newbie out ???? I will hopefully start a bit of a build profile for it soon

 

:)

  • Moderators
Posted

Good news guys gave the slave cylinder a service as the piston was seized half way and depressed the clutch and rolled it in gear. All good now  :) good start to the forum guys glad you can help a newbie out ???? I will hopefully start a bit of a build profile for it soon

 

:)

 

Glad you got it sorted.

 

Cheers

 

PB

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