Groundhog

Great help from Alan. Still on the hunt for the locking plate. If need be I can make one but prefer original if possible.

There are three layers to the sills in the dogleg area. Take a deep breath and be ready for a rusty mess when you cut away the dogleg. I,d recommend buying complete L&R sills and make the decision on how much of the sill you use when you open it up. The door frame behind the skin will need work too so it is worthwhile seeing if a better door will mean skin only versus frame repair and skin. Keep the pics coming.

PM,d

I have an incomplete distributor. I,m after the E12-80 ignition module for a 280 ZX series 2 naturally aspirated engine distributor . I'll consider buying whole or part distributor as long as the ignition module is working. Let me know what you have by PM.

I have a 280ZX Series 2 electronic distributor that I am chasing a few parts for. Is it still possible to buy a reluctor and bushing locally? From what I can see on EBay it is possible to buy an ignition unit or change to a GM one. I am well capable of overhauling it myself provided I can get the parts. https://www.google.com.au/search?q=280ZX+distributor+reluctor&client=firefox-b&tbm=isch&imgil=uT1qa_0UMoMdwM%253A%253BM2YSwSCQc8lz_M%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.oreillyauto.com%25252Fsite%25252Fc%25252Fsearch%25252FDistributor%2525252BReluctor%25252F02804%25252FC0334.oap%25253Fyear%2525253D1979%25252526make%2525253DNissan%25252526model%2525253D280ZX%25252526vi%2525253D1209293&source=iu&pf=m&fir=uT1qa_0UMoMdwM%253A%252CM2YSwSCQc8lz_M%252C_&usg=__5EJ-w2UnAm4FbrurnUsZ0kd5wn4%3D&biw=1920&bih=947&ved=0ahUKEwics_2xqazNAhVBE5QKHeorBGYQyjcIUA&ei=a31iV9zRFcGm0ATq15CwBg#imgrc=uT1qa_0UMoMdwM%3A

Great to see this car go to an owner who is using it for what it was built for. The rest of us can only dream about it and look on with admiration. Thanks for posting the videos. Really enjoyed every turn.

I'm learning fast that the lack of a seam where the two panels join is a sure fire indicator of bog work. Has anyone tried the fiberglass panels for this area. 2+2 Valance below.

Where sre you located?

Looking for a left and right tailight surround molding to suit a 260Z 2+2 like the photo. PM me if you can help. Edit Parts found. Thankyou all

Mine has ended up the same colour as the car and I'd like to return it to the correct colour. Is there a pressure pack colour that is close?

Was the grille always the same colour as the car, on all models?

Piggy backing on this thread. Have an early 260Z 2+2 driver side glass, winder etc Glass should fit all 2+2 but internals are a little different. Give away. Glass packaged and sent. No longer available!!

I have seen a sun roof repair on a 240Z that used a section out of a 280ZX roof as a donor. Not a perfect match but a good source of a curved replacement section to begin with. I was luck enough to get a donor roof for mine.

Just reassembling the console after the work. Here are some photos of the console lid which I rebuilt with Permapoxy for the outside filler, and the inside posts which I turned up out of some hardwood and Araldited into place. I used some self tappers to hold them through the lid, then removed the screws and backfilled the holes. All in all it turned out OK. I redid the writing on the Choke and Rear Demister lettering with some White nail polish. I applied it to an old switch first to trial it. Put too much on then polished off the excess to leave a shiny lens and white lettering. Quick simple, cheap.

The recovery of the panel is almost complete. I managed to flatten it out again and have fiberglassed it from behind to give it strength and water resistance. Here it is flat. And Fiberglassed from behind. I just need to smooth the edges before I replace the end fittings and recover it.

I think the dash replacement/wrecker code is probably the closest answer and as Gilltech says, you gotta have trim plate and windscreen out to writh this on. It certainly is not some wonderful one-off special or collectable car part.

Anybody got any ideas what this code means? It's got me a little puzzled as I thought the cars were made in Japan? Is this a local manufacturing mark? The car doesn't appear to have had any repairs here so I doubt if it is a crash repair mark.

I have a set of both metric and SAE die nuts for cleaning up the threads before and after plating. They sometimes come back with some fur on them. I'd also suggest that you check the heads of your bolts and file off any burrs and damage before you send them to the plater's. Probably been mentioned before about the type of plating metal and colour. IF you are a going to the effort of retaining original fasteners by getting them plated then make sure you are getting the right colour/finish. I assume you are going for zinc gold passivate for bolts?

Interesting post for a Patrol, that has some options available to this model. I was hoping that there was something like this for Z's also. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-1981-DATSUN-PATROL-MOTOR-CAR-ACCESSORIES-Advertisement-/111064991265?hash=item19dbfd4621:g:9e4AAOxyqKVRgbil

OK. I've answered my own question. From the old roof and the shape of the rear light roof strut I could see the panel was meant to be curved on one side. I tried to make a replacement out of 3 mm Kraftwood by soaking in water and bending to suit but it came out weak and out of shape. I reasoned that if the old panel was put out of shape by water, why not try and use water to put it back into shape. I soaked the lower part that was meant to be flat in water for 1/2 hr Then placed it on a flat surface with weights to level out the bumps. It has returned to its "proper" shape and when totally dry I plan to coat the back with some fiberglass resin to keep it's proper shape. I'm quite pleased with being able to reclaim this original piece as it was in a horrible shape to begin with. The thin foam coating will be replaced with the 2mm floor underlay foam recommended in another post.

Still working on the console lid rebuilding the screw posts and filling the dents on the outside. In the meantime I thought I'd reinforce the centre console before I repaint it. The console is hanging from some straps to keep it level while the glue sets. I used some thin gauge galvanised sheet I had lying around and used the screw posts on the underside to help locate it. Glue is Super Strength Araldite. I'll add a photo for the other side when I glue it. I plan to make a separate bracket to go on the tunnel for the choke lever so it's not connected to the console. [/ URL]

It always intrigues me when I see cars advertised as having this and that options with their car that makes them more unique. I'd be interested to know, apart from colour and trim options, what was really available to the car buyer back in the 70's? I'm learning fast and know that simple things like steering wheel type, console lid, wheel types,2+2 rear seat handle, and vinyl hood were some offered. For example, was the radio a standard fixture or could you specify an upgraded radio like a stereo or pushbutton type? Does anyone have any old brochures or paperwork to dispel the myths? I've found some valuable leads in spare parts manuals, but what was offered in USA and Europe may not have been offered here.

If anybody can use sections of this 2+2 roof frame they are welcome to it. I have kept it to match the rear light panel trim curve. The rear hatch hinge has been repaired previously. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/14078-hide-my-sunroof/ Note the rust in the rear hatch hinge section where it joins the gutter rail section. There was some rubber compond and no paint on this joint which is a dead cert for rusting out. The front windscreen channel sections are probably the most useful part if you need to repair this.

Bye bye rusty old roof courtesy of Webasto!. I should have trusted my instincts when I bought the car and the carpet smelled musty. Being repaired by a panel shop old school panel beater as I had one shot at getting the roof repairs right, and I didnt trust myself for this. Still, I'm happy with the repair progress so far as it allowed for rust prevention underneath and the work is happening fast. A couple of work in progress photos. The donor roof. I only noticed once it had been unpicked and removed that the rear hatch hinges had been repaired previously. Note the bog and filler in the top corner. The donor roof needed repairs here also so it looks bad atm. Will be tidied up some more.

Came across this website maintained by the Datsun 1200 club. It's a useful resource for see what other models of Hitachi Datsun radios were made, along with the wiring and photos. A credit to whoever compiled the information. http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Radio