hydrolic of solid lifters?

[zedevan]

hey, stupid question, would my stock l26 have hydrolic or solid lifters?

 

my cars started to make quite a bad tapping sound, any suggestions on an easy fix?

[Toecutter]

I think the there is a P90A head on some L28's that had hydraulic lifters, not on any standard L26 motors though. Does it sound like noisy tappets?

[zedevan]

yeah noisy tappets is what one of my mates said, so i take off the cover and adjust somethign yeah?

 

i think my dad knows what to do, but he wanted me to find out the answer to what type of lifters it had. dam...i wanted an excuse to change the motor...althoguh i spent half a day last weekend finding and putting on an electric fan as my clutch/viscous fan seized

[luke_mcmahon85]

only p90a heads had hydraulic lifters, and even then, i don't know if they came to australia, as mine has solid lifters as does every other one i've seen/heard of here in aus.

[Toecutter]

I'm pretty sure all you need is a set of feeler gauges and some spanners. My haynes manual has the clearances but I've lent it to Quan.

[Rod F]

Haynes manual states following for clearances:

 

(Cold)

 

Inlet:        0.20mm

Exhaust:    0.25mm

 

(Hot)

 

Inlet:        0.25mm

Exhaust    0.30mm

 

 

As Sulio mentioned, you just need 2 spanners and feeler gauges.

 

Cheers

[zedevan]

thanks for the info, i'll give it a shot on the weekend

[tattoo_ink]

when you do the adjustments on each cylinders intake and exhaust rockers make sure its on tdc so both valves are fully closed (easiest way is to turn the engine till the opposite cylinders rockers rock between the exhaust closing and the intake opening then you know your on tdc for that cylinder ), check and set the gap then move to the next one.

the opposite cylinders are 1-6,5-2,3-4 i hope this is understandable , and helps you mate !

someone else may have an easier way to do it ,this is just the way ive done it for years .

          cheers chris. 

[zedevan]

yeah thats understandable thanks chris, took me a while to work out what tdc stood for (top dead centre?) lol, but should hopefully do it this weekend so the cars back in action as driving it atm sounds awful!

 

what would make it go so bad so fast? or it doesn't take much?

[luke_mcmahon85]

do the adjustment hot, and if it takes you a while, which it might, given it's your first time, just put the valve cover back on and run the engine again, then do the others.

 

also, sometimes the locknuts are difficult to undo with a crescent wrench, and a torque wrench, or wratchet with a 'crows foot' attachment is very handy

 

detailed instructions are here: http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1803105&uid=786489

 

the crowsfoot thing is a bugger to find, i ended up finding a set on, but you really only need the 17mm, if you want to borrow one let me know

[zedevan]

thanks for the offer luke, hopefully my toolbox (neighbours, lol) have some, they seem to have double of everything so far.

 

those instructions seem pretty clear, although my dads suggested method is to adjust them "very slowly" while the engine is running....bad idea??

[maddos]

Bad idea unless you like the idea of oil going everwhere.

[luke_mcmahon85]

hahaha, definately DON'T do it with the engine running!

[zedevan]

yeah, i think the car he's previously done it in didn't have a very sophisicated oil delivery system....

[NZeder]

The problem with doing them hot - is by the time you finish the last few are no longer hot = they will be wrong. In the past I have always done it using the cold setting and with the engine cold. I have done them once hot and the trick is get it hot, then if you have asbestos fingers/hands get stuck in, if not use gloves to remove all the retaining springs at once - then quickly loosen all the adjustment nuts (17mm locking and 14mm for the height adjustment) then with your big socket on the front pulley get the engine to TDC and work your way through the adjustments as stated above as quick as you can before the everything cools down. Ideally you should torque the locking nuts which means using a crow foot spanner the real trick is keeping the setting when doing up the locking nut as it will move if you are not very careful and it is for this reason I do them cold with the cold settings as I have to keep going back to the doing it again as it moves when I go to lock it off.

[luke_mcmahon85]

i hold the 14mm crestent wrench in place while i tighten with the 17mm crowsfoot w/torque wrench...it's not that hard, and you only have to get it tight enough so that the 14mm nut stays put, then you can torque the 17mm all the way down. also, i don't remove the retaining springs. but yes, it does get tricky when it's hot so maybe you're best doing them cold first, although afterwards, i would then run the engine to operating temp and then check the clearances against the hot settings

[zedevan]

thanks heaps for the advice guys! i was thinking/assuming that the difference between hot and cold clearances were just the metal changing size with the heat itself? therefore getting it accurate to the cold sizes makes sense to me, specially since i should prob pull off the cover and see what it all looks like so i atleast kind of know what i'm doing when its hot!

 

so the cold setting will produce atleast a semi accurate hot setting? do you bother going back and checking them when hot nzeder? either way its going to be had for me to make it worse than it currently is, i have to say though i'm impressed with how well this motor has survived the last 3 yrs and 50,000kms+ of abuse with not much love at all, as the only thing thats been done is one oil change...i'm asking for trouble, i know (we need that devil smile face again)

 

 

[zedevan]

I've adjust the clearances and double checked them about 4 times now, as there is still a tapping noise! When i start the car it idels fine, and there is no tapping noise, once its revved above 2000rpm the tapping starts and continues at idel for about a minute then its gone.  I thought mayb this was an oil problem so i've cleaned the oil distributer thing and its working fine.

 

I'm thinking mayb one of the valves isn't sealing properally? although from what i've read if this is the case it should put out a fair bit of black smoke when started which doesn't appear to be the case.

 

Any suggestions? as i'd really like to take it on the cruise tomorrow, and am tempted to just take it as it is...bad idea?

[C.A.R.]

Take it as it is Evan - we can have a listen/look at it on the cruise

I highly doubt it will cause any damage...

[zedevan]

got a call from the mechanic who said he can't put his finger on if its a valve seat or a cracked piston, as all cylinders show compression when its on running, but when its running one of the cylinders has no compression

 

he suggested that i take it back home, and take the head off and check the valves and replace one if thats the problem (as its apparently not that hard), and if thats not that then to pull the motor for another one. so this sounds like a good idea to me...

[NZeder]

Could be a blown head gasket but not around a water gallery but to the outside of the head/block = no compression on that cylinder and when it warms up it is puff'n out that = noice? I am guessing

[pauly_adams]

this is going to sound strange i had the exact same problem it ended up being a leak in my exaust gasket. it was leaking causing it to make the noise this is gunna sound dogy but go out and purchase some locktite gasket selastic and go nuts take off your exauset and smear it all over the gasket and put your exaust back on while the selastic is still wet and then tighten it down smear more around the edges of the exaust and let it dry i would say your problem will go also stops real fumy smell when you have your window down going over 80km/h

 

cheers pauly

[zedevan]

kath and kim's influence there nzeder?

 

thanks for the suggestions they all sound plausible, but the guys at the cruise meet point will be able to tell u it sounds like a very mechanical noise and its even louder now so if its exhaust i'll be amazed.  some more to the story of noises of the engine is above 3000rpm under load it would make a bit of a noise, but if i stopped accelerating then started again it wouldn't b there, for some reason i assumed it was something to do with the carbs?

 

i dont know if i'll bother pulling off the head or not, as at this stage i can still drive it places instead of towing it lol, so i am going to look into actully doing what i've wanted to do with the car, just without the space to do it or the money needed either lol (did i mention time?), so might b off the road for awhile for a good tidy up but i'll wait and see

[tattoo_ink]

hey evan, maybe give her an oil change. i thought i read a post of yours recently sayin itd been a while is all ! lol thin shity oil could do that .

[zedevan]

thanks for the tip, but its now gone beyond that i think as one cylinder has no compression when running which they figure is a cracked piston as when its not running it shows compression, however i dont know how this could b causing the noise!

 

the last oil change wasn't that long ago, like 7months or so and not all that many kms, it just went quite a long time without one before that. i changed the gearbox oil at the same time

 

since i dont have a whole lot of money saved up does anyone want 240z carbs, a 260z 2 seater gearbox and a 3.7 ratio open diff when i pull them off my car anytime in the next year? last time i talked to gav he had dibs on the gearbox, looking for offers over $500 for each...