Champ54

Hi Dave, just for the curiosity sake do you know what size they are on the race car. 45DCOE or 40 DCOE and what size jets and chokes. the ones I have a 45DCOE with 36 chokes and I thik they may have been a bit large for the basically stock (except for the flat top pistons) L28 so that may bave been contributing to the tuning difficulties. The 3 x 40DCOE genuine Webers are perfect.

Hi everyone. Thanks for all the suggestions. I finally bit the bullet and bought 3 new 40 DCOE Genuine Webers and they work just great. Got them tuned in very easily. Also I may have discovered some of the problems with the JASF junk. 1. the throttle stops were very poorly made and required slight modification to get the butterflies to close fully. 2. these carbs have 5 progression holes and when the butterflies are fully closed 1 progression hole is still fully exposed. I didn't try plugging it up but that possibly would have helped.With the poorly made throttle stops 1 1/2 progression holes are exposed. 3. I think the 45mm with 36mm chokes may be a bit large for my basically standard L28 4. In one carb the throttle pump jet in one side was not working. Switched it to the other side where it worked so the blockagewas not in the jet but somewhere else in the carb possibly the casting.I didn't investigate further. Thanks again for everyones tips. The L28 is now purring like a kitten.

Yes, I totally agree. Thats why I've now ordered a set of new genuine Webers. I also found that 1 of the accelerator pump jets was not working. Pulled everything apart no visible contamination. Swapped the jet to the other side but the first side still not working. Seems to be a blockage within the casting. Definately not the jet itself.

Unfortunately no. I bought these in 2015 and shortly after I suffered an illness that prevented me from doing anything on the car for several years. I spent a few years in and out of hospitals. I thought what I was getting was at the time was the genuine Weber carbs but it was only in 2020 that I was well enough and able to resume work on the vehicle and then realized that what I had was the cheap chinese knock offs. I tried contacting the company that sold them (and they still do) but they just ignored me. Got no reply at all. I am inclined to agree with the post from 260DET that I should just junk them and bite the bullet and buy genuine. The manifold I have should be OK as it is a Redline although the linkages do leave a bit to be desired.

Thanks again everyone for the suggestions and I wish I could post photos but unfortunately we cant. These carbs came with 5 progression holes (lord only knows why) and with the throttle butterflies fully closed the brass disc is covering the the second and 1/2 the 3rd hole. the first and second holes are small holes and the 3rd is the larger hole and the 4th and 5th are smaller holes. I'm beginning to think that these are the problem and maybe letting too much fuel through.

Hi guys, thanks for the assistance. I do have the linkages disconnected. The readings on the balance meter have all 3 carbs at around 8 which I think may be too high. I have tested thoroughly for vacuum leaks spraying all the connections and joints with carbs cleaner. No change. Also tried with the vacuum advance disconnected and connected. No change. I think the idling at around 1850 rpm causes issues with both vacuum and mechanical advance but I cannot get it any lower.

Thanks for the reply and the suggestions. These carbs came with 5 progression holes. ( lord only knows why)I've had the butterfly plates fully closed and have been creeping them open by 1/4 turns on the adjustment screw but I'll try your suggestion and see what happens. we have also set the mixture using a Gunson colourtune spark plug. Colourtune plugs have a clear glass window around the ceramic so you can see the colour of the flame inside the cylinder. Excellent invention. A yellow flame indicates mixture is too rich, blue flame indicates correct mixture, and whitish blue flame mixture is too lean. According to colourtune If the flame is Whiteish blue misfiring may occur. When I adjusted all the mixture screw to get a nice blue flame it improved substantially but still kept popping some. In my L28 the flame is a nice blue colour. Tried adjusting the mixture to both excess rich and excess lean but the best results seem to be with the blue flame but still getting the popping back in the carbs. Nothing seens to correct the high idle. Thanks.

Hi Everyone, Has anyone here had any first hand experience with the Chinese Knock Off Weber 45 DCOE carbs. I would like to hear from someone who has them fitted to a 260Z L28 engine. Preferably anyone who has them running well. I have a set on my L28 but they will not idle correctly. This is a fully reconditioned L28 with a 60 thou overbore. Standard cam, reconditioned N42 standard head head and block. Flat top pistons. All new timing chain, gears, guides, and tensioner. Set on position 1. 1. I have checked and rechecked the timing several times and it is absolutely correct. Currently set at 12 degrees advance. 2. Checked and rechecked the valve clearances and they are absolutely correct as per the book. 3. New points correctly set. New condenser. 4. Mixture set using a Colourtune spark Plug (nice blue flames in the chamber) 5. Re-Jetted the idle jets from 55F8 to 50F8. Made slight improvement but still wont idle below 1850 rpm. This is with the butterflies fully closed. 6.Some backfiring through the carbys. Re-jeting improved this but not fully sorted. 7. Engine starts dieseling when ignition switched off. 8. Fuel pump is Carter P4070. Fuel Regulator set at 2.5 psi. Any more and the carbs flood. I've tried to check the actual pressure but it will not read on the 0-15 psi gauge. Is running a fuel return line to the tank. 9. Float levels are set at 12mm. Checked and rechecked. If anyone can suggest what else I can try short of chucking the JASF Weber knock offs and fitting genuine Webers help would be greatly appreciated. Best Regardsw, Champ 54

Hi, if you still have the Z auto I may be able to do something with it if you want to give it away. Don't know if I can get parts to rebuild it is the only problem. I'm in Crows Nest neat Toowoomba but I'll be in Brisbane on Friday. Best regards, Champ54

Hi all, has anyone here had actual practical experience with the Chinese 45DCOE side draft carburettors. I would like to connect with anyone that has actual practical experience with these units to find out how well they work or don't work, tuning problems, etc. particularly in relation to Z cars. Not really interested in hearsay but actual practical experience. There is very little information regarding these units available. I have seen 1 short video indicating that they flood easily but no continuation video to see if the problem was cured. I have also heard of people who knew someone that had a friend that knew someone that tried them but no genuine direct information. Best regards, Champ54

Hi All, I have a collection of 260Z 2+2 parts for sale. 2 x 260Z Radiators $150 each, L26 engine mostly stripped down but all there $450, Oil pump $75, RH front guard (has rust on the top and lower section. I have a Rare Spares rust repair panel for the lower section, $150, LH front guard has rust in lower section, also has panel damage on the top behind the headlight but is repairable $150, 2 x 260Z headlight rims in good condition $75 each, 2 x front seats not in bad condition but probable best to get redone $150 each, 1 rear seat back and lower sections $150, steering column $150 (SOLD), R200 Differential ( from a 1975 auto) looks OK but I'm not sure of the overall condition $350, tail shaft $100, 4 x kidney mags in good condition with good tyres, $350.Headlight buckets LH & RH $75 each. 2+2 hatch back door (no glass) $250 , Require the buyer to collect. Thanks for looking.

Hi, I have 3 new FAJS (Chinese Weber knock offs) that I am no longer going to use. I will sell them for $350.00 each if his will help. You would need to get a manifold and linkages. The jetting is: mains 145 emulsion tubes F16 idle jets 55F8 Needle and Seat 2.00 i bought these about 2 years ago to use on my Datsun 260Z. I thought they were the genuine Webers. Due to a medical problem I had to put my project on hold and have only recently been able to get started on it again. After I realised they are the JAFS 45DCOE carburettors I have decided to replace them. Best regards, Barry Sharp bsharp05@outlook.com

Hi Everyone, Does anyone know if there is a Queensland based company that can make a new wiring harness for a 1974 260Z 2+2 with Airconditioning. I have tried to get information from a couple of Victorian businesses but they never seem to respond to their web site enquiry forms. I have found that most companies that have these enquiry forms on their web sites never respond to them. I could actually make it myself but I was hoping to avoid the work. Barry

Thanks for the suggestions and I have been in touch with most of these companies regarding the Chrome Plating of plastic parts. The costs are so high which is why I started investigating a DIY system. Actually, the original theme of my post was to see if anybody had tried DIY chrome plating on plastic. I can get excellent results on metal parts but as yet I cannot duplicate these results on plastic parts. The main thing is to get a good quality binding conductive base followed by copper plating, then, nickel, then the chrome. Caswell have their Copy Chrome (which is what I am using) that is primarily cobalt, but they do have a triple chrome system as well. The main problem is that the base coats they offer, copper conductive paint, and Silvaspray are extremely expensive. Would be OK if they worked but the copper is about $80 for 250 mls and the Silvaspray is about $475 for 250 mls so either way it cost big dollars to re-chrome the tail light surrounds. I have tried the copper conductive paint but I found that it has almost no adhesion qualities and when you plate the copper over the paint it just peels off so it does not work in the way they claim. The Silvaspray might work but it is just too expensive to take the chance. What I was hoping to find was someone that had tried this and found a cheaper conductive base coat that works. I am getting excellent results with the zinc plating. See the attached photo of the Hitachi carburettors. I did these just as a trial as I am actually using Webbers on my car but I wanted to see what sort of results I could get from the zinc. Barry

Thanks. I need 260Z surrounds. It seems that no matter what they are extremely expensive to repair or replace.

Thanks Peter, Do you have a URL for the repro tail light surrounds?

Thanks, I tried them. They quoted $200 + GST each to do the tail light surrounds. I have found several other places that will chrome plate plastic but the costs are off the planet. I have been quoted $280 + GST each by 2 other different places to re-chrome the tail light surrounds. When you take into consideration the bumper services generally only charge around $450.00 to re-chrome a whole bumper bar the prices quoted to re-chrome the small plastic surrounds for the 260Z tail lights is way over the top.

Before I sold my engineering business 4 1/2 years ago we used to get large quantities of bits zinc plated in Brisbane. They would only do silver zinc. Excellent work but on occasions they did loose parts. In some cases I think they left them in the acid wash too long and they dissolved. I have actually fitted 3 45mm DCOE Webbers to my vehicle but I am rebuilding the Hitachi's just for the experience of doing the zinc plating. I'll probably offer them up for sale when they are done.

Hi Everyone, Here is a few samples of the Chrome on steel, silver zinc and yellow zinc. Unfortunately I don't have before photos of most bits. The sun visor stems are my first attempt at chrome plating. They were very rusted before I started.They were sandblasted, wire brushed, then buffed before being plated. I'm very happy with the result although I think I can improve on it. I think I have the zinc plating well under control. I have also had good success with the Copper, nickel, and chrome on steel. I cannot get an acceptable quality level with the chrome on plastic although Caswell maintain it can be done. I find their copper conductive paint has almost no adhesion qualities even when I used a good quality adhesion promoter. After plating it peels off. I have tried a couple of other conductive coating that worked slightly better but still not good enough. Barry