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Posted

Right, what I suggest is a list of all your engine power enhancing mods plus mention the aim of such mods ie what the car is used for and what performance characteristics you were after. Me first :)

 

My engine is a JDM VG30DET which is basically the same as the Z32 engine but with one turbo, the 280ZX is mainly used for sprints. Its performance affecting specs are - custom rear entry upper plenum with single 90mm throttle body, Tomei Poncams, Tomei cam wheels, GTX3582R divided housing turbo, Tial wastegate, custom 3.5" dump with 3" exhaust and two Lakeside friendly mufflers, Motec M600 ECU, M&W CDI ignition with Mercury coils. The standard exhaust manifolds are retained.

 

The whole idea of the setup and particularly the turbo was to have a useable 3000rpm power band orientated towards controllable but agressive corner exit acceleration, the top line by itself is irrelevant. There remain only a couple of problems, the Tial wastegate needs a slightly heavier spring so the engine can run more boost which the turbo is entirely capable of, eg 300whp, 18psi boost @ 4000rpm previously. The second is streetability. With road tyres wheelspin around town is difficult to always avoid even at relatively low rpm, there is no traction control but a low power street map will be added which will be switched from inside the cabin.

 

Notes on the dyno sheet below. 4000rpm - boost 13psi, 230hp. 7000rpm - boost 17psi, 421hp. The engine is easily capable of handling over 20psi boost which it looks like the turbo will deliver but let's do some track time first, the car is probably faster than I am as it is.

 

Torque curve starts off highest of the two curves.

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Posted

can i suggest people PM 260DET or someone else in this thread to keep them all in one post with the specs of the car. Its all just indicative anyway if people get all precious they can get over it. ;D ;D

Posted

Anyone can put a sheet up, just that the powers that be don't want it to turn into a pissing match.

Here's my old Clubby, the current Clubby should be making around the same, minus a bit for the auto.

 

1.jpg

 

And I've just found out there is a Summernats type event being held here in Gladstone at Benaraby Speedway (drag strip) which I am hoping to enter my Zed in providing I get a new clutch fitted. Drags, go to who, motokahna, show and shine, dyno comp. Should be good.

 

 

 

Posted

 

Here's my RB26 built by the guys at Racepace Motorsport, Garrett -7 turbos, standard cams with adjustable cam gears, Autronic ECU and CDI running 18psi boost on 98 octane fuel with more to come if I choose to chase it.

Gearing on chart is 30Kph/1000rpm so run stopped at 7500rpm.

Engine built for circuit racing, super response broad flat torque curve.

 

cheers,

Sinisha

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Posted

Here's my RB26 built by the guys at Racepace Motorsport, Garrett -7 turbos, standard cams with adjustable cam gears, Autronic ECU and CDI running 18psi boost on 98 octane fuel with more to come if I choose to chase it.

Gearing on chart is 30Kph/1000rpm so run stopped at 7500rpm.

Engine built for circuit racing, super response broad flat torque curve.

 

cheers,

Sinisha

 

What's that torque measurement S? Metric is usually done in Nm which that (n?) is not.

Posted

yer its hard to get a torque reading on a chaise dyno as the gear box and diff change the reading but that reading is very flat for a 26 very nice and its a very fast car at the track

Posted

Looks like it's all full on turbo babies hete!

 

Whers the good 'ol atmo L boys!

 

I just mine are all usefull where i want them to be usefull.

 

The first question i always ask the dyno operator is, " where is peak torque, where does it start to be usable, and where does it peter off"

 

Peak rpm high HP is just bragging rights ,cbf!

Posted

Thats right Jas, I was able to use my dyno curve to find my power band, which was from peak torque at 4500rpm to peak power at 5500rpm. Not much point revving it to 6000-6500 if its not making any more power.

Posted

260zDynoSheet.jpg

 

L28

 

2,800cc  (40 thou bore), mild cam (I mean only slightly bigger than stock, mild), 45mm weber's, extractors, shaved head and block

 

 

Just to clarify, the faint line was the before extractors result, solid line post extractors. And I know it says flywheel hp, but I'm assured it's actually hub hp, the correction was set to 1, ie disabled.

 

This car is the epitome of compromise: It's a fast road car and must be driven on the road, which means it has to idle, it gets run in motorkhana's and hill climb's which means it has to have down low down power and torque and it gets run at the track where it's all about the 5,000-7,500 rpm power.

 

This motor did 20,000km combined driving over 5-6 years where it was double entered in every event by my dad and myself, traveled across the nullabor twice and was driven to and from the track every time (cept when I blew 5 gearboxes in 5 events, then it was towed home....) So, whilst there is plenty more power if I wanted to drop in a larger cam, I'm VERY happy with the compromise and hence have just rebuilt it with the same gear (cept new harmonic balancer, clutch, flywheel and bolts/studs - non HP changing mods) and don't plan to change much.

Posted

Looks like it's all full on turbo babies hete!

 

Whers the good 'ol atmo L boys!

 

I just mine are all usefull where i want them to be usefull.

 

The first question i always ask the dyno operator is, " where is peak torque, where does it start to be usable, and where does it peter off"

 

Peak rpm high HP is just bragging rights ,cbf!

 

Keenly waiting to see all your dyno sheets Jason including the 280Z's, get your finger out :)

 

High HP is just for bragging rights?!? By itself it is but providing the engine has a useable power band then high HP is good surely. After all you are always complaining about turbo car power  :P

Posted

hehhe you blokes you need to drive a turbo rota and you wont say they have no torque  :D

 

But will it tow a 18 foot Viscount....

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Posted

hehhe you blokes you need to drive a turbo rota and you wont say they have no torque  :D

 

Yar... I keep hearing people say rotary's are not good for torque but my 13B TT is great. I know why Mazda decided on the Twin Turbo set up, it gives plenty of low down torque and then kicks over to the bigger turbo later. Pretty much like driving an NA car. Plus once you get higher in the rev range it simply doesn't matter.

 

Sure compared to the L-series it has less torque (or feels that way), but it doesn't run out of puff like the L-series does.

 

A 20B would produce enough torque surely? I mean I wouldn't tow a boat, but I wouldn't do it in a Z either :).

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